Nickfromwales

Sometimes the OCD has to be left in the van so you can get to 5pm mate Great if you’re retired or on day rate, but a bugger when you’re s/e and on a price. Very few people will notice or care, but if you give them an uplifted bill then they 💩 the bed.

Yup. Crazy. People have been dying from collapsed, boiled CWS tanks for a long time, so it’s not as if the risk isn’t there. This is why I usually do a day on structural carpentry, including boarding for access and so we can work safely, upgrading / adding insulation where we’re covering voids, and adding service lighting etc, as these jobs should be taken seriously and done properly. This one just looks like a hit and run, which (from a major player) seems pretty poor tbh. Let us know how you get on.

👆👌

It’ll still allow bypass if not?

+1 to not digging down. Also, be sure none of this leaks as you may be responsible for damage to the flat below you, assuming you’re not on the ground floor? Just be very careful when moving / altering the pipe that goes into the wall! You don’t know if that goes into a solvent welded fitting or one with a push-fit rubber bung; if the latter you can easily pull that out of the rising (communal) soil stack. That would not be good. I’d cut it to leave about 150mm of pipe protruding, and then use a compression fitting to connect to that. If you use solvent weld and get it wrong you have to cut that pipe again and restart, the compression ones will give you wiggle room and time to keep making alterations to get this all fitting nicely. Use CT1 to bond the new tray in, NOT silicone, and if you search on here (using google) you’ll find a lot of my ramblings on how to do this type of install. Do you feel confident doing this work?

Yup. If you have a signal, I assume low voltage DC, then you just feed that to a relay with a DC coil that switches a fused 230v feed, and Bob's your mothers brother. You can do the same with zero volt contacts, you just have to generate the DC to send it, so it can become the return.

What he said...

They'll get back to you I'm sure. I know they're crazy busy atm.

Make it so, #2

@Post and beam You may not be aware that you’ll struggle (or may not get at all) any UK support with an import unit. I think the way you’re buying would require a full return to base for repairs or replacement, whereas if bought in the UK by a recognised/supported supplier you’ll get on site support. Just a heads up of why these are cheaper, and also some don’t arrive with controls so you have to buy on top. So “beware”

@Gooders22 I have removed the duplicate thread, as you’re best off with the answers in one location Cheers, mods.

Then I’d ditch the idea of the umbilical. It’ll have significant heat loss for life, and the costs will only go up over time. I would get a Panasonic mono block heat pump (sub £3k) and fit one to the annex for heating and DHW. Then choose another for the house, and run them as 2 separate systems. If you can swallow the costs for losses then fine, but be aware that it needs factoring in. Having a cold water booster out there that creates an artificial cold mains for the 2 dwellings to share is fine, just know that you’ll need at least a 32mm cold mains pipe from the pump and accumulator to the house to not suffer losses of the stored energy over distance. I’ve done a good few of these with great results, and seen others that fail for a proper lack of understanding as to how the pipework needs to be upsized to suit. No good trying to empty a 4 pint pitcher with a tiny straw. I’d seriously reconsider your options here, for heating and hot water, is my 2 cents.

I think if they address this fully, then you’d just ask them to cover the removal and reinstatement costs of the cylinder to allow a carpenter to come in and re-twang the ceiling rafters (probably still doable without pulling down the ceiling) and tbh I’d expect you’d have to bear the cost of the carpentry there; this was very likely already on its journey back to the centre of the earth, so best to be reasonable and pragmatic when approaching OSO imho. Ask the carpenter for additional cost to create the proper platform for the cylinder, and ask OSO to meet that cost in isolation. The cylinder will need to be removed (emptied and moved to the other side of the attic) and reinstated, so ask OSO to provide a plumber to remove and reinstate.

If they do, tell them it'll be your insurers who are contacting them next! Not sure how the ceiling will be returned to its original position (flat)?

It is one of the weak links I have come across, a number of times, with a few different TF suppliers tbf. For one project I suggested to the client that we skip the ones provided and make new, which we did. Much better job tbh.

Air-Haus is CVC btw.

@Post and beam I enquired, and got this back, FYI.

Pull the rockwool out on the hot days?

@Spinny MVHR or trickle vents and extractors?

Confirm the thickness of the Mac etc with them, and do that via WhatsApp or email, not in person or over the phone.

Cool. Just make sure they are told you won’t accept pooling water on the mac when it’s laid, and that you expect them to show you water running off the driveway and into the ACO’s correctly. Tell them this before they arrive to site with the materials, as that’ll show you if they’re men or boys. Be firm but polite, but explain that is part of the agreement and terms for final payment to be made. Better they run away now vs you fighting in court later if it’s a poor job.

Ouch. Yes, defo an issue, but I’d bet the deflection started before this and has now just got worse. What they should have done is butt timbers to that large timber (running perpendicular) and screwed them together with construction screws, and then had those perpendicular timbers head off to meet the wall plate, or at least sit on 2-4 of the smaller original roof timbers. Needs sorting sooner than later, and afaic that timber work they’ve done is utter shite, placing the load directly onto one small existing timber is appalling workmanship. Did OSO do it or a sub contractor?

Do the roof lights open?

Is this still for a true skylight opening or roof lights (Velux type units)? Just swapping out the plasterboard for Marmox on the internal reveals would make a huge difference to prevent cold bridging. Forming the upstand as a sandwich is easy to do, bench built and then offered into place as a finished item, so you can install a thermal break in that too, plus the IWI.

What type of driveway are you installing, as you will need to speak to the contractor regarding prep etc. Water will sit on compacted type 1 so maybe throw some patio slabs down between the pavement and front door to keep your shoes clean until it’s time to complete the works. The ‘mud’ is just the fines of the type 1.