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No ours is a "boat bath" with no feet. Trap fits between bath and floor. We find we get a lot of fluf and dust down between the bath and wall but it only gets cleaned back there once or twice a year.

Perhaps see 53 seconds into this vid. Looks easy enough..

The water main coming into most houses does exactly this. I'd use hdpe pipe and avoid any joints in the floor. Have bends parallel to the wall (rather than perpendicular as shown in your picture so they aren't so sharp.

Our waste exits out the back of the bath. From there we used a flexible pipe to connect to the waste in the floor. We actually used a longer length than needed in a path like this.. __________ | |__________ so the whole bath can easily be moved away from the wall for cleaning. Wall mounted taps and spout.

Ours came with a (damaged) foam gasket sheet that I replaced with one cut from this.. 3mm white.. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Closed-Cell-polyethylene-foam-sheet-1M-x-1M-insulation-waterproof-rigid-strong/352142516963?var=621587385445&pageci=3c4533a5-13fb-485b-9a3a-4be9e8c36d2d&redirect=mobile It's not a hard foam, more like medium rubber, but felt similar to the one supplied and more durable. After tightening up the bolts I used a sealer same as others did above. It's easier to do before fitting the seat..

Is it really worth £2k though? Is it much bigger/better than say.. £599 https://www.bigbathroomshop.co.uk/milano-overton-white-modern-oval-double-ended-freestanding-bath-1500mm-x-750mm-118374?gclid=CjwKCAjw5remBhBiEiwAxL2M94b6pMsOIhqjIZu2qJbew2CM6Zy-airXft7k8hM0K-e4s8XmBBzbQhoCuFcQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds £399.. https://victoriaplum.com/browse/all-baths/type_Freestanding-baths?csi=FSB017&gclid=CjwKCAjw5remBhBiEiwAxL2M93pbKIctmFzsa3mvloJlSAO3eMXLx-LUX_F9qkhVkdMutzSuolmBwBoCRRUQAvD_BwE

Perhaps drill a small hole at the end of the crack to stop it propagating before any repair.

I have used these for pressure treated soft wood fence posts but they are messy. When you use a heat gun to shrink the sleeve you get black gloop squeeze out. OK for fence posts but perhaps not for this? Edit: I suppose you could wrap the post with clingfilm or tape to protect it and keep the exposed section clean. +1 I suppose the L shape might allow fittings like these but I'm not sure about the side loads. https://www.amazon.co.uk/support-bracket-adjustable-Terminal-90X130X8/dp/B01LZGXEPV/ref=asc_df_B01LZGXEPV/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=446856026572&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1467536357360235964&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9044886&hvtargid=pla-750585532533&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=103463556386&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=446856026572&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1467536357360235964&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9044886&hvtargid=pla-750585532533

Could do or just leave it open.

Best consult an electrician which I'm not. But the Cable calculator here.. https://www.elandcables.com/cable-calculator If you enter 100A, 20m, single phase, buried in the ground it suggests either.. Armoured thermoplastic insulated cables - Multicore 70°C Cable size: 35mm Cables include: BS5467 SWA, BS6724 SWA (equipment connected rated 70⁰C) Or Armoured thermoset insulated cables - Multicore 90°C Cable size: 25mm Cables include: BS5467 SWA, BS6724 SWA 35mm^2 SWA is perhaps £9 to £10 a meter. 20m would £200, some places offer free delivery.

If we can't sell it I have a flat that's been empty two years and in need of a new kitchen and redecorating. I'll have to see which route works out cheaper - DIY and 20% Vat or a builder and 5% Vat.

Yes that's it exactly.

How much work is left? If its clearly identifiable as say 4 weeks work perhaps offer to pay weekly if you see progress on schedule.

Can you get the builder to issue you invoices? I mean for materials supply only not supply and fit? HMRC might still question it if they see its a builder supplying materials but if marked "supply only" might get away with it.

Some years ago my elderly mother purchased an oven and was sold an extended warranty. I was about to tell her that extended warranties were a waste of money when she mentioned it came with an annual clean! Every year a man came and professionaly cleaned it for her. Worth every penny.

What have you got at the moment? If you already have a surface ready for tiling why can't the tank stand on that? Is he thinking some sort of raised platform would look better or is it needed structurally? I would be tempted not to put a raised platform under it because it might be harder to hide in cabinets later if you don't get the size right.

Take a look at the Clearview stoves. We have two wood burners of different makes and love our Clearview Solution 400 (no boiler). The glass stays much cleaner despite burning the same wood in both. Whatever make you get.... if possible avoid those intended for smokeless zones. They have a stop which prevents you turning the air right down. This is intended to stop them smoking when first lit but it means they tend to burn too fast.

Most likely because some objections were recieved. That's the policy in our area. If x number of objections are recieved it goes to committee.

You can just make out the word austenitic (?) on the channel in the photos but I think that just a type of stainless steel. Some 3D printers are held together with T nuts. You put them in the channel, turn them 90 degrees and tighten a screw to fix in place. Something similar would probably work here.

Google.. Channel closure strip or Channel cover strip.

I've now read the report from the planning officer and it looks like he has covered everything. I reckon good chance it will be approved.

1. Yes the committee can decide either way. 2. Sometimes I feel sorry for the planning officer that has to think up "valid planning reasons for refusal" after previously supporting the application. Typically they try and think up as many reasons as possible that previously they may not even have mentioned. 3. At appeal it's an independent planning inspector who isn't connected to the council that makes the decision. Bit like a judge in a court case. I'm not sure planning permission is actually required to remove the fence and form a new access. I think it's only required on a classified road (A and B roads?). Normally on unclassified roads you only need permission for a Dropped Kerb which also gives you the right to drive across any footpath without committing a driving offense. Only other thing I can think of is that when your house was built there was a planning condition requiring a fence? If it gets refused I think I would appeal and submit a new application just to convert the garage and a separate Dropped Kerb Application. Perhaps check with a planning consultant in case I've missed something.

You can get arches made of concrete or steel and faced with brick facing slips. Example.. https://www.fab-lite.co.uk/steel-arches.html https://www.fab-lite.co.uk/concrete-arches.html Will need a good builder to protect the wall above while the arch is replaced.

Is any of it contestable so you can get your own quotes?

Will you have to pay CGT on the Norfolk plot? Might be able to deduct costs of buying and selling plus cost of getting PP.?