Nickfromwales

And then......... "Peckham Spring".

Yup. Defo only needs a single primary pump IMO, and defo better to keep 1x pump per manifold, when over 2 floors and with 2 different values (head and temp).

+1, and will soften the hammer off the WC's and any 1/4 turn taps which 'slam' shut. At 8bar, you defo need a PRedV on the main as that will be causing all kinds of havoc 'behind the scenes'!! Set it at 4bar and the flow will still be stonking. A 3bar PRedV actually strangles the flow quite a bit, so make sure you can define the set pressure. Remember that you need to have water flowing through the PRedV to set it accurately, so leave a tap on somewhere just running a couple of l/p/m whilst you set it.

£55? Cheaper than shoplifting 👍. Get it bought, get it fitted, winner winner chicken dinner 👌

Check with the supplier?

You can have a house acclimatise to the ambient, for a number of days, and the tiles will still feel cold(er) to human skin. The issue is different materials hold heat energy differently, which is why when you sit on a block of EPS during the tea break your arse warms up near instantly. Do the same on a stack of bricks and the heat from said arse will be absorbed and dissipated. No internal floor should need insulation as it's already within the heated envelope, ergo an ambient will be achieved over (x) time, but this is why folk say to install LVT vs tiles, as it's the laws of physics at play here and not how well you've built.

Unless you are going to study the building industry, learn how to make a dwelling airtight, and be on site every single day to manage the trades executing this work, you have NO CHANCE vs a TF build with a guaranteed AT score. Add all that grief (and still loads of) uncertainty, and then redefine "mega cost" please. Go find a general builder who; a) knows what airtight actually means, or b) one that will put your money where his mouth is and offer up a guaranteed AT result of even sub 1.0 ACH.... Let me know how that goes! The facts speak for themselves, and the TF suppliers I have conversation with have diaries which are jam-packed into next year. There are people who can't hang a shelf, and for them it's far less risk to appoint a TF supplier with guaranteed outcome than it is to get a general builder to knock up a masonry shell and hope it turns out OK. TF company will be contracted to produce an end result, builders will just typically 'put something up'. Good luck tying to define in court where they went wrong when your AT score comes back at 3.0 - 5.0ACH and you are stuck with what stands in front of you . I've turned up at many a job where the clients are all smiley faced and overjoyed with progress, only for me to say "WTF is all this mess?" I turned up at one job, the second lot of groundworkers (which replaced the first lot of assholes, all paid up and work was dire) were just starting to cover their work over with pea-gravel, and I said to the clients "none of that complies with B-Regs, tell them to stop now and do it all again". They had been paid £7k in advance and just buggered off when challenged. Current project, we're coming up to £40k worth of 'damages' done and hidden by the builder, he had most of his money up front, was challenged, then.......buggered off. Both clients to date have received £zilch back off either job. There's north of £61k there. See a pattern here? This is nothing to do with the build, or what they're building it with, it's 100% to do with the people you are dealing with. The people who own the company, and it is they who decide how the job goes and it is them you are investing in. Members on here have built with masonry and achieved super-good AT results, but that's the exception and not the rule, as not a lot of people who wish to self-build know anything whatsoever about the construction industry, worrying as that is.

If you ask for someone to make you something bespoke, then you don’t buy it, they’re Donald Ducked. C’mon, it’s been the norm for as long as commerce has been around. Tailored suit? Pay up front. Etc.

I can’t win them all, lol. I used a table saw for the first time, and I made a proper mess at the mid point and end, just through inexperience and that other thing…..wanting to keep my all my fingers and thumbs. That is a big distraction tbh. If it’s a table saw which has a nice big bed and supports the wood then great, but the small square table-top saws are a baptism of fire. For a one off job, and if the OP isn’t using these tools every day, then the track saw will be a great choice imho. If the OP feels confident, then go with the table saw, but I’d recommend spending an hour or 2 running dead stock through it to get some practice in before going at the linings, as it’s pointless going through all this to save money and having to buy new linings as they got chewed by the saw. Particularly difficult to consistently keep the whole length against the blade fence all the way through to completing the cut, AND get it out of the blade before it gets another unwanted shave. I’d not consider this without a competent second pair of hands. Track saw can be clamped and used ‘mono’ so that would be my choice here, based on the OP’s experience.

You keep saying this, and I'll keep disagreeing with you, sorry. The inherent benefits of not using masonry (brick / block etc) is hugely significant, especially if your chosen TF contractor offers a guaranteed airtightness score!! Even more so again, if they're blowing in Warmcell to the walls and roof as this again deletes time, labour, and irregularities in how the product(s) get installed. Also, once you incorporate these key elements into your trajectory the downstream time saving is also massive; there is only electrical & plumbing 1st fix to do before you move immediately to boarding and plastering, in an all but bone-dry dwelling, and most TF will be service battened to accept small bore services. Makes everything a doddle after that tbh, and is very attractive to the hands-on posse / avid DIY'ers.

Is that small - medium concerns, or the larger more recognised companies? If so, who of recent? Genuine question which will be of value here.

If the same rad is going on back on, cut behind the door (300-400mm away from the wall so you can get a pipe slice on, without straining the pipe, and the copper can be cleaned for re-soldering) and then cut again 8" away from the opposite corner, and then the same in the corner opposite that, to completely remove the pipework from the room, (but fully intact), so as to be reinstated. If you are wanting clean pipework, and it'll very likely be painted as not many people want to see solder/copper at joints, just get a flapper disc in the grinder and clean the paint off, prime and paint the majority, and leave 6" away from where the pipes will be re-soldered and paint up later when in situ. I'd then box these in afterwards with the skirting, as suggested, but that's down to personal preference.

That will be zero to do with the pipe IMHO, and everything to do with poor internals of the valve itself. A full-bore isolation vs a horrid Ballofix valve is chalk and cheese. 16mm pipe is plenty if off a combi. I'd only go 22mm if off an UVC etc.

I think most brick & block layers like to string the line through an block through, the same way TF co's and chippy's will leave footers of stud frames fly through the bottoms of each doorway, and then cut them out retrospectively. Pennies in the grand scheme, but pays dividends in getting stuff nice and straight / plumb etc.

That's not apples for apples is is? I think @nod was referring to the instance that we see before us, and in that scenario most prefer to go out as far as is practicable.

Errr, kind of goes for everything and anything tbh. You can buy a saw, but that doesn't make you a carpenter etc.

Tut! 🙄 There are folk who do this on their one-off new build and have just one instance to record / recount, and folk who do this for a living. I do this for a living, and the results always speak for themselves The feedback is from clients who are living with and using the systems, and there is NO better critic than a client, I assure you. If you clip strategically to give some wiggle-room, and decouple the copperwork from the fabric of the build with insulation where it enters, then you'll enjoy silent, issue-free operation. FACT. If you've bought a unit which chugs and shudders. then you chose poorly, sorry, and will defo need the flexi's. They're a product to resolve an issue you created, so once again I impress upon the good people here......"Choose wisely and design problems out, as prevention is cheaper and better than cure(s)". The Stiebel unit is remarkably good, you could make a tower out of playing cards and sit that atop, fire it up, and they'd still be there intact. The Panasonic units aren't far behind in fairness, considering how gob-smackingly good value for money they are!! Both are incredibly 'silent' too. @Thorfun, how's 'life without flexis' to date?

That's my afternoon gone

More chance of ruing them with a table saw tbh. Can you hire / borrow a track saw for the day and get them all out ready for cutting in one go? Remember, you’ll be taking both sides worth of material off the one side, not cutting both sides

Whatever you do, do NOT cut / chisel / plane these linings down!! When you come to install arrow-straight doors to the wavey linings you will kick yourself. Work out what the minimum amount is that needs removing, mark each lining side with this information, remove the lining, cut it down with a track saw (and nothing else) and then refit. As you’ll have taken the minimum amount off, you’ll still have some gaps to fill, but that ‘the norm’. If you are an excellent chippy, you could use an electric plane, but you won’t get straight lines at the beginning and end of the ripp.

Did they show you a copy of this?

Which one(s)?

What are the emitters upstairs?

Crikey, is the ASHP in the next village? Are they on the same floor of the house, or GF & FF?

Oddly my spread asks for the orange stuff. Maybe it's just cheaper than buying glasses.