Nickfromwales

You’d do 1 and 4. £20 on it.

Just observe a reasonable bending radius and it’ll be fine. Stopping and starting with fittings causes a snag, so one continuous piece, joints in a perfectly straight section only, if needed, and get a 6mm nylon draw rope in it when you lay it.

Or a downpipe? If it’s a combined sewer that is taking rainwater? If that’s a foul then it should just be going to a local IC. Is this bloke older than Jesus?

I think I’d still want to line these with dabbed and screwed Marmox / Jackoboard (min 10mm) and the wet plaster over those. At the very least I’d want solvent-free gripfill / other similar mastic to attach the leading edge of the above closer to the internal leaf of masonry.

Exposed face fixings or secret nailing?

It’s a bit crap seeing the pipe on the wall, but what stage are you at? Is the pipe no longer able to punch through and come up internally? Why are you having arguments?? You’re paying this goon, so stop arguing and start instructing him! ”Put the pipe here, don’t ask questions. If you can’t do it, I’ll get someone else who can (or will)”. 🤷‍♂️

Yes This 👆 I have an air coil nailer, and for cladding and featheredge it is just so much better. My 1st fix Hitachi just explodes the featheredge if attempting 'hidden fixing' on the leading thinner edge. Coil nailer fires a full round head too vs a clipped head, so offers the benefit of less penetration into the wood.

Singular or plural, squire? 100mm duct is the easiest, as you only need a hockey stick when outside afaik. 2 will come up that with ease.

Ok, so we need cable sizes, eg outside diameter, to comment. What are these cables for?

Then defo the flat metal grille.

Just remember, the system will log every single event, including when it is armed or disarmed. If you forget to arm it and you get burgled, your home contents insurance is often invalidated, the same way your car theft insurance is invalidated if your car is stolen because you left the keys in the ignition. So an alarm can be as much of a liability as not having one. Best to give the illusion of having one and say feck all to your insurance company about it, and make sure it’s not in their small print that IF you get one mid-term that it automatically attaches to your policy, along with the caveats and exclusions. Texecom is the upper end of the lower market, fitted a few for previous self build clients and they've not reported any issues, and seemed decent quality / features vs Accenta etc. I fitted an Accenta in my shed / office / hideout, more for show than anything.

"Trust" ? Water goes down the hole, gravity is your friend I'd be drilling the joists vs top-notching anyways, so the pipe can be lower.

I've fitted the ones with the 'hidden' drain, and I'd say that is way nicer vs a mushroom you step on.

As long as you can show its high temp rated plastic, you can avoid copper. Most modern plastics are suitable, but you need to confirm. 35 & 42mm copper pipe and fittings are hideously expensive.

It’ll likely be prone to cracking. I’d dot & dab it tbh, same then with the reveals, but I’d use insulated boards or Marmox insulated backer boards there, as you may not have much thickness available for insulated PB.

110mm for all the runs through the posi-joists, and if possible run that all the way to the plant room. If that's too big for the final vertical rinse, reduce to 50mm as late as you can. The 3m drop means you’ll need an AAV in the room, a min of 600mm higher than the highest wet entry into the pipe run. Does this drop down near a bedroom?

Last book I read said short intrusions are permissible, but that was when I was revising for my 18th, pre-covid, so that’s only a vague recollection.

Great words, but probably your last ones............. If we don't hear from you ever again, it's been emotional. Social media is mostly folk living a plastic life, presented by liars or paid influencers who consume gullible folk to perpetuate their 'success'. Or 'tossers' as I call them.

Yay! Now I can say I hate the pentagon shaped pile-o-shart. Looking waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay better, praise the fictional person in the sky.

First thing I do is set out with a laser, and advise the client if a few coats of SLC would be preferable. Some say yes, get it level not just flat, others just say "do your best".................... Done a good few with polished porcelain, and I get those like a mirror, but that takes prob twice the time / effort / cost if they want the 'front page of the magazine kitchen'.

Trying to airtight single cables is a PITA, plus the conduit acts as an insulator giving the cable some separation from the insulation. I would not consider this optional, more of a must! Derating for 400mm is OTT btw, but not much cost to go from 4mm to 6mm so may as well, just a non-issue afaic.

I assume he’s running them them in 25mm flexi conduit, not directly sat in the Warmcell? FYI, we’ve done this on every MBC build, conduit and cables through the cellulose, so zero issue to worry about other than weather and airtight sealing.

Get rid of the pointless, expensive, detrimental plastic eggbox...........

I'll put you in touch with @Russell griffiths, he has a Howitzer you can borrow.