Nickfromwales

The parts about retainers needs to be in writing. Sent is enough, you don't need a reply. Same email needs to state also that the company employing the brickies is responsible for any making good / repairs / replacement ( including all associated losses ) and not the brickie(s) themselves. Include the name of the person and company to which it is addressed.

Visible tundish yes, but then can go into correctly rated ( suitable ) waste pipe for conveyance to the domestic FW network. Most installers do this via waterless traps which do not rely on water to maintain the seal.

I suppose that Nudura will soon start selling more of the XR35 kit as people start to become aware that it is an option which would mitigate downstream laminations ( and the time / cost of doing so ).

An interesting snippet, including the impact of summer overheating and mitigatory cooling ( subsequent ) energy costs. Fails to specifically mention if PV is involved, but does take that into consideration ( given most shitty mass-produced development builds have some token PV to offset laborious and costly insulation programs ) God forbid they should do both How SAP works SAP works by assessing how much energy a dwelling will consume when delivering a defined level of comfort and service provision. The assessment is based on standardised assumptions for occupancy and behaviour. This enables a like-for-like comparison of dwelling performance. Related factors, such as fuel costs and emissions of carbon dioxide (CO2), can be determined from the assessment. SAP quantifies a dwelling’s performance in terms of: energy use per unit floor area a fuel-cost-based energy efficiency rating (the SAP Rating) emissions of CO2 (the Environmental Impact Rating) These indicators of performance are based on estimates of annual energy consumption for the provision of space heating, domestic hot water, lighting and ventilation. Other SAP outputs include: estimate of appliance energy use the potential for overheating in summer the resultant cooling load

I was going to do similar but with some greenhouse tubular heaters, to heat the entire space ( was thinking about inverters etc benefitting too ). Heat pads sound a better ( more targeted ) solution for the batteries, thanks.

Not quite. The panels are only typically "self-cleaning" after 12 degree inclination, eg the rain will do the job. Solar irradiance improves quite significantly after the 12-15 degree mark, so I'd re-think my policies there

It's there, just covered in snots.

You've just described my house and my thoughts tbh. As I've been off-the-chart busy lately I've had to belay my own install. I'm putting 21 panels ( Solarwatt 400w ) on top of the upper garden shed / pergola ( 50/50 at 11m wide x 4m deep / sloping roof to compliment ) and a further 18-21 panels on the gazebo roof ( upper garden gets hammered by the East sun and gazebo same for West ). I think you'll want the same that I plan, which is a hybrid inverter, as this allows the panels and batteries to be seamlessly integrated on the DC side. The DNO then only care about the max kW rating of the inverter as that's the only bit of kit 'visible' as AC connected equipment. My plan is to insulate the shed potion with lots of cheap insulation, but to also plan ahead for cooling it during the summer ( by purging vs fans but not ruling them out as they'd run off excess generation anyways ) and install all of the kit in there, running AC back to the house via a decent sized SWA cable. I plan to have a load of panels to give me a decent amount of winter generation, as solar irradiance levels drop to ( well ) below 25% for the 3 months or more of UK wintertime.

We stayed in a Greene King ( 👎 💩 ) hotel In Halstead a while back where the shower curtain was used when the loo roll ran out. When my colleague complained the staff quickly apologised profusely, took him to directly to his room, and then SWAPPED the curtains over to / from the adjacent ( occupied ) room. Then said "That OK, sir?" We didn't go back there.

In the worst case, possibly, but you'd have the money in your back pocket to pay the rug doctor to come and make it all poop-free. Statistically you're more likely to die crossing the road than going into the air in a flying, fuel filled thermos flask ( aka aeroplane ). I will walk to the shops later, regardless, but I will remember to look both ways before crossing, , because someone recommended how I should / could mitigate against the risks.

More importantly, your thoughts on bacon? Then a new thread on red or brown sauce. 🤔 +1. People are far more considerate when it is coming out of their pockets. "All damages must be paid for". A retainer will sieve out any trades who have zero faith in their own capabilities / actions. Neanderthals will just walk away stating "I'll get back to you with a price". What they mean is "F**k that, I'm off to the next easy job / pushover". This will need effort, and persistence, but if you're as worried as you are then it's time and effort well spent eh?

The DHW cylinder is full of potable water which cannot go anywhere else than the hot water taps / outlets, and that is propelled by cold mains pressure feeding into the cylinder. The heat from the ASHP heats this via a sealed and independent coil. These are two separate bodies of water at two completely different pressures / potentials. What you are likely thinking about doing is achieved by using a buffer tank with multiple tappings, in addition to a DHW cylinder.

In view of never wanting to EVER over-complicate things, I only use the installed WC and modulation of the heating source manufacturer ( eg Panasonic for ASHP which comes ready to roll out of the box ). I only ever consult / provide M&E for folk building to very high spec ( lots of insulation / very airtight / PH or near as damnit etc ) so do not often need to 'go mad' with weather comp as these types of dwellings suffer very little effect from what's going on outside. KISS wins every single time.

The plug'n'play posse are everywhere. TBH it's deliciously simple from their PoV. Just rock up, install like your painting by numbers, get in van, leave. Why would they choose your job over the next plug'n'play one...... There are decent fitters out there and you just need to keep looking, which would be a very wise investment as your ( spare ) time is free, so to speak. My 2 cents is, accept the considerable disruption and get a 40mm waste pipe installed there, go unvented, and then you'll have no niggling worries about pump service / failure / replacement and repairs after damage etc, plus you'll have mains pressurised ( clean / potable quality ) DHW and kick-ass showers. The waste pipe can be done sympathetically by a separate plumber, whom you can work independently with to minimise disruption, and then the plug'n'play massive can do the 'easy' bit with their pre-plumbed 1st year apprentice ethos. Just check these learner drivers won't then have any issues with knowing the class / type of waste pipe used and what class / type of pipe it finally discharges into etc etc ( and they then refuse to G3 it / connect to the new waste pipe . You can just pump of course, still go pre-plumbed, and live with having to periodically purge the pump to see if it's still 'alive'. You can set a reminder to do that, and the G3 service, annually.

Ola. Have you worked out how much more ( additional ) heat you actually need up there to get it to an acceptable level? Could adding skirting heating get you there? Would save a bunch of extra work. If you migrate to rads then could just ditch everything back to the 2x 22mm flow and return and connect the rads directly using only TRV's on each rad for control. If you wish to retain the UFH controller and stats ( do you have 1 stat per room / space up there? ) then you'd simply ditch the TMV on the manifold and install a TRV on each rad. Yes, that's correct. The TRV's would still open up fully to get to their respective set points, and only reduce the flow rate as the room / space is arriving at / has achieved the set temp. Just pipe each rad back to each respective manifold port and then job done.

Ouch.

Swing-check non return valves after the LLH would kill most issues off, but the low volume of water in it ( <15L typically ) may not solve any short-cycling issues. I'd use a 50L or 100L buffer in place of that. I'd then move that to front of house, instead of the last component before the UFH manifolds, so the duct heater / cooler also didn't promote short-cycling eg all of the downstream heating applications benefitted from it. DHW needs to go around the buffer / LLH of course, and not via it. Not a good idea to have no hydraulic separation between the ASHP and the duct heater / cooler as it looks like it's all set up so the heating loads can run independently.

Can you not get a waste pipe ( 32mm or 40mm ) to this location?

@Post and beam If you need a good screeder, my guy will travel. He's very good, and has done screeding over UFH pipes for at least one other member here. That just leaves you to find an UFH installer. PM me if that's of any help and I'll put you in touch with him.

There would be nothing wrong with getting an UFH installer to lay, connect, and then pressure test the pipework, leaving a gauge connected for 'customer confidence', and then an independent screed company follows up with the pour.

Have you opened the mixing valve all the way up and checked if the flow rates perk up then? At low temp settings those types of mixing valves strangle the flow a lot.

Well spotted, eyes like a bloody hawk! Why they did this is beyond me. . Needs to be 22mm, but if up to temp it shouldn't matter that much. From a cold start is where this is most relevant.

Have you asked the ones that do turnkey installations, as per @nod's suggestion?

Just spat my beer out. PMSL x3 🤣

Is there any way we can destroy this picture? This immaculate bit of plumbing excellence is giving me an inferiority complex. I'd only just started to go outdoors again, and here the bloody thing is again. Tidy.