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FFL (Finished Floor Level) is before any floor finishes. So after screed and/or chipboard flooring but before carpet or tile... https://www.designingbuildings.co.uk/wiki/Finished_floor_level#:~:text=Finished floor level (FFL) refers,any finishes have been applied.&text=The floor above may be,the floor below FFL 23%2C000. Most doors can be trimmed top and bottom. Check if yours can and by how much. If so you can set them a bit low and adjust later.

Not done it but I'm aware there can be issues. You not only need to have possession of the land for the required time but it must be "to the exclusion of all others". So make sure all the fences are present and intact. I would not replace any just make sure there are no gaps or evidence of a neighbour taking a short cut when they come over for coffee. Possession must be adverse. If the owner has ever given permission for you to use it you can't claim adverse possession. You must never acknowledge someone else owns the land. There is a sneaky way to stop an adverse possession claim. The owner rocks up (after say 12 years but before you have been granted title) and says he will sell you the land for a nominal £10. You accept the deal and he pulls out. Your previously valid claim to own it by adverse possession has just gone up in smoke because by accepting the offer you have acknowledged he owns it. Check out.. https://england.shelter.org.uk/legal/security_of_tenure/squatters/adverse_possession

They may know what they are doing but the key to tarmac is making sure the base is prepared correctly. If that's not done right the tarmac will breakup. This might be why the previous tarmac failed years ago? If they are going to spend money it might be worth doing it to an adoptable standard. Adoption would make future repairs the council's responsibility. Even if it wasn't adopted the improved specification would reduce frequency of repairs. There is bound to be information on the prep required on the paving expert web site but the council will have specific requirements.

Ask him on what grounds. I can only think he is referring to the legislation referring to paving front gardens. That requires PP if you don't deal with surface water running off on site (eg using soakaway).

I think 45 degrees is the steepest "angle of repose" (https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angle_of_repose ) recommended for a soil bank. Any steeper and you need some sort of retaining wall. I'd allow space for a french drain and a 45 degree bank between your wall and the boundary. If you want to make it closer perhaps look at a retaining wall using railway sleeper(s).

Welcome to the forum.

Our frameless shower came with chrome plated U channel to sit the glass in. We fixed that to the tray with a clear silicone sealer then used same to seal the glass into the channel. Been fine for 12 years.

+1 He should not itemise it on your bill. It should be factored into/hidden in his costs. A plumber doesn't itemise for use of the spanner or blow lamp he brings with him and uses himself but ultimately you do pay for them. It might be different if other people used the scaffolding in a addition to the MC. Did you hire subcontractors that also used it? If not ask him to hide it or you may both have to deal with VAT on the hire element.

Sounds like the window might be set too far outboard? Eg So far outboard that the plasterboard contacts the outer leaf? It should be inline with the cavity so that doesn't happen. Typically metal straps/brackets that clip into the sides of the frame are used to support it in that position.

Check if the Party Wall Act applies to the work they have done. Note that the Act covers much more than work on party walls. It covers digging their foundations within a certain distance of your house. If it does, and they did not comply with its provisions, then any court case is more likely to go in your favour. Check if your house insurance includes legal protection. Sometimes they will pay to fight your case but not always.

+1 and measure your openings. Our very experienced builder never purchased anything based on the plan dimensions. He always measured what had actually been built. He'd been caught out too many times.

If you are importing direct from Egypt (outside the EU) you need to check if there are any tarriffs or duty to be paid in addition to UK VAT. Typically imports will be held at customs or a clearing agent/forwarder until you have been contacted and paid up. There will also be a handling fee for the agent.

It turned out the stone flooring we liked had to be imported from somewhere like Greece as it was out of stock in the UK. UK vendor gave us predicted dates but warned shipments frequently got delayed 4-6 weeks while waiting for space on a ship. They were right. We also imported some light fittings from Belgium and had a failed attempt to import a glass door. Seller returned our deposit after failing to deliver. You can certainly reclaim VAT paid in the EU at the moment but after Brexit the VAT situation on imports makes it complicated.

Bit of googling found.. http://www.bonningtonsurveys.co.uk/assets/samples/TSA%20Client%20Guide%20-%20Topographical%20Surveys_Issue%203_HR.pdf Page 5..

Has the cavity been filled with insulation? Sometimes that can cause damp to bridge across. Another source is a corroded or badly installed intel above the window. It should divert any water on the inside of the outer leaf to the outside, typically through weep holes on a modern house. Sometimes if these are blocked or missing it runs left and right then over the ends and down the side of the window frame into this area. Bit hard to tell what's going on without window out and/or a camera into the cavity. Think I'd look at a damp resistant plaster or perhaps expanding foam and a uPVC cover strip as others have mentioned. If it reappears more investigation needed.

I think "supervisory services" are also standard rated so be careful if the MC lists his own time as "supervisor".

It has to be under 2.5m within 2m of the boundary. Elsewhere the eaves must be 2.5m but the rest can be upto 3m (for a single pitch roof) or 4m (for a dual pitched roof). So it might be possible to slope the roof down from the patio doors towards the boundary depending on layout. Is in the corner of the plot?

I know they are for HMO but they will be based on what the council think is a reasonable minimum. If you need planning permission and the planners think it's too small you could also point to that guidance and say if it's good enough for an HMO then it should be acceptable for a single dwelling.

Got a spare tile? I'd have the loo out and replace it.

Typically they write to you saying they believe your house will be complete on (date) for council tax purposes. I wrote back with the date I believed we would complete and they agreed it.

Many council's have guide for the size of a bedsit (in an HMO for example)... https://www.rbkc.gov.uk/pdf/HMO%20standards%20bedsits%20and%20studios.pdf Work the numbers yourself but it looks like you need.. Bedsit 12-14sqm Kitchen 4-6sqm Bathroom 4sqm? So around 20-25sqm Plus for stairs?

Previous thread..

Shop around and haggle with local solicitors. Point out it's essentially just a remortgage. There might be an online co that specialises in remortgage conveyancing that is cheaper? Just make sure they aren't scammers.

I notice you have a stone lintel above the window on the left. It's possible they plan to insert another above the patio door later. (Eg they didn't have one when they were building that section hence the untidy spacing and gaps). I would question them on this and make sure it gets done. Wouldn't want them to go out of stock so you get one that doesn't match.