Nickfromwales

You could stack 2 lots of 225x25, you’d just need to get inventive on the connections to/from, but doable. As far as temp is concerned, flow rates won’t suffer but you will get condensation I expect. That means the ducts need to run downhill to the outside wall so they can drip dry. With 2 lots of 225, you’ll have space for some insulation under the lowest one so that issue would be reduced significantly if avoiding using the full depth of the insulation to fit the duct.

+1 on needing trickle vents. Won’t pass b regs, and would make a horrible home to live in.

Doesn’t need to be FR PB unless it’s not being skimmed. Regular (white) PB + skim gives 30 mins FR. If FR PB isn’t getting skimmed then you need 2 layers, joints staggered, gaps/joints filled with intumescent caulk. BCO’s ask for this all the time until I push back. A lot just say what they’d ‘like to see’ vs actually state the regs. Only time this all shifts is when it’s more than a 2 storey building.

Hi. If this is a standard domestic residence, you only have to apply intumescent paint if the steel is visible at the point of completion. If it’s behind (regular) plasterboard and skim it’s already got the requisite 30 mins FR, so no probs; unless your BCO says different? A lot do, so I suggest you challenge and then they’ll back down, as long as the steels boxed in/is set into the fabric of the build.

Doubt the wall will have any stability if it’s not mechanical tied in at the end. You’ve tried to avoid the detail, lol so I’ll try to avoid telling you I’d make it the better job and remove the walls and replace with stud and insulation or just the insulted boards as you say . Assuming you’ll need insulation 3-4 sides around you’ll be better off either the timber frame (3x2) with PIR inlaid, and another 25mm over the front of studs (if you can afford to lose another inch of interior space?). Building control may allow you to just dot and dab insulted plasterboard straight on to the external leafs, if so, removing what you’ve done will free up more internal area, assuming you’re already allowed to just insulate the side wall then you should be allowed to do the same 3 sides around? Obvs ceiling insulation needs beefing up too.

Welcome aboard!

Amen.

Is the plumbing all sealed and pressurised, eg no gravity systems present? That joint looks like it has weeped and just sealed itself with the crud, as both joints should look similar, they don't. Only fear would be if they were gravity (low pressure) atm and then you convert to a pressurised system downstream and then this becomes a problem.

Option 2 prob best, but will need the stop and the red area painting again to blend in satisfactorily imo.

Just needs to be a stainless cylinder afaic, as this will outlive both of us, whereas copper will not. 100% avoid glass-lined cylinders (you can tell when it's one, as these have electrically powered sacrificial anodes). These often rot from the inside out, and are utter crap.

It's just a jump up to 28mm from 22mm then. Scan read it whilst multi-tasking, which never goes well. TBH all the Telford cylinders at 250L and upwards come with 1" BSP (so 28mm) connections/coil, so not sure any would impacted by being on 22mm if the cylinder volume is that much lower and it had less work to do?

Go to Trevor at cylinders2go (Telford) and mention my username and the forum, as he's given favourable rates to many other members here over the years

Make sure you absolutely do feck all for the 3 weeks, as the body will recover so much better/quicker if you leave it alone to do so. Same advice I had to follow with my Distal bicep tendon rupture.....11 months to recover from that.

We'd need Sigourney Weaver to help out......🔥 👽

Tell him "guess what you're doing this weekend numbnuts......"

We created one....

Penis.

Yup. I put a 1mm packer in with oak, or a 2mm packer if it’s going to get a few coats of paint, resting the stops against the closed door (after latches fitted and fine tuned) then pinning them in place for life.

It’s a really bad idea to fit the stops before the doors are swung, like a REALLY bad idea, especially if they’re going to be painted into place. Don’t do it is my 2 cents.

They both seem to have the same coil surface area, so not sure what high flow actually refers to here. Ask Trevor for a proper explanation is my 2 cents.

It’s a bit shit, but tbh you can just cut out and remove the expansion skirting, at the start and end of each radius, and clean these sections out one by one. Then you can reinstate the expansion skirting and backfill with Mapei builders screed (SLC with fibres) and you should be fine. You can of course pass this task to the contractor you feel who is responsible. Looks to be a ship without a captain here, so who’s responsible for quality and sense checking before / during these stages of work?

Just lay the normal plastic pipes as said, these are very robust. Just leave a good 200mm below, around and above and backfill with plenty of pea shingle to allow a bit of wiggle room.

Why not do the internal structure in timber frame? The brickwork connecting to the outside wall will be a huge cold bridge.

Speak to Trevor at Cylinders2go and mention my username and the forum. He’ll look after you with a price for the Telford kit. Lots of others here have bought from them.

Can you do a sketch of how the room will be laid out? Eg choose a former, where’s the waste outlet on that former etc etc.