Temp

Perhaps look at a wifi access point in your main house with a directional antenna pointed at the hut. Most access points have Omnidirectional antenna so pick on that allows you to replace it with a directional. Some people make them from Pringles cans but I've not tried that. If it's across the road you might loose connection when a high sided van drives past.

I've not used Marmox but have used Wedi board which I think is similar if not identical. It's a blue foam board with a thin layer of cement and fibre glass mesh on each side. I used it to clad a wash stand before tiling. Very easy to cut and fix. Has insulating properties. The main issue I see is what happens when retiling. I've not tried but I think it would be hard to get the tiles off without chunks of the board coming with it? Our bathroom is stone clad so our man recommended Hardiebacker board... http://www.jameshardie.co.uk/hardiebacker-12mm-cement-board The 12mm version is very strong and quite hard to cut. I think they recommend scoring and snapping. Our man went through a large number of disposable hand saws and electric jig saw blades as it blunts tools quickly. I reckon it would be possible to fix things to Hardibacker without having to find studs. Would be harder/difficult to fix things to Marmox/Wedi. I glued in wooden blocks where I knew I would have to fix things to the washstand.

Frogeye - Thanks for the offer but I've now discovered several of the holes aren't deep enough either so I've invested in a core drill bit.

Thanks! While I was googling for possible ideas I came across this site with what looks like very low prices on TCT core drills. Perhaps too low? https://www.beal.org.uk/stock-clearance/core-shells.html

Yes looks like some experimenting needed.

I'm wondering if an internal grinding wheel might work?

Probably only the outer 50-60mm or so needs to be enlarged.

Turns out some new walls lights I have are tapered and I will have to enlarge existing the holes in the brick wall to get them in. Currently the holes are about 70mm diameter and need to be about 1 or 2mm larger over half their depth. Looking for suggestions on the best way to do this. I have eight to do. Screwfix have a 78mm core drill and suppose I could make a wooden plug with a 10mm hole in the middle to guide it. Would probably jam a lot. Any other suggestions? I can't get the light fittings turned down because I don't think the wall thickness of the fitting is sufficient.

Sorry I missed this key point when I replied earlier. As I understand it if you cannot reach agreement over a condition the only formal way forward is to appeal the condition and let a planning inspector sort it out.

PS Somewhere there is a standard that portable meters have to meet and which first generation meters don't. If anyone can remember what that's called let us know. SMETS2 or something like that?

As I understand it there is a target date after which they are meant to be portable between suppliers. However it's not clear to me who pays for if you want to upgrade from a first generation meter to a portable one. So i'm declining until they can assure me it's a portable one https://www.gov.uk/guidance/smart-meters-how-they-work

If it's your ecologist not the councils then you are under no obligation to submit her report. I would brief another. I would show them her report and see if they agree your contention of the wider benefits or if not can mitigation could be used before hiring them to do a new report.

If you are importing them yourself they have already risen. I think it's not clear what will happen longer term. If the UK ramps up production of bricks then that may hold prices down forcing imports to compete. It depends if companies like Hanson/Forterra are in the mood to invest in new production capacity here instead of across the channel. Two weeks ago they said.. http://www.constructionenquirer.com/2016/07/06/brick-giant-plans-to-mothball-two-factories/ "Brick making giant Forterra is planning to mothball two plants in Lancashire." "“Given current economic uncertainty and sufficient brick inventory levels, the Board has reviewed the current production plan and has decided to maximise the utilisation of our most efficient brick plants and effectively manage our cost base.” Says imported bricks account for 25% of sales in the UK eg 1 in 4 brick houses is made of imported bricks.

Tell her not the wear it :-)

Some ready assembled manifolds have (had) a bypass built in where the flow and return connect to the manifold. I believe this is to make them easy to add-on to a system that has rads as well. I think a separate circulating pump is only needed on manifolds that have this bypass and most don't. Our manifolds came ready assembled from Osma UFH (who I think were taken over by Wavin?) and they did have this bypasses built into the mixer. I tried persuade the installer to remove them but I was told this would affect the warranty. When I asked Osma they told me a separate circulating pump was needed because the pump on the manifold couldn't be guaranteed to be sufficient to draw water from the TS. I wasn't convinced by their answer. In short I'm pretty sure a separate circulating pump isn't needed on the UFH side of most systems. You need one on the boiler side to circulate water from the boiler to/from the TS but if it's a system boiler there is usually a pump in that.

I assume this is a fully modulating gas boiler? If it was an oil boiler I would go with a TS. If gas I don't think there is much in it between a TC and a UVC. I don't see how having a TS reduces the number of pumps.

Ah but Diesel goes whoosh, gasoline goes boom. Diesel is much safer for lighting bonfires. With Gasoline you can accidentally make a fuel air bomb. Don't ask. They grew back.

+1. If it's new to you check out the index.

One builder reported recently (since the vote) that they still expected sales for the year to meet previous expectations. Many of the house builders were up on the news. Barratt currently down about 20% compared to the day before the vote.

Unless this wet weather continues it might be a bit late to sow seed? In the spring I have to cut some of our grass weekly then in the summer it slows down, the last cut was the first of the fortnightly cuts this year. We turfed our lawn in and if you go that route make absolutely sure you have an adequate water supply. Depending on the size of your lawn one outside tap might not be enough! Ours is quite big and we had two sprinklers going almost 24/7 and they had to be moved around regularly. This was only just enough to stop the turf drying out and shrinking in the hot weather. Forget to move one and an hour later you could see the turf had started to shrink in the dry patch. Would be easy to ruin a area if it was hot and windy.

Ah so that's what those little fences you see next to motorway road works are for. I though they might be to stop hedgehog getting squished.

Just a tip.. If you decide to mix and match beware that there are an infinite number of shades of white. They all look white in the show room but when you get a bath from one place next to a basin or pan from another the difference can be obvious.

I would think about it. What happens if some official turns up and stops work on all four plots (including yours) while they "review the situation"?

We have a copy of the Dec 4th 1978 Daily Star lining a chest of drawers. There is a small article in it about Jim Callaghan threatening the EU over a problem with agricultural subsidies. It says he will stop short of threatening to pull out of the common market.

In case it helps, our Neff (E-Nr H5642N0GB/04) fits in a 600mm wide hole 390mm high hole. Those dims include it's separate bezel so the actual microwave unit is smaller.