Nickfromwales

They looked to be a finely oiled machine tbf. Hopefully nobody got burned.

Do they draw constantly, or does the supply come back at night/other time?

You’re getting close to having your muzzle back on again. Off topic section is for you, to be honest we should have just called it Pocsters Folly.

With such a thin particle board worktop, the risk is over tightening the tap and it slowly compressing itself into the surface. Is the tap a standard diameter unit? So a 28-30mm hole give or take?

If the intended patio has a step at the perimeter, then you could just duct that air brick out to meet that. The ACO drain would just stop and start either side of it with the ‘lid’ flying over (continuously) so you don’t see the break.

I’d look at fitting another outlet, and instead of the water running undirected, you’d contain it within a run of down pipe until it’s out and off the flat roof, and only opens to a hopper when below that level (matching the way the existing outlets discharge off the flat roof; only if you’d rather not have untamed water from the original roof adding to what goes across the flat one?

22mm chipboard with thin laminate, or 22mm solid laminate?

Good luck. If you’re literally self building and have good mates for plumbing and sparking, then you may choose to spend more on the plot and then just finish the house to the very bare minimum to get signed off. Then slowly go at it room by room to cross the T’s and dot the I’s, after you’ve moved in. Stick building is a plenty good enough option, but you may want to consider I beams to get you to a superstructure a bit quicker, depends on where you’ll be living during the build of course. A cheap static (for welfare only ) may be a good option, which you defo wouldn’t then hide in.

Fitted lots of Veka in previous renovations / extensions etc. Nothing bad to say about them tbf, and that profile shows quite good seals for a upvc offering.

Respectfully, the SE isn’t a plumber or M&E consultant per-se. The 110mm boss connectors have 3 bosses, one open and 2 blind. The one that takes the bath would be rotated so the open boss is pointing directly at the bath. The one for the shower would be dictated by the shower, as currently you only have an indicative location for where the waste will be I assume? Once that’s established, the basin can be connected as shown, to keep it completely separate (which is the best option), and you just use 2x 45° bends vs an elbow there to smooth the flow.

Congrats. Any planning constraints, or a green light to fill your boots?

There's plenty or rectangular > round adaptors for domestic ventilation, so I'd be more focussed on what external grilles tickle your fancy and then work the problem back from there. If your builders can't stitch-drill a near perfect rectangle then you've got the wrong guys afaic.

Fair do's, you must both feel 10' tall. Any plans for the ass-ends of those joists where they're hanging into the cavity......

and exit it how/where?

Windows isn't something to want to have to revisit, and the AT score is something you should get as good as you absolutely can if installing a decent MVHR unit.

Money well spent, you'd prob spend half that on some BS repair and then never be able to take your eye off it every time you used it.

Waste runs are all drawn with 90 degree changes in direction, but that's the worst possible route. You need to go in arrow straight lines to the nearest 110mm pipe and rectify as you meet that. Nothing wrong with the waste pipe for the basin teeing into the 50mm pipe for the shower btw, just keep the basin run in 50mm until it turns vertically out of the slab, then once above you can convert to 40mm rising to a 40mm bend to accept the basin waste. Install a 32x40 reducer in the outlet of the 40mm elbow and then run a short piece of 32 to the basin trap. Same for the bath, take as straight a line as possible. With all the pipework in 50mm you won't have issues with gurgles etc at the basin when showering, or need any air admittance. Use solvent weld adaptors at the 110mm bosses, vs the types which use a rubber bung. I'd just shutter out the entire area of the shower, slightly oversized, and then you can have all options left available to you. Bath traps do not go into the slab, they are almost always above ground for access/service. Some very deep baths or stone/marble ones are the exception, so please state which bath you'd like and we can help accordingly.

House fires are unpleasant, and that's if you're home to put it out.... Get rid, buy a better one. A molten plug will just allow a catastrophic failure to occur. I bought a used TD and put it in the upstairs play room, and then the smoke detectors started wailing a few days later. Smoke billowing out, but turned out just to be the cap frying. Flung it immediately and went out and bought a brand new bosch after sitting down and considering the consequences of losing everything we own. (expletive deleted) that!!!

What have you tried so far to separate them? Can you get a corner apart?

I’m hesitant to ask, but did you go for a hot return to combat long runs to taps and to alleviate waiting for hot water to arrive?

Ok, so we’ve covered that your SE is on crack, but at least your floor won’t suffer the same way. We can set this lunacy aside now I guess. But I just like to say, after seeing the 100mm substructure, (expletive deleted) me down!!! 😳. Space x has a new home for next launch lol. Right. Back to UFH. Just go on top as going under and then dropping a Titanic amount of steel on top of the pipe is fraught with danger. If the pipe gets damaged you’d have to lift it all out, replace the pipe run, and go again. And repeat.

Not that I know of, I just used 19mm or 25mm depending on whether it was running through voids or in the plant room (all copper in the plant rooms); metal seems to be worse than plastic for condensation.

I'm guessing people don't let you have the microphone at family gatherings?

Sorry, a few beers in. To answer your exact question. In cooling the HP is told to output the lowest temp setting that a particular emitter will require, so for FCU's or AHU's the temp is set as low as 10/11oC, and the HP has zero idea of where this is ending up. From the HP this 'chilled' water goes to the buffer tank. The UFH sucks this water out, mixing it with the grouped return, via an Esbe digital mixer and upstream dedicated PWM pump; mixing required to cap the max cooled flow temp at ~15-16oC (user-engineer definable per situation of course). For the circuit for AHU (in my previous 2 scenarios) the flow from the buffer just gets pumped direct, no need for additional mixing to occur, and job done. There isn't a manifold to speak of, just 2x pump sets (or more), with 1x being blended for UFH, so I guess you'd say that originated from a low loss header created by the plumbing arrangement post buffer. Obligatory manifolds for the UFH loops, but no pump/blender on them with the SE design.

This is where all my crackpot ideas fell face down in the early days tbh. I ended up with Stiebel Eltron ASHP and controls / mixing arrangements etc, as their kit just does this all so utterly seamlessly. Very expensive kit, but when you sit down with self-build newbies and give them all the information, they soon realise what a comprehensive solution these delivered, and how little input as occupants they then had to provide. Just one box on the wall, and you tell it "I want to be x temp", and it does so, irrespective of sun/rain/snow. Combine this with the SE kit having an output that manipulates the MVHR too, to provoke a pre-determined boost when cooling, and the circle is complete. The heat pump division of CVC (Oxon) have worked with me on these projects, turning my visions into reality (with a few intensive debates along the way); I am a stubborn mule of a man and want the best each time. They still answer the phone to me, so all good lol.