Nickfromwales

The wooden table alongside it has the frameless panel as the tabletop. If you want a better pic of that I can get one?

You can get Solarwatt panels which are frameless and less densely populated with PV, which allow more light through, if that’s of any interest / benefit? They do another which is framed too, but a bit denser, still lets some light through though.

You can use underground fittings which will give you 15° & 30° options, with both available as female / female or male / female (double or single socket). Theres very little wiggle room with the frames so your stated favoured option is best tbh. I assume you know the Geberit pan connector can be cut down in length?

I’ve quoted jobs like these loads of times, and you just have (for eg) 6 flats, do 2-3 panels (or more, depending on roof and budget) per flat, and have 6 systems. Anything else would be impossible / impractical and hugely cost prohibitive. 1 MPAN = 1 PV system, one goes down, 5 stay online. Who’s going to monitor & maintain? Most landlord systems connect to the landlord meter that serves fire alarms and communal / external lighting etc (anything not billed to the tenants). SIMPLIFY!!

Ah. Without compressive strength indicated then this is limited. A bit odd though, that there’s no details of what they themselves are purchasing. 🤷‍♂️

I’ve been installing Brink units for all of my M&E projects since 2018 and can speak very highly of them. Some have been passiv haus certified projects, and I have had great service / support from the guys at CVC Systems Ltd in Oxford. If you buy through them (supply or supply and fit) you’ll get uk support vs buying from Ireland / other grey imports, and also these often are priced lower but don’t have controllers supplied in the box so end up same or more expensive but zero warranty support.

Call them up and ask these specific questions before buying. The majority I see just have the corners stoved in etc, and are otherwise a brand new board / panel. If you fill the gaps with an appropriate foam etc then I see no reason not to use them tbh.

Do you do all inclusive rental or do they pay for their own electricity via unique electricity meters?

Then "YES"!??? Have they refused or have you simply not yet asked?

You just need a good electrician who’s got a bit of GAF, and they should be able to show you options / make suggestions. I’ve done most “lighting designs” for my clients, as a part of the electrical programme of works (FOC), and it’s not rocket science tbf.

Defo make the linings to suit each opening. Dont use ‘the nearest one’ as that’ll create a hell of a lot of unwanted and unsightly making good. This is when a track saw becomes your very best friend. Hire one and make the job a breeze. You can only go over-size obvs, so gap filling would be the only way forward if you want off the shelf stuff. 👎.

Knowledge is power.....and you are now 2.56% more powerful. Use this wisely.

This is a mistake on the suppliers part. They should have given you a new flexible hose which has 3/8” female connectors each end, which will replace the one you have. Just order the new flexible hose and you’ll be off to the races. Have you checked that the new float valve clips into the frame?

Nope. Open end of the upstand needs to be a minimum of 3/4 of the height of the appliance iirc, but as an ‘upgrade’ you can close off the connection to the upstand by fitting a compression 90° bend and one of these: ..which will close off the water from the room altogether.

Eco bricks seem an odd choice. Not so great reviews in term of longevity? Do you mean ecobrix (woodcrete ICF)?

Are you qualified to be the PD? And also for Bregs? I have a colleague who fills in these positions for me when we get a turnkey new build project come in, and he has to be book-worming all the time to ensure he’s up to date with changes in legislation / law. A lot of people pretend to fill this role and hope that nothing goes wrong, which I see a worrying amount of self builders doing. Eyes wide shut seems to be a poor choice, but hey-ho.

Ah. Defo use acoustic PB on the interior of outside walls, as a lot of nuisance noise gets through these PIR boards. I’d go for 15mm if you’re in a built up area / on a main road.

They didn’t insist on it, it’s standard b regs! Acoustic control between habitable rooms is the standard on every job that has stud walls internally. No need for acoustic control on external walls unless it’s to your own advantage. You only need FR plasterboard if you’re less than 1m from the boundary. If you’ve any steels which are behind the cosmetic PB + skim layer they will give the requisite 30 mins FR for the steel. Acoustic plasterboard on the inside face of all external walls is a good idea if you’re SIPs (timber walls with PIR) as they’re quite acoustically transparent vs masonry / concrete or blown cellulose structures. Odd make up for the roof? Why the combination of insulations? Batten the interior to have 400mm oc’s and 12.5mm everywhere will be fine, but at 600mm oc the ceilings should really be 15mm. Bathrooms need 400mm for the weight per m2, all other rooms are fine at 600mm.

Use solvent weld and fit a couple of T’s and cleaning eyes for routine ‘cleaning out of gunk’. Push fit is shart, compression bulky and ugly as feck, sorry! As for AAV’s: You only need one if the discharging water can occupy suffice pipe area on its way down / out to create a vacuum in its wake. That’s the main culprit for slurping and *gurgling wastes. If this is a ground floor kitchen discharging into a drain outside, it’ll defo not need an AAV. *Gurgling wastes at the kitchen sink are caused by those horrid combination sink traps where the appliance connects via a stubby spur. This means that the water discharges between the sink plug hole and the trap, so you get to hear every last slurp…. PLEASE, T off the waste pipe and install a washing machine trap, and connect the appliance(s) via one of those: As your pipe exits horizontally to outdoors you have a T instead of a bend, with a cleaning eye: This allows you to ‘rod’ into the sink and down to the outdoor drain. ”Minted lamb, sir”. 👌

Then you have plenty of options to route MVHR ducts, but the 2 companies you mention typically favour series run systems with galv distribution ducting, whereas I always use a radial setup with 92 or 75mm ducts; the aforementioned companies often specify systems which also require cross-talk and acoustic inline attenuators, which are a complete PITA to integrate into the fabric of a build. Would not be my first choice tbh, sorry.

Have you seen this type of product? https://www.advancedwater.co.uk/product/20m-microflex-25-2-3mm-insulated-underground-pipe-pack-md12525cpack20

Glulam ridge beams, posi-joists, full-fill with blown warmcell, and put the MVHR ducts in the joist voids on the warm side (mechanically fixed to the inside of the lower chord), and jobs a good 'un. Service battens in front of your AT membrane, and then you cables can run through there. I was going to say your architect seems to have run out of steam, but kudos to her if you're the one who's worn her down. We're all only human at the end of the day. I asked about this roof in your MVHR thread, I have my answer now lol. Where i designed and installed all the M&E for a client with an MBC TF PH build, I worked with MBC and the client (and their architect) to provoke some structural changes; to keep the bedrooms and open spaces vaulted etc, and then created a small attic over the ensuite to house the MVHR in a warm section that we dedicated to that cause. Got the MVHR out of the 'living space' without any real impact to the overall 'look'. I've done this more than a few times now, where the architect (and often the client also) do not appreciate how much room M&E equipment needs, and how bulk items can be lost into the fabric of the build with a bit of ingenuity and GIF. My USP is solving problems that others see as "too much like hard work", it's not really that hard tbh.

Apologies for my confusion, but is this a warm or a cold attic (roof)?

Can you upload whatever plans / drawings you have, to assist anyone here who could give said ballpark?

Which pumped shower is it? Some can be converted.