Temp

I think I prefer your very first drawing with the manifold. However I would add a stub stack with AAV on the 110mm pipe on the right hand side near WC2. Also allow room for a small AAV near basin 2 on their pipe. Ideally instead of the manifold you would run two pipes through the wall to the stack where they would connect into it at different heights (thats in the Approved Doc) but if you can't do that then the manifolds should be ok.

I would work out how many lumens you need first. Typical kitchen downright is around 400 Lumens. I suspect most bathrooms would have perhaps 4 of those? So you need a total of around 1600 lumens. Sadly the web page for the light engines https://www.fibreopticfx.co.uk/fibre-optic-lighting/light-engines/ only has the power in Watts which isn't a lot of use. Think I would want to know the cost of replacing the lamp in the light engine.

Before we applied for PP I took my plans and artists impression drawings and knocked on all the neighbours doors to introduce myself and show them off. Also made visit to the head of the parish council who lived 10 houses down the road.

Yes. Its called free speech. If there was a proposal to build a factory or erect a 400ft wind turbine next door to your house you would want the right to campaign against it.

Lorry drivers don't want to deliver to the UK because they will be stuck here. Thats why supermarkets are predicting a shortage of some imported veg.

I'm confused why an oven has a demo mode? Does it roll the pastry and do the washing up or just sit there looking hot?

I believe it has to be received by the deadline. The receiption desk at my council office will give a receipt if you hand deliver close to a deadline and want to be sure it arrives in the planning department in time. Not sure if they still do that due to Covid.

France bans ALL travel from the UK - including truck and lorry drivers. https://www.cityam.com/new-france-bans-all-travel-from-the-uk-including-truck-and-lorry-drivers/

Tricky question as showers are subjective. Some googling for data... https://waterwise.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/United-Utilities_Water-and-Energy-Efficient-Showers_Project-Report.pdf So which type do you prefer? If it was me I'd want at least 10L/min but I'm out of date on the water regulations.⁰) It surprisingly difficult to get data. Very few shower makers provide the graphs of flow vs pressure needed to work out how they will perform. They typically just specify a pressure range over which they will "work".

How deep are the foundations? Trench foundations are typically wider than external walls so you could dig down and build a single brick/block "wall" up to support the patio door sill.

Hand deliver it.

I wouldn't post it. Last posting date is rapidly approaching.

https://news.sky.com/story/amp/brexit-french-fishermen-warn-they-will-take-action-if-uk-doesnt-get-a-deal-12166812 "French fishermen warn they will 'take action' if UK doesn't get a deal." "Laurent says he and other French fishermen "won't accept" the UK ending the transition period without a deal." "Everyone is impatient to find out what's happening, because some of my colleagues have got a lot of gear out in those waters. "Personally, I have €40,000 worth of lobster cages out in UK waters at the moment."

I agree with others.. Work tops - If the supply and installation was all on one invoice then I agree with others that it should have been zero rated to you. If the supply and installation are separate invoices from different companies then the supply should be standard rated and the installation zero rated. You could reclaim the VAT on the supply. The kitchen work tops you will have to explain to HMRC why the joiners name is on the invoice.

It occurs to me that if you got the original engineers report from the seller of a property you purchased the you might have a claim against the seller. For example if the report meant you paid more for the property than you would otherwise.

PS When we purchased our plot it came with a free ground condition report the previous owner had done. I paid a nominal fee to have the report assigned to me by the ground works co because the small print said it wasn't transferable. I could have just used it but wouldn't have been covered by the liability insurance they had.

You can't claim for damages you were "due to" have incurred. You can only claim for damages actually and necessarily incurred. You're entitled to your money back (zero as it was free?) and any costs necessarily incurred to get it that money back (eg cost of getting an expert witness to comment on the quality of the original work). However you would still have needed to pay a new SE to do the work again. You can't claim that bit back so you may not get all of the money you paid out on the new SE. If I buy a new car and it doesnt work I could get my money back, and the taxi fare or car rental incurred while it was off the road but not the cost of a new car as that would leave me up a new car overall. The judge might also say it was unreasonable of you to spend money for an expert witness to get back the "fee" you paid the first SE (because that was zero). He might say you should have asked for your money back. The situation might be different if you can prove negligence but that can be difficult if you never actually incurred any damages. Perhaps you haven't mentioned something that would help your case?

Think I mentioned 150mm first, but I think that's normally the figure used when you have a wall at the eaves rather than at a verge. Can probably be less at a verge.

If I've understood correctly it heats the store from say 60 to 70C in about an hour with no heating load. Power = Energy/Time = (4200 * 500 * 10) / (60 * 60) = 5.8KW I think I would be inclined to do an experiment and let the store go cold (say 30C). Then with nothing calling for heat fire up the boiler and measure more accurately how fast it heats up and redo the sums as it sounds like its down on rated power.

He might reply that it was zero rated already. Especially if the invoice didn't specify the percentage. Does the quote say anything?

I'd be tempted to leave it open. I think less likely to block and easier to clean it did.

Do you have any of the discussion in writing?

@PeterW might correct me but i think he was saying the same as me. Eg there are three cases depending on height of the wall.. If its tall enough go up 150mm as normal. If its marginal go up to the undercloak as per your drawing. If its too short make a hidden gutter.

Got any photos of that?

I can't comment on all of it but he probably did this when he found he couldn't get the joist into position (poor planning?). It's not elegant but if the joist is fixed to the wall I think its ok. I might be out of date but I think chemical anchor bolts are normally used for fixing wall plates to brickwork. They probably could be retrofitted. eg by drilling through the wall plate into the brick (not a mortar joint), injecting the adhesive and inserting lengths of threaded rod. When set washers and nuts added. See what others say. PS: I might question the lack of a padstone under the ends of the steel above the patio doors but its not always needed.