Nickfromwales

A very good point. Many heads always better than one Minimum 250mm, MBC is 300mm, but their 140mm mineral wool + PIR IWI option is better on paper; (imho poorer overall in real life though, as it’s quite acoustically transparent).

@sansserif can simply ask them to remove it from their quote, if it is costed remotely and is cheaper elsewhere or better done by a trusted 3rd party; where the preference is to remove ambiguity over the quality / robustness of the work. Other examples are UFH, design and install / manifold / pressure test, groundworks for pipes / ducts etc, and so on; things that some folk prefer to focus on specifically / more intensively, and often that steps beyond the comfort zone of a turnkey contractor or supplier. This is one of my favourite things about MBC and Pro ICF, the ability for me to ‘stick my oar in’ and finesse things on the clients behalf way in advance of the construction phase.

Yikes! Last basement job I was supporting with the design etc needed 90 of them….. but thankfully not as deep as yours. I’d still have a basement and hope you’re undeterred! It’s only money

Mini piles?

Gordon Lewis is tha’ man. If anyone wants his number, ping me a PM.

4 IC’s too many here, if you can run these pipes under the slab however you want? For my current client I simplified 5 IC’s down to…….. 1. Passed BC with flying colours, and had the BCO out today to do a stage inspection, all flying colours. Architects go nuts on these, drainage ‘engineers’ not far behind, but sense / sensibility should prevail. Zero sense appears to have been applied to the above, sorry.

👌👍. As the screws will be PZ2 and these bits are PH2, you’ll need to keep a lot of weight on the impact when you’re sending these home. Should work fine, just test fire a few off to get settled in, and bingo-bango. 👌

Lol. Squeeze the trigger GENTLY!

12 months after breaking ground is fantastic progress, beat-eth ye-self, upp-eth, not-eth. Time / cost / ‘gonna do it all myself’ ethos often guarantees that ‘time’ goes completely out of the window. Value life, get some help, happy family, what’s there not to like? Any room for a house-warming party for 20k+ members? 😵‍💫

A polite note to all: I have said earlier in this thread about direct insults, which will be moderated and removed from public view. Buildhub T&C’s have been updated for this exact reason, and are available to (re)read at everyone’s leisure to ensure that we all function admirably on here. https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/terms/

22mm deck or 18mm deck? If 22mm deck, plus 6mm ply, then you’ve got 4mm before you poke out the other side. My impact drill has 4 setting for speed / torque, so is much more manageable, but if you’re not rushing you’ll be fine. I mark a grid out and go for a minimum of 120 centres, 100mm best practice imho. Never had issues so I don’t deviate from this.

Depends where you're sat of course, but I’d say you’d be kosher adding probably another decade to that.

Change this bend from a push fit to a compression. See if that improves it. The seals on those are crap, so the water may be at the bottom of the pipe when leaving, and a gap in the seal may be at the top, and you’d get no water leaking. I’d start there. Also, push a cloth into the hole behind it, to rule out if the smell is coming through the hole and not from the pipe under there.

Use LOTS of 4.0 x 25mm screws to fix the plywood down, and if the subfloor is even SLIGHTLY suspect I put the ply down over a 3mm notched bed of neat PVA.

Too far for the guy I used last.

What area are you again?

Offer to pay a much higher rate, if they can show you pics of previous work on their phones. That’s the only way to bag a trade in peak season, as money talks. Ask to see the dates the photos were taken, and properly explain the issues you’ve had. Ask if they have PL insurance and say you’ll need to see a copy; those two things filter out most of the shitebags. As far as a random middle-man taking money from you as an agent? I’d lay the bricks myself before doing this; they’ll find the cheapest bricky possible, do near zero vetting, and keep as much money back as is possible.

This is standard detailing, for any spark. Was going though this today for 1ph ovens (x2), 3ph induction hob, 3ph ASHP's (x2), and 3ph immersion. Lots of very comprehensive discussion was had, and that means the CU will be sized, populated, and comply fully without any hiccups Breakers (or fuses) have always been sized historically, like 15a rewireable fuses for immersions, so this is not anything that's ever overlooked in my experience.

Yup. It'll stick like shit to 2 blankets I've never bought marine ply as if the water is getting to the plywood, you're already wrapped in both of those blankets!

What he said 👆

Heat and steam off a decent shower will negate any feeling of cold / draught etc.

Fitted by a whelk then……

There’s nothing wrong with doing so, just the difference being some use a screwdriver to put a self tapping screw in, and others use a hammer. Rivnuts would require machine thread screws vs ‘what’s going to be in the van’, so that’s not likely to happen.

Post the manufacturers sectional detail, please, before we comment further. I fix into cylinders like this routinely.

Zero chance.