Jump to content

Nickfromwales

Members
  • Posts

    31378
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    346

Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Can't see why not as long as the bends you form are long-radius.
  2. I would. That pipe is designed to be directly buried forever and is pretty bombproof. If it is off a T after the primary stopcock it is no longer 'technically' a rising cold mains, it's just a spur, so no need to do the stopcock and non return valve etc all over again.
  3. Oil ones blast the DHW out. Way better than gas equivalent. As you have oil on site, maybe better to pick the battles accordingly to see if you can cope on their offering for a single supply.
  4. Did this over Velox ICF and got 0.66 ACH (as-built). Would have been more like 0.4-something if the doors and windows didn't leak so much.....
  5. Myself, probably over-opinionated. Just seen D&D done excellently with great results enough times to be willing to defend it. And if @nod will use this in his own house and his clients 7 figure builds, then it defo isn't any form of compromise; other than, as you say, losing 15mm of GIA per wall.
  6. Are you being held against your will to create modern-day dinosaurs by any chance?
  7. I grew up around this, and would recommend this in a heartbeat. Just........get someone good.
  8. Utter, indiscriminate, tosh.
  9. Thanks for the info. It'll be useful to the OP.
  10. Ye' cannea change the laws of physics, Jim. You clearly have near zero real-life experience on sites / projects that have had either / or. It is my own, isolated, opinion, that you have no clue what you are talking about. Myself and @nod have done many homes where quality, integrity, and "best effort" are at the forefront of everything we do. It's a bit of a piss-you-off to hear you dismiss this in a few sentences, to be honest. 30mm smaller? How thick do you think scratch-coat and skim is?? 5mm?
  11. It's just you then. The water-lords have clearly decided that you should live a life of eternal H2O-based hell and damnation. There is no amount of PTFE tape that can save you, I'm afraid.
  12. Same I use on almost every clients project, but from the Xcite range at City Electrical. Just found them to be more robust, not just the fittings and connectors, but also in terms of where I can go downstream for replacement / warranty / service etc. When we've done more sizeable and 'prestigious' projects I have always invited the client to go and buy 6 or more 'spares' so they can change a light out here and there over the next decade without fear of differing colour temperature and dispersion etc.
  13. I drill a hole with a 16mm hole saw at an angle, very slowly and carefully, slot one of those in, and let the other one flick back as intended.
  14. I am always a mile and a half ahead of all this. Nothing worse than getting to the plastered and painted phase and realising feck all works for the lighting layout / install. Do you have a pic of a hole you've cut out so I can understand the problem and suggest a solution?
  15. I've used them for decades, but admittedly not for turning on/off a supply for an outside tap. @John Carroll, how many times do you turn this on/off? Seasonally? With a Frosti tap you don't need to drain or shut off for winter. Cracking little gadgets. One of it's cheaper relatives here LINK
  16. Close the eaves externally and blow it full of cellulose? That'll get into every nook and cranny.
  17. I'm saying nothing, that's half a pint down here lol.
  18. You're not allowed to use anything other than the rated MDPE (blue) water pipe, which is 20 / 25 / 32mm for a rising cold mains. 22mm would give a lot of restriction most likely too. Is this a mains or a T off the mains? https://www.toolstation.com/mdpe-pipe/p31388?store=W8&utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=googleshoppingfeed&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=17808462181&gbraid=0AAAAAD-vLcU0T7r6bZ8njV1OqqMbxcGaz&gclid=CjwKCAjwk7DFBhBAEiwAeYbJsYqd05h9aKi4J4x3GAK2rKrNEyPpEW_WvIQhJtcylKLpeYwK9yopIRoCqMMQAvD_BwE
  19. You want the cold mains in the ground, ideally, so you get cold water to draw off for drinking etc. If there’s a chance the pipe would routinely sit over 20°c then legionella is a concern. That’s why pipes are required to be buried low, > 600mm, not just to stop them being damaged. Where the sub base is it may still have sharp stone, so duct it and pull the pipe through afterwards afaic.
×
×
  • Create New...