Temp

Google books had an example.. https://books.google.co.uk/books?id=Zle3AwAAQBAJ&pg=PA289&lpg=PA289&dq="building+preservation+notice"+compensation&source=bl&ots=SqBAN2RJ4d&sig=ACfU3U3oUac1v9ppBI8uQx4y8u-1B9soZQ&hl=en&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwjzpq-cubnoAhVTtXEKHc83DVs4ChDoATAGegQICRAB#v=onepage&q="building preservation notice" compensation&f=false Page 289 "study 13" Mentions fall in house prices due to the delay not being claimable as its an indirect consequence. I suspect you could argue for any directly attributable cost.

If it doesn't require a planning application i believe you start with Form 5: Notice of Chargeable Development instead of form 1.

Yes. The following is my understanding of what needs to be done before starting work. However I cannot accept liability if I've made a mistake. I've never had to do one myself. There are a bunch of CIL forms here. Not all are applicable to all situations... https://www.planningportal.co.uk/info/200136/policy_and_legislation/70/community_infrastructure_levy/5 For something that needs planning permission I believe the sequence of events and forms would be.. Form 1: Additional Information (submitted with planning application) Planning Application Granted Form 2: Assumption of Liability Then one of these depending on the project... Form 7: Self Build Exemption Claim - Part 1 Form 8: Residential Annex Exemption Claim Form 9: Residential Extension Exemption Claim Then before you can actually start any work on site you need to do ALL of the following.. Wait for the exemption to be granted in writing. Make your Building Control Plans Full Plans submission or Building Notice. You probably should start this earlier but you typically need Building Control to confirm they are happy enough with the drawings that you can start work from their perspective. Allow 4-6 weeks for Building Control. Discharge any planning conditions that say "Before any work starts..." or similar. Again allow some weeks if they are complicated conditions. Submit.. Form 6: Commencement Notice And I strongly recommend waiting for confirmation it was received. Then and only then start work. In the case of a self build you must submit.. Form 7: Self Build Exemption Claim - Part 2 Within 6 months of completion of you loose the exemption.

https://www.silvatimber.co.uk/how-to-prevent-wood-decking-becoming-slippery/ They say coated decks are better but don't appear to say what coating they recommend.

Some council's have published guidelines and they contradict each other.. http://www.spelthorne.gov.uk/media/15694/How-GIA-is-measured/pdf/Definition_of_Community_Infrastructure_Levy_GIA.pdf Includes garages, car ports, fuel stores, conservatories, cleaners cupboads. Excludes sheds, greenhouses, solar panels. https://www.stroud.gov.uk/media/241065/calculation-guidance.pdf Includes greenhouses and similar buildings (if a person can go in), indoor swimming pools. Has a different rule for car ports (depends how many walls). Excludes Outdoor pools.

https://www.kingston.gov.uk/info/200380/community_infrastructure_levy/1220/follow_the_cil_process/5

I think it would be a risk. They could argue it had been demolished before a CIL exemption had been granted and a commencement date agreed. https://www.goughs.co.uk/site/library/goughsnews/Breach_of_Community_Infrastructure_Levy.html

I'm reasonably sure what you use it for doesn't effect it's liability for the CIL. Will it be more than 100sqm?

The CIL is charged on outbuildings even if they are covered by Permitted Development. If you need to claim an exemption for the outbuilding then NO you must not start before all the paperwork is done. The first few paragraphs of the Residential Annex Exemption Claim Form (Form Eight) say it must be granted before the commencement date. There are also surcharges they can hit you with if you get the procedure wrong. Beware some web pages say "xyz is exempt" but it's frequently only exempt if you claim the exemption and follow the process to the letter. As for your house extension.. you would need to make another application for the CIL exemption for that and notify them of the commencement date. When building the outbuilding avoid doing any work that could be mistaken as you starting the extension. Eg it might be unwise to clear the ground where the extension will go just because you have a digger on site for the outbuilding. Edit How did that emoticon get there and how do I delete it?

Good tip Danny.

All sorts of people are cancelling. We've just had a windscreen replacement cancel all jobs. This is a big company tied to our insurance co.

Nearest thing I could find.. https://www.plumbnation.co.uk/site/compression-cock-drain-elbows/

That looks ok to me. I didn't realise there was a shower to the right.

The limit is probably the edge of the WC seat and the width of your a...e if that's wider :-) I'd be tempted to build a false wall to provide enough depth to move the pan to the right.

We had similar issue in our WC which also needed to meet part m. Took ages to find a basin that was big enough to wash big hands but not too deep front to back to allow the required gap between basin and opposite wall. Ended up using wall mounted taps and spout which we now like a lot.

Our interior beams were done with Danish Oil 12 years ago. Only maintenance need since has been to remove dust and cobwebs. Floors were done with Osmo. Only had to recoat a WC so far.

Daily mail is a bit slow. I reported on this idea last Tuesday.. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-8136299/Doctors-turns-one-ventilator-nine-genius-DIY-mechanics.html

As they are inside I suggest testing both Danish Oil and Osmo to see which you prefer. Small samples of Osmo are available cheap but I think you might prefer Danish on beams. Each to his own. https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-polyx-oil?gclid=Cj0KCQjwmdzzBRC7ARIsANdqRRnRo1NrZzs1M4x_1LbrIgptE1XQdZWINWjsKFIzKNfbu-v3ErOg73MaAmvqEALw_wcB

PS: If you need to clean up a lot of heavily weathered oak I found a cheap Silverline MOP with a 36 grit disc to be the best method.

If these beams are external you need to decide if you want them to go silver or stay honey colour. We wanted them to stay honey colour so... 12 years ago I started with Danish Oil but found it needs far too much maintenance. Ideally you need to recoat it every year if you want it to stop it going grey. I was typically only managing two coats every other year and found it too much work. Some years back someone recommend Osmo UV Protection Oil... https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-uv-protection-oil?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9tbzBRDVARIsAMBplx_N4V-DSbaWxJpKb09f-mvyNTdk_iFW8WHAZvnDZ6BQlDv9jNxTJxgaAmAnEALw_wcB And I've found that way better than Danish Oil. Costs double but lasts at least twice as long. Only thing is... Freshly sanded Oak is a bit white. When you apply Danish Oil it darkens to a nice honey colour. If you just use Osmo it may stay a bit white, at least to my eye. So on freshly (re)sanded oak I've been using a coat or two of Danish followed by two of Osmo. The Danish changes colour as it dries so wait before deciding it's still too white. Neither Danish or Osmo need sanding required between coats, just slap it all on with the largest brush you can get in the tin easily. For internal oak we used Danish Oil on beams and doors and Osmo Hard Wax Oil on floors... https://www.wood-finishes-direct.com/product/osmo-polyx-oil?gclid=Cj0KCQjw9tbzBRDVARIsAMBplx-9_aKFxpq53rfCnwQWaogoySRDTIAi_fOwSe0BWnNC37Da9gOL6M4aAmemEALw_wcB

+1

12 Years ago the SE we used for our build (between Huntingdon and Kettering) was Geoffrey Thompson at T&F Design in Saffron Walden. I don't know if he's still there.

Call/email them? I don't know but you could try sticking a bit of solvent weld pipe to the bend (eg not the joint area) and leave over night if that sticks well the joint should be ok.

Don't think the CIL has been introduced in Scotland (yet) but in England yes it would. There could also be a problem with the self build exemption. For example if you rushed to start building (in order to preserve a grant beyond its 3 year limit) and then at a later date applied for an increase in area under Section 73 - there would be a problem because works had already started. I've no idea if you would become liable for the CIL on the lot of just the increase in area.

The £ is down over past week but the big fall was through 2016 when it fell from 1:36 to around 1:11 to the euro. It's currently 1:08. Price rises might be due to supply issues rather than exchange rates. Radio reported shortage of European truck drivers willing to travel abroad because they might not be allowed back.