Nickfromwales

Pointless going with a great fabric AT test and then filling the house with poorly sealed, leaky doors and windows..... Cold air infiltration trumps U values all day, every day. "Far better" will still be "poor" vs a proper AT rated unit, unfortunately. Ask the manufacturers for the statistics of the units you are considering, and compare those to say a Rational entry level AT unit to see how much difference there is.

There are few people out there who would integrate an in-roof PV array with a standing seam roof covering. Only true solution is BIPV, which is OK to look at and I guess a reasonable solution. No idea how long these things last though, but I imagine if one snuffs it you'd just stick the replacement one on top of the dead one, if you couldn't get the thing to come off without causing damage / voiding roof warranty. Ground mount is a good option IMHO, but you do need a fairly open plot and a lot of clear landscape around you to make that work. Also, regarding PP, there is a BIG difference between ground mount (the panels laying on the ground) vs putting these on the roof of an outbuilding, so each is a different subject for a different scenario. Outbuildings could be 1.5 storeys and have in/on roof solar on them, without much annoyance to the PP dept for eg, but they may poop the bed over a ground mount?!?

Could just be a “Friday unit”. That simple. Why lose any sleep? Just ask for a free replacement, fit, forget, go to pub. 👌.

This kind of thing, random internet grab, no affiliation / recommendation. https://www.heatflowinstallations.co.uk/floor-milling.html

Running your particular floor / slab ‘ling & low’ means you’ll be fine at prob 25°C max UFH flow temp. These types of homes don’t really know if it’s winter outside, with the only real negative impact being from the MVHR sucking in ice cold air. You’ll be fine, chalk n cheese to what’s being discussed here. @Barry1965 have you tried lifting 1m2 of floor area in the corner of a random room, to see if this is a 50mm topping layer over a rough cast sub slab? That’s what I found in a 60’/70’s bungalow, giving opportunity to put 40mm XPS boards down in tile adhesive and then the overlay could go onto those. If not then I’m with @JohnMo in that you should just nail clip it to the slab and run 24/7 with a much lower flow temp. This is one where there was 180mm or 200mm hollow core concrete deck, then I installed the UFH, and the around 65mm of screed went over the entire area. Then engineered wooden flooring over that (bonded down NOT floating!). You’d have to accept that if you REALLY want UFH then you’ll just have to live with around 25p in the £1 going to Mother Earth. Theres a company who can router out the existing slab and lay the pipe straight into that, which is what I’d do to offset a lot of expensive carpentry and fixtures alterations, perhaps, but you 1000% want to go for tiles not wood or carpet, and have one floor type for the entire area so you get same results per m2 which will make controlling it a bucketload easier. I’d have the UDH tbh, as the heating system is prob high temp rads and costing a fair bit to run anyways, so switching to a good quality heat pump will help (but I’d prob advise you stayed on gas unless you have polar PV and a big battery (to chip in to the overall annual electrical running costs). The heart wants what the heart wants, and sometimes the head will come second place.

Hi. They will be under the 1st year manufacturer warranty, so contact the cylinder supplier and ask for a free replacement. When it arrives, swap them over and job done. Monitor the performance of the replacement, and hopefully there will be no issues moving forward. 👍

I think it will become an ornamental item. lol.

750mm usually, but 900mm is the deepest i have seen requested. Your electrician should be stipulating this......

No problem at all. There are benefits to be had with going with our advice here, some which are not immediately obvious but soon become apparent after opening a dialogue here for experts in their industry to bolster each decision you then go on to invest time and money into, safe in the knowledge that…. ……in the winter you can use them to keep your hands warm 🤣.

God dam-nit. Have you been speaking to my wife?

Amen reverend. 🍻

Obvs should have caveated by saying don’t hang an 80” TV off one fixing lol. 200mm concrete screw for anything crazy. Happy days.

You know to approach Trevor @ cylinders2go for any cylinders, ya?

Easily! You can also rebate the insulation to fit plywood across multiples of them if you were looking to affix between or away from the flanges (where the fixing holes simply don't line up for eg). Exp foam behind the plywood and then fix that to the flanges, leave to cure for 24hrs, then crack on with plaster boarding. Much more flexibility if you make the plywood patch a lot bigger, so when the rooms finished and you think the TV's too high / low etc you have room to manoeuvre

It's staggering just how shite some trades' workmanship and standards are... They just think because they've sweated for the day that it's a good days graft. Good on you for sticking to this and getting the simple measures done to make a job well done, would have been so much easier if they had just given a feck..

Yup +1. Defo need to have those de-rated to say 60a per run vs just isolated x4. Can be the same device, just knock a way out for a 63a MCB in each one, and then you have a switch-fuse isolator. Is this a very big property, eg to warrant 4 CU's?

It's down to the manufacturers installation instructions (MI's), recommendations and guidelines, eg is the moisture thing mentioned in respect of their longevity, and therefore may affect the warranty of the product if you 'stray' away from the MI's? What if the water gets in and then freezes etc?

Who has calculated the condensation risk, and do you have panels which have drainage points to collect and manage the condensate? I would be very cautious about putting the same temp cold (defo not cooled) water through the system that heats the ceilings.... Do you have a design or specification that states the product can cool via these panels? Any product link / info you can post?

Hi. Why go for the expense of SIP's when you could just stick build this with a local builder for less money and far more flexibility? That just seems way OTT imho. Very easy to get this to a similar, or better standard, without the bespoke costs and difficulty in joining these things up / together. There's very little point getting this to a much higher standard then the building it is being joined to, so you may want to rethink and save some money and grief here. A local builder would fly this up, even timber frame with a brick façade, and they'd need very little input from a designer. Does the 40cm mean you would have to step up into this extension, or would that still leave you with a level threshold internally? Any new works that close to the tree will anger the rules & regulations gods, to SE will prob say rip out the existing and start afresh, which is absolutely what I would do vs throwing good money after bad. FWIW I would avoid a ventilated wooden suspended floor like the plague, and instead go for a nice, solid, well-insulated slab

The start and finish points are relatively easy to fix and lock in, it's the deflection along the run that needs a bit of thought, especially as you'll be bumping into these, stepping over, and accidentally kicking them and what not. Depending on ground conditions, in the past I have just sharpened a bit of 2x1 (4-500mm long) and then put a 100mm cross piece on top to make a T shaped chair and then simply smacked these into the ground at diminishing heights for the fall, say 8-900mm apart. Use a string line from invert to invert as a guide and then hammer these into the ground to suit. Lay the pipe on top and lash it down to these chairs so they cant move about. Job done. Have the 1st fitting and the last fitting in place, and go point to point with the string and then chairs. BCO will want to see rest bends with concrete wellies, as per bb regs, same with chambers, but also good to concrete pad around any changes in direction. FYI, you should not have any changes in direction underground where there are any form of solids, unless you can rod from both direction to that change point. I'd say to use the long 5-6m lengths to avoid joints, but whatever you find easiest tbh. Don't fear using joints, these things are piss-easy to make off, and are bombproof when underground (that's where they're designed to be forever at the end of the day).

8.1 kw in a decent home with MVHR is BIG..... you may find it gets you a bit too toasty Is that 8.1 kw to the room?

Why are we using arse-tificial non intelligence people? It just surmises general crap on da web and dishes it up for you, utterly random and completely unreliable / non-robust.

It’s the only trap you can use for discharge as water isn’t ever routinely flowing through it; ergo a wet trap would run dry (evaporation) and fill the room with stench. note: This post was not generated by AI, I used WI instead 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿.

I call it “aye,aye”. None of you lot seen the film iRobot? The end is nigh.

Rebar and concrete pads? Will need something regardless to hold these in place robustly whilst working the insulation into place around these.