Nickfromwales

Is there any way we can destroy this picture? This immaculate bit of plumbing excellence is giving me an inferiority complex. I'd only just started to go outdoors again, and here the bloody thing is again. Tidy.

Defo some type of 'member'.

Lucky bugger. Unreliable sack-o-shart IMO, and I've been fitting multi-zone systems for decades. This system is completely reliant on the 'perfect house' and anything beyond just sees drop-outs and zones / manifold wiring centres getting ghosted. If I was offered one for free, I'd put it on eBay. Still waiting for Honeywell to respond regarding my clients full refund FFS.

Tea and bacon sandwiches often work wonders

Yup. Weep holes. The bottom of them is open to allow rainwater to escape from the frame where it gets in when it's raining. Paint scratched down to the primer above that cracked weep cap.

Yes. It's perfectly normal standard to brick / clad after the windows go in. This has been going on all over the UK today without ( many ) dramas. Some drama does occur, but that's a % and relative to every single step of your build. You need to be weathertight ASAP, so get the doors and windows fitted and the roof and rain screen on, then you can take a breather with a secure, dry build Have a word with the brickies and state your concerns BEFORE they start work, and then get confirmation off them that they'll be careful and respectful of your new windows and doors etc Should be fine. Or, they'll kill you and make the death look like an accident.

Ignore Capt. Yellowgrout. You won't need to remove them. They go in and stay in, then you move onto the next problem.

They're all making up for inadequacies elsewhere. . Bloody English

I think he mentioned some kind of herb garden in there. I hope it's Rosemary, that's my favourite.

Bad workman......................tools.......................blame.................... 🙄

Bollocks. Of course they come out. Stick to your pi$$ coloured grouting, you.

Strange that nearly every BCO AND warranty provider that I’ve been around over the last 4 years or so gave this lip service at best. Most of those projects were / are well-insulated / airtight dwellings, or PH, and even ZEB, but at that level most BCO’s are just way out of their depth. Written practices aren’t always practiced.

Everything gets better with a few beers. Or just drink enough that you don't feel the cold 👍 Best to line the stomach first of course

If you only need a few days of heat a year it's free!! The revenue and mitigated costs over summer will have made you 'energy rich' and will provide for / contribute towards winter space heating ( if all designed correctly / thoughtfully ). Best not to focus on the bits that cost you, think of what didn't cost you and do the maths properly

A self-builder is more than capable ( most do anyways ) of documenting, with pictures, the methods of construction for the dwelling. Fabric standards etc become irrefutable then, plus the seller would then be able to show statistical data from the solar inverter / electric bills etc and effectively ( and factually ) demonstrate the very low running costs of the property as actual facts / figures. Selling with these credentials should sort the wheat from the chaff. Soon there will be a better clientele, but better builders will need to come first.

Just a word of advice here, to anyone about to plan / undertake such works. Your local water authority will have very particular guidelines and specifications for this type of work to be done to. Don't let your groundworkers assume that the previous job would be a good enough template to go off!! Ask the LWA for their specifications and learn them up front, on behalf of your chosen contractors, then be sure to ask your groundworkers to tender for THOSE specs vs what they think will be 'acceptable'. Garnish them with copies of everything and make sure they've read and understood it exactly. Measure twice, cut once

No good around a door which gets slammed / there's movement around the perimeter of.

I love it when you talk mathy.....

You could get some 1/4" steel plate and stich down both sides of the timber ( to form a steel splint to join the wood sections together ). Would be entirely possible as long as there isnt any issue with the wood. If it were mine, it would be an RSJ all day long. Steel RSJ's are cheap as chips tbh. But not to run under the joint, I'd go the whole run under the timber, end to end. What is the length of the garage from wall to wall?

Peter is correct. 10mm runs should only ever come off 22mm 'main' pipework. 10mm pushfit off 15mm pushfit is 1st year apprentice plumbing. Did you have to give this one a bottle of warm milk every 4 hours? For your build / fabric type I think 9kW is way too low an output. If there NEEDS to be a thermal store, then the ASHP should have been spec'd as a high-temp split. Not the best I'm afraid.

Food’s really nice there.

You always have a push-fit or compression fitting immediately off the waste / trap. Some European stuff have a solvent weld fitting on an adjustable / universal joint but I’m not a fan of those tbh. I only recommend what I’ve been doing, leak free, for nearly 3 decades. McAlpine are ‘industry standard’, but other suppliers may do something different / more pleasing to the eye etc. Impey stuff is bombproof. Order as you need things, unless you have safe, secure storage where these things don’t have to be moved out of people’s way every 5 mins.

Go see Chris in the Swan Inn in Sturmy, and I'll put one behind for you.

Either way around, I do not see how this can compete with a blower and an ear, then smoke to finish up if required. How many times are you supposed to heat the place up? And how, effectively, in a new, partially constructed, building do you heat all the spaces up enough to keep performing this test? How much difference in temp must you create when the temps in and out aren't miles apart? Last clients test, you could hear the air getting sucked through a hole where a screw had been put in and taken out, eg which should have been AT taped over. KISS.