Nickfromwales

Yup, agreed, as long as the cable runs aren’t vulnerable to mechanical damage. May still need an RCD at source if so. It’s down to being there and giving it the old ‘electricians eye’ lol. 😜

Defo costly at a glance, but when you factor in the unit costs, simplicity of install, near zero maintenance, huge longevity, almost immediate heat effect to occupants, they make sense overall. The only kick in the nuts here is the installation ‘engineer’ who first did all this didn’t do the maths, hence there is now a cost to ‘put it right’, then it’ll be a good setup eg fit for purpose.

If you’re on talking terms then just pay to have it rendered and lose the fence? There is not a cats chance that the wall is getting re-made or much further improved, let’s be honest…. You’ll use a lot of energy and life force fighting against this, so just look at whether you want top pay for a new fence (eventually, regardless, as that’s a waffle fence and will snuff it) or use that investment to make the wall look as you wish?

I think there’s a couple of perps which are shy of mortar, door looks A1

Heat rises too, and if someone attempts to heat a communal public (open) space, with convection heating or A2A, my point is that the entire space will need to heat up, which will either take forever or be near ineffective; given these places typically have doors swinging open and closed and air changes are hugely adverse for space heating. IR defo the best option, with smaller un its placed more frequently (if designing from scratch), with also the added benefit of 100% efficient and near zero waste from switch on / switch off times.

Then choosing ICF makes you a wise man, just stay away from woodcrete and defo go for EPS! Can you anonymise your plans and upload them so we can pull them apart comment enthusiastically

Probably no good here as they won’t ‘throw’ the heat over distance as the IR ones do; “heat what you hit” etc

Not if that device is only an RCD, it would need an MCB downstream of the RCD so the inrush / overcurrent doesn’t then smoke the RCD.

You’re easy to wind up, lol. ☺️

With the hot return, I would be inclined to change the pump and start there, if you are after a DIY process of elimination. Beware though that Biasi are the cheapest boilers on the market and have never agreed to fit one as the first one I did in a rental never actually made it to the commissioning before it went back to the merchant (in favour of a Baxi). Repairs to these, if you manage to get any robust tech support (I failed here, it was dire) then parts and labour will quickly cost more than the value of the boiler. We had multiple different failures on switch on, with different led lights flashing in different patterns to identify the fault, but even Biasi couldn’t decipher what the boiler was trying to tell us.

There are some other, more recitative ones out there. I think BPC do some but a bit of googling will soon get you there. It’s down to liking what you like, and pics speak a thousand words

I use Ubbink (via CVC Systems Ltd, Oxon) on every single full house MVHR install I do, and it’s great stuff. The only thing I find is that the usually outlets (valves) are a bit utilitarian. I am using a few of the plaster in types where these are in communal / living spaces and need to look a bit ‘nicer’.

A tilers sponge, they’re lightly coarse, and lots of elbow work I’m afraid. Anything more will mark the plaster. What paint did you use? Or is that discussion in another thread already? It may be that the plasterer polished the hell out of the plaster and gave it the undesired mirror finish… If so you’ll need to discuss this before putting paint back into it.

Virgin seem to be less fussy, so I’d say pull a unique 50mm duct in for that, from the house to the boundary. Don’t forget to put a rope in it!

https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/10mm-type-90-22-gauge-staples-pk5000/ It was a cheap B&Q DIY compressor set that I bought to do these types of jobs, and a lot kore to be fair, and came with the stapler. If the job isn’t huge then I’d persevere with screws and washers. Clout nails would be my very last option.

As a potential “prophet”, I would attempt to reach out to people and tell them to get off their uneducated horse and rely on good peoples work ethics, their industry experience of 30+ years, and their zero fail rate. When someone has taken the time and effort to design a system for a client, in good faith, they would hope that they would be rewarded for their efforts….not second-guessed incorrectly and their efforts kicked to the gutter, which is something that happened to me, in another similar instance, where the client decide to retrospectively scrutinise works undertaken (after stating it was working perfectly well) and most annoyingly when they know the square root of fcuk all about plumbing; the reason they sought the services of one in the first place I suspect. IF someone was suitably educated, they would surmise that if 2 Willis heater were installed hydraulically equally, then NO FECKING mixing could occur through the other unit IRRESPECTIVE IF EITHER WERE ON OR OFF. Flow through each unit would occur, as designed, eg equally. If one heater is off, in this scenario, and the other on, then the sum out of the “heater” would be 3kW of heat output. I guess we’re off to the glue factory….

Yup, exactamundo. You can lead a horse to water, but some are just destined to become glue.

Only if the defunct heater is physically disconnected, or else it’ll inevitably heat up from the physical connection of the heated pipework; it’ll just turn into a radiator at that point, no?

One person who used to install these things, back in the day, is now pretty much left without some functioning vertebrae. Sad demise of someone who was entirely invested in this product, and another casualty of SA’s insatiable appetite for success under duress; setting aside the paying public Guinea pigs that is (or “casualties” as I had ultimately decided to refer to them as back then). Zero health and safety considerations from SA, even for their own staff, and zero thought of how these things were to be moved safely from A > B. I remember my dad, who owned a vending machine company, having one of those forklift type stair climbing things to move 6’ tall machines independently. That was over 30 years ago, so the fact that SA happily left staff without these things, post Y2K, is another demonstration of just how profit hungry and utterly disrespectful these owners are. I guess you only become a multi-millionaire by putting yourself first.

I’m glad you clarified, now I can sleep…

On a recent project I just used 1" 8's with small washers and a very long bit holder in the impact, as access was a bit tricky. I've posted on here about stapling up from the underside, again into 22mm P5 Egger, and I did that with an air-powered stapler, and 10mm staples, which worked a charm. More the merrier, and the air stapler made it a quick and easy task.

Is this external or internal? Most flooring suppliers offer a range of aesthetic collars / cover rings in many different colours and sizes. Maybe try looking there? Most are MDF I think, so at the least you'd have to spray them with a lacquer to make them weatherproof. How nice do they need to be?

You'll need to do all the local pipework with compression fittings, which are all very comfortably / easily accessible, and only then would this be practically 'moveable' in the event of it's early failure or......well I can't say service or maintenance as these things USP is supposed to be that they don't need any I would suggest you get some 20mm steel conduit, galvanised, cut it into 450mm long pieces, and just go full out Egyptian with it. Would need these all tight together with no gaps to spread the weight, and not distort the case, but I'd check with SA to see if that would yet again be "a non-standard installation" that would void your warranty You are deluded if you think the SA can be anything other than floor mounted? Even more so in a confined space. It's a genie lift job for something like this, and if it ever fell on top of someone then the are brown bread mate. These things feel as if they are full of dark matter... @Jeremy Harris what say you on these being installed, elevated, in a confined space, in an apartment?

The scientific answer to that, is, I just forget who’s building what and reply here sporadically….lol….but I tend to offer free advice with an assumption that covers the worst case. 20,000+ members on here now, and I am so busy I can just about remember what colour shreddies I am wearing. The 24/7 setback stats can (usually) be set to ‘manual override’ too, which ticks every possible box.

Nice neat install