Temp

Google can find you a retrospective warranty but I suspect they will be more expensive. Sometimes they are called Latent Defect Insurance. Some might cover you for 10 years from the policy date. Others for what's left of the usual 10 year period... Just first few links that came up.. https://i-c-w.co.uk/products/residential "Our standard residential warranty, also known as Latent Defect Insurance, is a 10-year policy for new builds, renovations and retrospective cover." https://granitebw.co.uk/completed-housing-warranty/ "Key features of a Completed Housing Warranty that we would find for you include: Retrospective warranty for the balance of 10 years from building regulations sign off"

I'm out of date with the costs. Opinions differ on the value of a structural warranty. All I can say is that I know someone who's roof tiles turned out to be faulty and they had severe frost spalling within the 10 year warranty period. Supplier and manufacturer had gone bust. I believe there warranty company may have paid out. Some mortgage lenders will accept an Architect Certificate but read this.. https://www.lexology.com/library/detail.aspx?g=3840e1dc-43f8-4d57-863a-a45e73281625 An architects certificate basically gives mortgage companies confidence that your house wont fall down. eg It was designed by an architect therefore it must be reasonably ok. It's not an insurance policy that pays out if there is a problem.

That doesn't really prove the WiFi signal is good. Its like saying it works when it works. You really need to find out what the phone thinks the WiFi signal strength is when/where its not working, eg when its defaulted back to 4g.

I'd try and find a free WiFi analyser app for iPhone. They will tell you if it's a signal strength issue.

I wouldn't expect the resistance to make a difference in this case but I guess they are cheap enough to try.

The only other thing I can suggest is trying to modify a stat to put a switch in series with the backlight but they may use multiple LED to illuminate the buttons - so working out where to add a switch might not be easy. Running the specified screened cable might work but if you did that and it still happened I wouldn't be totally surprised. At least you could complain to Heatmiser. I think the manual said version 2 of the stat has a proximity sensor. So perhaps Heatmiser could give you a version 1 without proximity sensor?

That snubber is a 100nf capacitor. Edit: Actually its a 100nf capacitor and 100R resistor but the capacitor is the main thing.

Is your BT modem/wifi hub in that cabinet? It's not a great idea to put a device that uses radio in a metal box as it blocks the signal. Have you recently put the cabinet door on?

I use an android app called WiFi Analyzer on my phone. It shows you the signal strength and details of other base stations that might be interfering. Could be the neighbours just set up wifi on the same channel. For reference: Three meters from my base station it reports a signal strength of about -50dBm. A base station the other end of the house is down to around -80 dBm. and speed is affected. I also use www.fast.com as a quick check of my internet speed. It just takes a few seconds to run a test. Currently I'm getting 33 Mbps over broadband and my house wifi to an old phone. Aside: BT use your hub to provide wifi to other BT customers but I would hope this doesn't cause performance issues. https://www.btwifi.co.uk/find/uk/

That would be my choice. Find a 4-5 day slot in the 10 day weather forecast and get the lot done right.

So a total of 175mm? The outside surface of the insulation is cold, the inside warm. In between these two places the temperature transitions between warm and cold. The definition of a "warm roof" construction is that the joists (or rafters) are located near enough to the warm side that condensation doesn't occur on them. If all of the insulation is above the joists then clearly the joists are on the warm side. Your proposal has part of the joist 75mm from the cold outside and 100mm from the warm side. So its actually nearer the cold side than the warm side which isn't good. Ideally you should get a proper condensation risk analysis done. Some insulation suppliers may do one for you.

The list for Outline Planning with all matters reserved seems simple enough. Are you talking about what needs to go in the Design and Access Statement?

A version of BRE365 digest is here.. https://www.eden.gov.uk/media/1072/bre_digest_soakawaysdesign.pdf

What does that include? Perhaps ask the BCO what he needs for the drainage. If he knows the ground is free draining he may not need you to justify the size of the soakaway. Search online for guides like this.. https://www.drainagepipe.co.uk/soakaways-and-membranes/how-do-i-know-what-size-my-soakaway-should-be/ http://www.pavingexpert.com/drain08.html If you have clay or the BCO wants to see it all justified with data you may need a percolation test. If you also need a ground condition report to justify the foundation design do both at same time. If you can provide a JCB and driver it will be cheaper (ask your builder/ground worker?). I think if they have to provide JCB you could be looking at £1500 with the rest being for the drainage design. I might be out of date on costs. The BRE publish a guide to soakaway design (BRE365) which needs data from the percolation test to calculate the size. As I recall the design method in BRE365 is complicated but you might find a simpler method on line that is conservative (eg gives a bigger than necessary size). That's not necessarily a bad thing. In addition to sizing the soakaways you need to specify the location on the site plan and the layout of the pipes (soil stacks, man hole etc). A lot of this is in the relevant approved documents but it takes some reading. If you posted your house and site plans here someone might be able to suggest a layout but you couldn't sue us if it all went wrong.

South Oxfordshire have a check list here.. http://www.southoxon.gov.uk/services-and-advice/planning-and-building/make-planning-application/validation-checklists

How frequently have they been unable to get to you? Our BCO turned up every time we asked.

We have two places where the gutter sometimes overflows. It's because gables and dormers create a lot of roof area feeding water to only a short length of gutter and one down pipe. Nothing we can easily do without fitting an enormous wide custom made gutter/hopper that would look ridiculous. Fortunately it only overflows in really heavy rain not the usual showers.

I think I would find 2200mm pretty darn oppressive and I'm not tall. In a design guide for London I found this... https://www.london.gov.uk/sites/default/files/housing_standards_malp_for_publication_7_april_2016.pdf The nationally described space standard sets a minimum ceiling height of 2.3 meters for at least 75% of the gross internal area of the dwelling. To address the unique heat island effect of London and the distinct density and flatted nature of most of its residential development, a minimum ceiling height of 2.5m for at least 75% of the gross internal area is strongly encouraged so that new housing is of adequate quality, especially in terms of light, ventilation and sense of space.

That's what I did.

I'm in Cambridgeshire where the weather men said it was 38c yesterday. Bedroom was 29C at 10pm. Felt cooler outside so i opened window and put a big oscillating fan on the sill. At midnight it was down to 27C. Fan ran all night blowing air in. Woke up about 6:30 to thunder and rain and stat says its 28C! We have mains pressure cold water at all taps. For last few days its been warm no matter how long you run it for.

Take lots of photos of anything you cover up just in case you need to switch back to the LABC.

Thread already running on green building forum.. http://www.greenbuildingforum.co.uk/newforum/comments.php?DiscussionID=16177&page=1#Item_0 Featured on BBC Radio4 last week.

Where do you stand regarding the building regs, escape from fire part B? Thought you needed windows that open. I mean getting fixed and opening windows to match up might be tricky?

I had a look to see if I could find a design guide from Westminster Council. Google found this which includes Policy CM28.4 on page 21. Google says "you" were consulted about it in October last year so it may have been formally adopted by now. Hope link works. http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=2ahUKEwifirbf28_jAhXwQUEAHeUnDFoQFjACegQIAhAC&url=http%3A%2F%2Ftransact.westminster.gov.uk%2Fdocstores%2Fpublications_store%2FDesign.pdf&usg=AOvVaw1Efq8zD6c4Z4Ik1p9NWxBK and I note it does NOT mention they must be setback only "subordinate" in other ways.

It's very common for planners to want extensions to appear differentiated or subordinate to an existing house. Sometimes it just looks wrong if you try to make an extension appear to be an original part of the house. The bricks rarely match perfectly and it can make the house look out of proportion. Many councils publish residential design guides that give examples of good and bad practice that mention this subordinate issue. Here is an example from Malvern in Worcs.. In a village near me they recently built a very large _new_ house and due to it's size (8 bedrooms?) they made it looks like a 4 bed house with about four side extensions on the left, each getting slightly smaller, some with set back and some in different materials. Looks fabulous.