Nickfromwales

The question is, how thick is the screed / constructional slab that sits atop the 180mm PIR? And are the two finished levels matched or are the thresholds slightly raised? That will likely invoke a necessity to install the 100mm, eg so there is an overlap of the Marmox where it meets the PIR (unless my Brewdog Wingman has taken over control of my thoughts).

2021 iirc. I'm not sure what they do with these things nowadays, but I really can't see the benefit of a split unless you need very hot water eg to run existing rads etc.

Yup, if dry screed, nope if liquid.

Found my son in his attic room, wrapped up in a quilt in front of his PC, with the A/C set to 16° ffs…..🤦‍♂️

You need to keep a handle on that, as I’ve all too often seen architects setting fire to my clients money at a terrifying rate of knots. One such architect I had to babysit all the way through from foundation to airtightness, and I was only there for the M&E!! I’d have some conversations about this to keep it in check, as you can have your dream home without a nightmare budget. Plenty of good advice on here.

Is this any help? https://national.homebuildingshow.co.uk/exhibitor-list?_gl=1*nluiv0*_up*MQ..*_gs*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAiAkc28BhB0EiwAM001TQJ8Ytd6ErRY7hplY613HTsR6ei1teruNiXdE05ma7VjOZLoZ0fn1BoCxNYQAvD_BwE&gbraid=0AAAAAD-0KvykclfbMk73XWoN-FvOZJJdl

+ 1

Each piece of glass (referred to in the trade as a unit) can be swapped out in an hour. It’s a dead easy job. Random online grab for a cost calculator. https://sealedunitsonline.co.uk/regular/default_mob.aspx?gclid=cjwkcaiakc28bhb0eiwam001tbuisaorwfyxwzcam8f2frf9yhkbhgbvx51ngwlqrmtnuol16et9vbocdwsqavd_bwe Should be a couple of £hundred supply and fit by a local company.

🤣. 💵🔥👏 💨

Hi and welcome. Sounds like a plan! Great you got permission to do these as replacement dwellings as now you’ll enjoy zero rate VAT Have you built before or are you complete newbies? Please ask loads of (some say stupid) questions as I doubt there actually are any stupid questions with an undertaking such a house build (let alone two ).

One I visited was just beyond what I’d accept in my house, but was in their basement. When firing up from cold it was ‘not quiet’, a bit like a washing machine shivering into life then starting a spin cycle is the best way I can describe it. Lots of buzzing, whirring, and vibrations etc, a Daikin iirc.

What he said.

Hi. Firstly, you’ve left the address on public view, do you want to upload anonymised versions instead? Secondly, are you making the property airtight and are testing it with an aim to get a target result? Eg <1 ACH.

Our opinions on advice to bypass the thermostat on a domestic electric heater are “dissimilar”. ☺️

Sorry to say, that crack will only get bigger. The only solution is a replacement unit. What size is it, and how long has it been in for?

Sorry, this touches a nerve as it’s just a little too open to misadventure imho. What if the stat is there to prevent local overheating of floor covering / other build fabric?

If it’s a decent airtight house with UFH, then during the heating season you’d be ‘on constant’ (long and low) so having a decent slab would be beneficial. I’d recommend around 80mm of liquid Cemfloor, but you could go thinner. B&B floors should be designed so parallel load bearing walls land on a single or (sistered) pair of beams, depending on the type of load etc.

Yikes 😟 If the thermostat is a design feature to prevent the heater itself from ever getting above a certain safe operating temperature, then 🔥. 👎. No bueno.

And the cause of a lot of house fires. Just put a desk fan in the room to ‘waft’ the heated air about the room and that’ll work quite effectively, but as said just get 2 small heaters vs one just overheating the local area to it. FYI I use 2x £19.99 fan heaters in my office which can switch between 1 or 2kW and have stats on board. Almost instant heat, only on when needed, and fill a decent volume of air / space. I doubt you’ll find such a heater, as you ask for, as they’d just be dangerous to use. I wouldn’t want one in my house. Nearest thing would be an infrared bathroom heater which is fixed and up & away from people and combustible things. LINK

I used to use smoke pellets and matches to test gas fires etc, so these may be good for DIY blower testing. Non toxic. https://www.toolstation.com/arctic-hayes-smoke-pellets/p73709?store=W8&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAD-vLcW28_oiBQC-P6TC6ImMppCpz&gclid=CjwKCAiAkc28BhB0EiwAM001TRkm8DqzJjYkdSY0aHk5-WsPiZPc7NWyw9j4RvGd5BcssGMWnV9-rhoCrW0QAvD_BwE

My bad, sorry

That’s like asking how can I go for loads of cost and effort for nothing? Why build airtight then fill it with natural or mechanical ventilation to defeat the efforts and increase the heating requirements….

Yup. Seen it (and have installed it under orders) and I wouldn’t ever entertain bringing such grotty water into my toilets……and never in a million years into my washing machine. WC cisterns go black, even with 3-state filtration, so you’d need to factor in a good UV sterilisation setup to get me to even fill a toilet with it. Fine for watering the garden, but when you need to water the garden the tanks bone dry because there’s no chuffing rain….and when rains abundant you don’t need to water the garden.🤷‍♂️🤦‍♂️. Go figure. Total waste of time and money afaic, and I’d recommend using that for PV / battery or just beer without a second thought. Oh, and as soon as the pump snuffs it your payback year goes to triple digits, and then the second pump will eventually need to be replaced, and so on. Judy cheaper to buy the water when you actually do the maths, after buying the system, installing it, and the constant maintenance & repairs. Oh, and in the summer when the rain buggers off it’s then electro-mechanically filled by the cold mains lol. Then you pay to pump it into the toilets. “Seriously?” 🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Only in a house without MVHR

Have you not considered BeamShield or other insulation block system vs concrete blocks? Light, huge improvement over cold blocks, and a 1 man fit for DIY. Doubt I’d ever do a block and beam floor any other way, just seems madness to make an awfully cold foundation and then pay to cover it with insulation to mitigate