Nickfromwales

I used 6lb fishing line with a tuft of rockwool and pulled that with a Henry. Shot off 100m of it so fast I nearly lost the end.

It's detailing such as this which will reap the biggest rewards tbh. Remember not to cover the cavity completely, so whatever gap you have for the breathable part of the cold roof void, above the insulation, should be the same at that junction.

Do you really want a woodcrete ICF block under DPM and rising up? EPS is fine, done this before very successfully, but I'm not so sure that's a good idea with WC.

Airtightness is not achieved at the cavity You’re referring to “reducing the draughtiness” of the structure here. Not splitting hairs but there’s a huge difference so just want you to be aware of choices vs remit. To achieve airtightness you need an airtight house, pointless making this exceptional if the house is is bolted to is ‘ok’, so remember the balance of things when investing here. I’d say go blown bonded beads, and fully fill the cavity. Detail the insulation in the roof to overhang the cavity, and those will serve you well.

Sorry, more referring to TF turnkey suppliers, for eg Heb homes have fully installed the stud walls on my current M&E clients home, and now all of these need to be cut back or removed entirely to facilitate downstream works…. 💩😣 Most turnkey companies want to be in / out / paid / gone, so either this is done well by good companies who have thought this through (a-la MBC) or hit & run merchants who don’t really give 2 hoots.

Nope. That’s a wool / PIR frame above, the green OSB is on their cellulose blown frames

To the untrained eye, most will miss that with MBC the (non load-bearing) stud walls are cut down short by the thickness of a 4x2 on flat, so the membrane can be continuous across the ceiling and then the counter-battens can fly through for far better airtightness detailing. 👌

It’s usually at (after) significant building control sign off milestones. Foundation and groundwork’s done, then signed off by BC, inspection by bank, then payout, then structure, then sign off by BC, inspection by bank, then payout then doors and windows, same then 1st fix M&E, same repeat. Your lender will be the only person who can provide definitive detail for this, in line with their own criteria, so don’t go by anything that anyone else tells you

40mm is fine as 2 machines still don’t dump much water out at the same time; unless you run two identical programs on two identical machines at exactly the same time.

Get yourself to any decent paint seller and they’ll mix (colour match) some water based Matt for you. Defo same colour afaic.

The size of the droplets of water depends entirely upon whether we finished plumbing on a Friday afternoon or a Saturday morning lol.

Yup. Whenever we test a whole of house plumbing system in front of clients I shout “OK……switch on the sprinkler system” lol. Gets mixed reactions 🤣

Yup. 100% solid. Are there joints underground? Or a single pipe run? This stuff is crazy hardy, so I’d be shocked if you’ve managed to damage to pipe. Are you testing wet or dry? Best to just connect it to the mains and let the leak show itself.

Ah. Ok. Sorry, I thought it was part of your plan eg to be installed.

Needs an appliance trap / washing machine upstand for the waste outlet.

22mm!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My work here is done lol 🥳

You will have an e-account at Screwfix which they will pull up with your postcode usually. They would take them back without a receipt iirc, my mates a serial ‘returner’ there……. Worst case you’ll get a credit note.

Yup. Quiet afaic, but defo need a good clean before each winter so they run as quietly and efficiently as possible.

Then the circulation pump ramps up / down, so flow through the loops follows suite? Long in-fill house with east (front) / west ends, so I wanted heat from each area (zone) to be in constant equilibrium; to steal heat from one place and distribute it to another. I remain sceptical about how well that would happen with reduced pump potential on the UFH loops at the manifold.

@marshian "Speak now, or forever hold my piece"

Easy tiger, I fitted a LLH to an ASHP (doing UFH only in a passive raft) so the manifold pump was constant flow, to promote a steady rate of circulation through the loops 24/7, which then allowed the modulating pump in the heat pump to be hydraulically separated so that could yo-yo up and down without any issues. Worked a charm. 3rd party service agent visited site last week to service it, and reported that the defrost immersion had never once come on (since commissioned in late 2022). Things can be installed with thought, vs just plonked in to tick a box

Whack away, Jim. The only thing I can fault you on is that the tops of the timbers should have been 'chopped' before installing, so the airflow could be at the top and minimal material was interfering with the membrane. Drill a few holes around 30mm down from the membrane, and 150mm or so wide, and then a couple up each side as close to the membrane (felt?) as you can get WITHOUT damaging it. Then a few careful minutes of chopping out with a nice sharp chisel. IMO it's best here to have an open top to the timbers vs holes in the midrift, so I would cut 'letterboxes' out and have as little against the membrane as is possible.

That’s one of many threads here There’s no way it’s going to be 50% cheaper to run…..