Nickfromwales

It's now all in hand

If you avoid doing DHW pulls when it's the arse of winter (and use Off-peak > immersion instead) you can pretty much dodge the freezing/defrost issues. A 7kW panasonic J series Aquerea I did in Oxford hasn't done one defrost since it was installed, service guy thought it was a fault, but we spoke and I confirmed my design 'ethos' and he said 'happy days'. Did a small LLH on that one as I had a pumped circuit going to the Brink Air Comfort AHU as well as flow to the UFH manifold.

A face brick that is only say 10-15mm thick, that looks like a brick, or the types of tiles/mosaics I linked to.

If the levels not crazy out-of-whack there’s probably no need to do anything other than grout. With 2 layers vs one thick one, the sheets will sit down nicely and conform, even more so when you dump the concrete on top!! Doubt this needs time and money throwing at it tbh.

Quite an inconspicuous / unobtrusive looking unit though, one to add to the notes! Thanks.

Have you been able to save the tiles that came off? If so, I'd just clean up the tiles, scratch up the surface of the white ones with a 4" diamond blade for a grinder (lay it flat and use it like sandpaper) and then use cementitious tile adhesive (not the ready mixed crap in a tub) and then grout. CT1 or silicone at the point where the tile meets the bath will stop any leaking there, and also the internal rising corner too. I'd bet that water is getting in around the shower valve as that's a bit sketchy looking, tile cut and mostly grout, so I'd mask that area and apply a load of CT1 at the sides and over the top, behind the shower valve itself, to stop any water getting in there. That'll limp you though I expect. DO NOT CT1 under the shower valve (red) as that needs to be able to let any water get out again, just do the two sides and over the top (green)

200 mile drive for some battens? Is Nicole Shirtswinger the seller and you'll get an autograph???

There's not much overhang though, so water will run down that constantly with no drip left. I think hack off render and use the decorative slips id the most robust and maintenance free solution, with a colour / pattern that suits the surroundings and won't show any 'lines' but can be pressure washed too.

I mean just using the legs as a stay to stop the floor walking, but when you get to the far doorway it'll be held there too so doubt you have anything to worry about here at all tbh.

Thanks. You only need expansion at the edges, so the rule is not to have this shoe-horned into the 4 opposite walls for eg, otherwise it lifts in the centre (pillows up), so with the flooring pressing against the legs and the area being so small, I'd just have it captive left and right, and then lift the legs and shoot under where the plinth heater is, as the worst expansion (negligible anyways) will be lengthways there.

Indeed. Some are described as extra deep, which puts the bottom deck of the bath closer to the floor without making the bath much taller to step into. Lots to decipher tbh!

If the flooring isn’t tight up against anything then it can expand all it likes? The only issue here is whether the floor will ‘walk’ eg start to move when you’re walking over it daily. Do the cuts work out that it’s just under one plinth but then further under another? A pic would help, plus how wide and long is the kitchen floor area please?

5/1/1 sand cement lime. You adding lime or not? Also if the blocks are dry and dusty they should be getting a quick dunk in a barrel of water before laying. @nod?

All my work here has been in vain. Upvc cladding is a sin. lol. ”No!”.

What? I'd rather lower my scrotum into an upturned petrol mower than see UPVC installed there. "New balls, please".

Thanks for confirming. I doubt they want to go around shooting their toes off, lets be honest, so nobody would say that in reality as no two tests/treatments will ever be the same. The solution is great for anyone with an overly complex or DIY build, but also I will consider them for any projects where I am coordinating/consulting on M&E (and have made sure the manual AT measures are already super-robust/identified and addressed to suit) as for the price I think this is an excellent set of braces to compliment the belt. Something to make your house more comfortable (for the rest of your life) and that also makes the MVHR efficiency max out, is a no brainer afaic.

Every member here feels for her......

No point in tickling the sides imho. Slap it on mate.

@craig may be able to advise.

If you hack that off and get it prepped correctly, tile adhesive is cementitious so won’t degrade, so it’ll stay put. You’d fit cement boards with corrosion resistant screws and dab with same adhesive, and then tile to the boards. Render outside for this kind of thing you see failing everywhere, just look at some walls when you’re driving the ‘burbs and you’ll quickly notice it.

Same thing with cars and shopping centre parking spaces!?! eBay / gumtree if you're stuffed and have to have that model, or a mind-bending amount of googling to find an alternative. Or bite the bullet and dress an integrated one in.

That's a perfectly fine and normal bath.

That salesperson was a dick. Others from the land of the hot-press will be along to comment, just sit and wait for the magic to happen . You'd be best off sticking to UK based suppliers so you can get robust after-sales service, but there is some lovely stuff coming from abroad, and iirc Velfac and Rational manufacture in Europe, so this is not uncommon.

Not seen a section drawing like that before. The entire external leaf and all your façade cladding etc hanging over a 10mm gap with some comp'band seems odd to me; most are sat on the insulation, and that is flush to the masonry or Marmox. If you can get to all that area currently, then I would set that insulation block in, against a fat bead of 330FM foam to act as a shutter and better seal the gaps under the twin wall. Then to fill the gaps I would drill down into the soleplate, using a handsaw blade inserted above the DPC to ensure that it doesn't get punctured by the drill bit, say at 10mm dia. I'd then introduce about a teaspoon of 50/50 water/pva primer and then the same qty of D4 PU flooring glue into the same hole (500ml bottle have a nozzle that you can push into the hole and the glue is reasonably 'runny') but less is more with this so do some trial and error before you squirt too much in and it goes crazy. If the undulations are over say 1000mm, then I'd drill every 200mm, dead centre of the sole plate, and repeat as necessary. Youll need to hoover out the sawdust or use a blower, so the hole is clear for the glue to drop down. The D4 glue will love the bit of moisture from the priming and cure/expand like nobody's business, and it'll go off very hard to give you the result you want. Normal builders foam will be quite soft, and a waste of time here if you want strength as well as gap-filling.

Fit and forget. https://www.victorianplumbing.co.uk/casterton-natural-stone-effect-split-face-tiles-100-x-500mm?s_kwcid=AL!15853!3!!!!x!!&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=4&gad_campaignid=20251729566&gbraid=0AAAAAD_SoLZYaExfpwqgPobeUWA1xyGaK&gclid=CjwKCAjw49vEBhAVEiwADnMbbByUNPEnFP30c3GhHEddga3YkEmBorrhHWfYMFRrivJMaE7iQpj74RoCuIgQAvD_BwE