Nickfromwales

I'd peg £80-100 per unit as it's flat pack. Usually worktops separate extra, same for cut-outs in worktops, then same again cornice and pelmets.

They look really nice.

A modern inverter heatpump is no worse than flicking the toaster, kettle and microwave on together, so the hoo-hah is just a storm in a teacup afaic. I worked in a house a good few years ago which had a 60a feed; a very big 5 bedroom house with 100% electric living for everything other than space heating (oil), 3 electric showers, massive induction hob, 2 ovens etc, and an detached annex with electric freestanding cooker, electric shower and immersion > DHW cylinder for a sink and basin (basically a flat over the garage). They ran like that for 6 years, large family, house fully occupied, one shower in the master ensuite was 10.5kw! Not a single issue, but I bet that fuse (supply head DNO HRC type) was molten for half of its life lol.

A quick scan online says 32-38mm, but nowhere does it say less. Best to consult the BCO who will be signing these off tbh

Do the ones you have feature the rebate for the intumescent strips to be loaded into?

You haven't said location. If it's within 3 days travel of london you can triple that.......

Sorry. Just realised it didn’t show the re-quotes. Wrong button!

Just fit a brass stopcock. Then you only have to replace a 50p washer. None of these are designed to be turned on and off with much frequency, and yup……”they don’t make them like they used to”. Lever valves have nylon (iirc) internals so will wear out quite quickly, especially susceptible to ‘passing’ vs leaking externally.

Knowledge. Experience. Information. The things you will find here to be plentiful. Is it better to know a risk and be informed, or come back here asking how to fix it after it broke through misadventure? Buildhub is a place where people discuss things, providing reason and rationale; some other forums are more like boxing rings which is great for exchanging blows. I am simply stating something because what you said raised a red flag, eg ‘simply’ disconnecting the DC side to go scoot off to the shops. There are strict guidelines for decommissioning a PV system, regardless of size or location, so as to avoid damage to equipment or personal injury. No matter what DC isolator you say you’re buying, the rules are the same eg never disconnect panel strings in sunlight or under any load, and they need to be the last thing shut down.

City Plumbing are one of the biggest merchants in the UK, and I’ve had an account with them for nearly 3 decades.

That sounds great on paper, not so great when you go and do so in any kind of daylight. You need to cover the panels to go full blackout if not doing this when dark. Needs to be sequenced to protect all equipment, and you!

Not quite……lol.

2 coat will also mean your electrician has to chase everything in. D&D means you can save time and still get a great job, as long as you go for dry liners who do this every day and who can listen to instruction; instruction such as all back boxes benched, continuous dabs all round the perimeter of the wall and boards, and no dab oozing out of joints and corners. Defo ‘warmer’ feel to these as above.

Yup. Gluttony and corruption come with the territory, and then you add to that the joy of them being ‘influenced’ by the elite. They only have to blag their way through 4 years, and then off the toddle with another chunk of our money…..”set for life”. Makes my blood boil. Any trust for my kids will be cold hard cash, in a box, where nobody can see it, smell it, steal it, or take most of it to perpetuate their failures. Just a sinking ship, and the water is now pouring in faster than it can be bailed out.

The better choice too afaic. Onwards, indeed. Looking forward to the next instalment !

All my guns are air, which I set up for long stays on site. Coil nailer is air too, but a brilliant gun for cladding / feather edge etc. Got 2 Hitachi gas guns for ‘grab and go’ works.

Modern wood screws such as Velocity, my favoured fixings. Spearpoint tip with a slot to allow the wood to be cut as the screw goes in, partially threaded to prevent jacking, and ridges on the countersink to allow the heads to pull in without splitting the wood. We’ve come a long way since cabinet screwdrivers

Can't be, there's no fish left.......

McDonalds.....

230v fittings have current ratings to suit, and when you drop the voltage the current shoots up, simple V/I/R calcs will show you the impact there. Also, you'd need to run bigger cables too, to combat voltage drop. Not a huge issue in a smaller house with a centralised 'cabinet', but if one end of a larger dwelling you will find it prohibitive / impractical I think.

All very neat, methodical work. FYI you can't really sit stud walls down on to the thinner screeded floors, they need to go to founds over kickers, as you have, especially if there's any loads being transferred down from 'above'. No bullet dodging to ever be had there methinks so you're all good to just cut around these, and the lads are doing a sterling job of it too. Keep the bacon flowing, the grease keeps the elbows and knees lubricated

lol.

I used a coil-nailer with round head nails. When I did feather edge with a 1st fix it killed the wood, so I tried my 2nd fix which just couldn't hold the seasonal changes in the wood, and just pulled the nails out or just through. With one of those (coil nailers) you can have nails as short as 22mm iirc. I used 55's for the feather edge. For the framing, just use screws and an impact driver. Much more forgiving as 45mm timber may otherwise split. Also a huge ballache if you need to take it apart after a mis-measure.

They're all lying, 2 faced, self-serving assholes though. Not just any one of them.

@Dee at least your rats can't fly lol....