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Some years ago my elderly mother purchased an oven and was sold an extended warranty. I was about to tell her that extended warranties were a waste of money when she mentioned it came with an annual clean! Every year a man came and professionaly cleaned it for her. Worth every penny.

What have you got at the moment? If you already have a surface ready for tiling why can't the tank stand on that? Is he thinking some sort of raised platform would look better or is it needed structurally? I would be tempted not to put a raised platform under it because it might be harder to hide in cabinets later if you don't get the size right.

Take a look at the Clearview stoves. We have two wood burners of different makes and love our Clearview Solution 400 (no boiler). The glass stays much cleaner despite burning the same wood in both. Whatever make you get.... if possible avoid those intended for smokeless zones. They have a stop which prevents you turning the air right down. This is intended to stop them smoking when first lit but it means they tend to burn too fast.

Most likely because some objections were recieved. That's the policy in our area. If x number of objections are recieved it goes to committee.

You can just make out the word austenitic (?) on the channel in the photos but I think that just a type of stainless steel. Some 3D printers are held together with T nuts. You put them in the channel, turn them 90 degrees and tighten a screw to fix in place. Something similar would probably work here.

Google.. Channel closure strip or Channel cover strip.

I've now read the report from the planning officer and it looks like he has covered everything. I reckon good chance it will be approved.

1. Yes the committee can decide either way. 2. Sometimes I feel sorry for the planning officer that has to think up "valid planning reasons for refusal" after previously supporting the application. Typically they try and think up as many reasons as possible that previously they may not even have mentioned. 3. At appeal it's an independent planning inspector who isn't connected to the council that makes the decision. Bit like a judge in a court case. I'm not sure planning permission is actually required to remove the fence and form a new access. I think it's only required on a classified road (A and B roads?). Normally on unclassified roads you only need permission for a Dropped Kerb which also gives you the right to drive across any footpath without committing a driving offense. Only other thing I can think of is that when your house was built there was a planning condition requiring a fence? If it gets refused I think I would appeal and submit a new application just to convert the garage and a separate Dropped Kerb Application. Perhaps check with a planning consultant in case I've missed something.

You can get arches made of concrete or steel and faced with brick facing slips. Example.. https://www.fab-lite.co.uk/steel-arches.html https://www.fab-lite.co.uk/concrete-arches.html Will need a good builder to protect the wall above while the arch is replaced.

Is any of it contestable so you can get your own quotes?

Will you have to pay CGT on the Norfolk plot? Might be able to deduct costs of buying and selling plus cost of getting PP.?

I actually made one. Its just a 10k NTC (@25C) resistor. Something like this and some heat shrink sheeve to insulate the wires after soldering. I used telephone cable to hook it up to the stat. Only need two wires but ideally they should be twisted together. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pcs-NTC-10k-Thermistor-MF52-103-Temperature-Sensitive-Resistor/264908446152?hash=item3dadc619c8:g:d04AAOSwYP5i58R2&pageci=3bf7b223-b3df-4e6b-a18e-b2df511f1ba3&redirect=mobile I put it in a small plastic box (about the size of a match box) with a few holes drilled along the top and bottom. If doing it again a could probably 3D print an even smaller one. Google found another make that im sure would also work... https://www.sterlingsensors.co.uk/indoor-wall-mount-thermistor-sensor.html I'm sure Heatmiser must make a a remote air temperature sensor - I probably made mine after seeing the price !

As I recall Part M of the regs (on disabled access) say you shouldn't make things worse for wheelchair users but in your case I don't think any of the options would be significantly worse given the steps down.

We have wet UFH in our bathroom. Used a Heatmiser programmable stat on wall outside bathroom with a remote wall mounted air temperature sensor in the bathroom. Works well as we can have the bathroom heated at times of year when we wouldn't have the bedrooms heated.

I think I would get a planning consultant involved. Ask them to review your application, see what they say. Sounds to me like you have good chance of getting PP on appeal. We spent a year in pre app advice stage getting nowhere. Planning Consultant was very helpful. Quite often they used to work for the planning department and get taken seriously. Sometimes you just have to file your application and take it to appeal if rejected.

This is the sort of thing I was thinking of. Its galvanised steel with a plastic coating.. https://www.southernsheeting.co.uk/categories.html?filter_set[]=285,310&name=drip+flashing&type=simple&perpage=76

Can you run the render board up behind the cladding a bit so the membrane can overlap it without being seen? I used a strip of lead above a window on my outbuilding. The top edge of the strip goes behind the membrane, the bottom edge goes in front of the cement board (window head board in my case). There must be someone making aluminium sections that would do the same job.

I found one or two wouldn't recommend people for fear of somehow becoming liable so I started out saying things like.. "I know you can't recommend somone but is there anyone I should go check out myself? That sometimes worked well. Other places were much more forthcoming and even told me people to avoid, especially if there wernt any other customers around.

Having seen the design with open plan areas and full height areas I think you need to find a builder and have him sit down with your Architect to discuss how to construct it. Depending on the outcome the builder might want construction drawings done. For example roofs need to be triangulated to stop them pushing walls out. There are several ways to do this but large steel beams or frames might be needed. Above the full height open plan areas. If there is an access problem will you need to and be able to crane them into place?

Perhaps take a drive around. See if you can find some nice one off houses being built. Stop and tell them you might need a builder soon ask if you can look around. That's how we found our builder (and ruled out a few).

Perhaps look at brick and block with stick built roof?

April 23 figures.. https://www.checkatrade.com/blog/cost-guides/building-cost-per-sq-m/ Don't just look at the table, read the text as it details extra costs not included which are significant.

When we looked at a QS they wanted 1.5% +VAT of the build cost to work out the materials and labour. We then got 3 or 4 quotes from builders. The QS wanted more to review the quotes to ensure they were all made on the same basis. Eg One builder had included a greater PC sum for the kitchen, another hadn't included any landscaping or driveway etc. There were a lot of differences. One had dramatically under estimated the cost of windows. The QS pointed out all the errors and omissions and asked for final quotes. They were all within a few thousand of the QS estimate. During construction we made almost no changes but did find second fix items like wood and stone flooring much more expensive. Probably over spent by £40k. It's about 310 sqm built to high standard in 2005-7.

They will have some sort of frame that screws into the patress box and the face plate clips to the frame so no screws visible. Some modification to the frame might be needed. I've done similar things to other makes to produce things like loud speakers cable outlets.

They do a blank plate.. https://www.corston.com/products/1g-blank-plate-antique-brass Add your own brass toggle switch and panel mounted cable strain relief or just the strain relief and an inline switch at the light. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Toggle-Switch-Single-Mounting-Connector/dp/B07YVBG8S2/ref=sr_1_19?crid=1CQP0EO3FQUBC&keywords=Antique+brass+toggle+switch+panel+mounted&qid=1690302828&sprefix=antique+brass+toggle+switch+panel+mounted%2Caps%2C136&sr=8-19 https://www.amazon.co.uk/sourcing-map-Strain-Bushing-13-7x11mm/dp/B08MZ4KBKJ/ref=d_pb_allspark_dp_sims_pao_desktop_session_based_sccl_3_1/261-1952398-5195920?pd_rd_w=qChST&content-id=amzn1.sym.4a6a4f4b-2ec4-4358-bbb7-36a980a0ba06&pf_rd_p=4a6a4f4b-2ec4-4358-bbb7-36a980a0ba06&pf_rd_r=0TW5H8BEMGDZNYMEMNDZ&pd_rd_wg=13nAw&pd_rd_r=4a15434e-e422-42d2-9961-cfd8a202c8db&pd_rd_i=B08MZ4KBKJ&psc=1 Possibly similar cheaper on ebay.