Temp

Something to check... Is the CIL mentioned in the Planning Grant and if so has it been paid? If not be aware that you probably can't claim the exemption because work has started.

Sometimes there is a rotary lever/knob on the pump. This one is set to max = III

I think its possible to have full flow even with air in the pipe. The air bubble acts like a narrowing of the pipe so water moves faster while going past it.

Youre probably right but I thought the need for self closing doors in houses had been changed? Edit: Yes still needed for 2nd floor doors and up.

If its a thread that is likely to have recent additions try the "Unread Content" button top right or possibly the search facility.

Air lock? If that turns out to be the cause make sure there is corrossion inhibitor in the system after its been sorted.

+1 I purchased one. Used a few times then it failed because my garage got too cold and the water left in it burst the casing.

Honeywell range... USA only? https://www.alarmgrid.com/browse/recessed-sensors

Not sure about the source but just 60p each. Not addressable. https://www.wish.com/product/5c9228dc553c6379313aee0a?hide_login_modal=true&from_ad=goog_shopping&_display_country_code=GB&_force_currency_code=GBP&pid=googleadwords_int&c={campaignId}&ad_cid=5c9228dc553c6379313aee0a&ad_cc=GB&ad_curr=GBP&ad_price=6.00&campaign_id=6493229882&exclude_install=true&gclid=Cj0KCQiA0MD_BRCTARIsADXoopZ9ivOFvcDzz53tdOnCmMXrqcBHMtneIl8QgKN-DarMET1kiOoTa7UaAldfEALw_wcB&share=web

I'm surprised a council would consider a change to any planning condition as non-material. Planning conditions have to be "necessary in planning terms" or they aren't enforceable and can be appealed.

Google suggests the Texecom CQR FC505 series might be suitable but they look like simple window switches with no identification capability so you would need to walk around to find which window was open if they were all in series on one wire. Need a 20mm hole so not very small. https://cpc.farnell.com/cqr-security/fc505-wh/contacts-flush-mount-white/dp/SR08422 http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1700911.pdf

Humm.. I doubt you want a separate wire from every sensor back to the HA controller, it would make much more sense to have multiple sensors on one cable. That means they need to identify themselves to the HA so that the controller can tell which window is open. This must have been solved by alarm/HA companies years ago. Which HA system are you looking at?

I don't think it can be that as he says the flow indicator suggests there is flow.

Clever marketing I'm afraid. The "channels" are just wires inside the wiring centre. They go from clock inputs to the connectors for the room stats. No timer inside. Some people will have one time clock connected to the wiring centre so they would connect all stats to the ?1 pin. Others want upstairs and downstairs to be controlled by different clocks so the upstairs stats might be connected to the ?1 pin and downstairs to the ?2 pin. If you have fully programmable room stats with built in timers (like me) or a HA system you just ignore those clock terminals and connect the stats/Fibaro to L&N.

It looks virtually identical to my Heatmiser wiring centre and isn't complicated. Nothing in it to program or override. For example the timer stuff mentioned in the manual needs a separate time clock that does all that stuff. If you don't have that timer the wiring Centre itself is basically just a big OR gate to control the pump.

I can only think of two reasons.. 1) Its got a bad insulation problem (no insulation under the UFH) 2) the water flowing in those loops isn't going to the room you think it is. If you don't mind being cold for awhile I'd try an experiment. Before you go to bed turn down all the stats so all rooms are off. Let house get cold over night. First thing turn up the stat for just that room. Check flow and pipe temperatures on that loop warm up (and that no others do). Wait 1-2 hours. Then see if you can detect any change in floor temperature in that room. If not go looking to see if the floors in any other rooms are showing evidence of warming up. Thats what makes me think the loops dont go to the rooms you think.

Ok if the room temperature will be monitored by a separate HA wireless device I don't see the problem its as you said..

Occurs to me that for the above to be possible you may need more wires to the room stat than planned. L & N to power the stat then wires 2) and 3) above. That's a 4 core and earth rather than a three core and earth.

Ok so I've had a look at the Fibaro manual here.. https://manuals.fibaro.com/content/manuals/en/FGS-2x4/FGS-2x4-T-EN-1.0.pdf It has two relay outputs (Q1 and Q2) but the other relay terminals inputs appear to be connected together internally to the IN terminal. That makes it slightly more difficult to use both channels but not impossible. I think it would be necessary to use Room Thermostats that have volt free relay contacts (eg not the stat shown on the Heatmiser wiring diagram you posted as that only has a switched live output). Firstly I would power both the Fibaro and the room stat from the wiring centre L & N. The control signal path I would wire up as follows. The basic logic pathway would be... Live > Fibaro > Room Stat > Wiring Centre > Actuator Wiring would be.. 1) L on Wiring Centre ------> Fibaro IN (Can be a jumper/link at the Fibrao) 2) Fibaro Q1 output -------> Stat 1 Relay Input 3) Stat 1 Relay Output ------> Switched Live 1 on WC Then for the other channel just need 4) Fibaro Q2 output -------> Stat 2 Relay Input 5) Stat 2 Relay Output ------> Switched Live 2 on WC In operation this would mean that the UFH Loop actuator would only be enabled when both the Fibaro AND the room stat call for heat. I assume you would never want the Fibaro to over rule the room stat and call for heat when room stat was already satisfied. The opposite is possible (eg Fibaro turn off heat when stat isn't satisfied).

Deleted my reply as I'm gong to have to read the figaro manual.

Grant say the return temperature should be less than 55C (and over 40C). https://www.grantuk.com/media/1294/vortex-outdoor-modules-installation-and-servicing-manual-doc52-rev00-october-2004.pdf

Also noticed this.. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/vat-and-overseas-goods-sold-directly-to-customers-in-great-britain-from-1-january-2021 Quote: "Low value consignment relief (LVCR), which is an import VAT exemption for goods valued at £15 or less, has been removed.." Paying a bit of VAT isn't a big deal as long as the post office don't charge a £9.99 fee to process it. Edit: Sorry its £8.. https://personal.help.royalmail.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/7208/~/help-with-paying-customs-fees So that 10p washer ordered from ebay and sent from China could end up being £8.12p.

Here you go.. https://www.gov.uk/guidance/vat-and-overseas-goods-sold-directly-to-customers-in-great-britain-from-1-january-2021 The break point is £135.

I last looked at this some time ago so I might be wrong now or out of date.. As I recall the process and VAT treatment is different depending on the order value. For small orders I believe they are meant to register with HMRC, charge UK VAT and remit this to HMRC. For larger orders I think they they are meant to ship it VAT free (no EU or UK VAT) as you will be charged UK VAT on arrival at a port of entry. Someone will call telling you how much VAT to pay and what their handling fee is. In other cases the post man put a note in your post box with a demand for the VAT. This is meant to happen already for orders from ourside the EU (China for example). I can't remember where the break point is but think its in the £50 to £150 range. My guess is some small companies may not bother to make changes for the UK market. They may just continue to quote "inc EU VAT" prices to everyone that visits their web site. If you pay that beware you might have to pay UK VAT as well.

I was just thinking on similar lines... Those two don't quite match. You have the membrane above the counter batten. One reason for the counter batten can be to form a gap between membrane and batten so that any water that does get past the tiles can run down to the gutter and not pool above the battens. Its important on a roof with wooden battens because without it the membrane can be pressed against the batten. Pollen and other sources of dirt can collect above the batten and form a gunk/slime that seals any tiny gap that might exist. Eventually the timber batten can rot. Not an issue with metal battens? The way the tiles are lapped they depend on the interlock between adjacent tiles to be water tight. I also wonder if on one or two tiles the interlock broke without apparent damage to the tile.