MJNewton

There's every chance I wouldn't ever need to - it was more question if curiosity really as I'd never given it much of a second thought on laminate.

That's what I've got in the back of my mind, but will approach him a but more open in the first instance asking for advice. To be honest I'd be surprised if he didn't offer to sort it.

Interesting thanks. Will see what the plasterer says / can do but good to know there might be backup options if a 'conventional' fix doesn't work out.

Better than the worktop though. £3.5k! ? (It was said a bit tongue in cheek, same with the slippers although I do often find myself up ladders with slippers on wondering what on earth I'm up to!)

I often hear 1000mm as a commonly quoted minimum acceptable distance (with the likes of online planners that warn of issues configured this way too), but then I guess you're not call Big Jimbo for nothing! ?

Okay, thanks all. Hopefully I won't have cause to climb up but as you say if needs must then will go carefully! I'm thinking duvet, cardboard, plywood, slippers etc. Or perhaps some sort of cantilever setup with the rest of the family perched on the other end. I must admit the cost took me by surprise... I designed a kitchen layout and got a price... £3.5k. Sounded good I thought. Added on a worktop and it jumped to £7k. Eh? Did I double up on all my quantities? I've only ever bought one worktop before and I think that was £150, if that. I naively didn't realise quartz and other stone worktops were *so* expensive compared to laminate. Of course, it was too late by then - my wife's 'wants' mechanism has an irreversible ratchet so there was no turning back.

I don't mean from scratches and dents, but standing on it... There must've been a couple of occasions in the past where I've had to stand on my chipboard laminate worktop, whether that be to reach something or - most likely - perform some aspect of DIY. For our new kitchen, however, we've opted for a quartz worktop (30mm thick) and wondered whether this sort of practice would be out of the question? It also got me thinking about related questions such as whether there is any flex in it at all, how strong the joins are etc. Can anyone that has some knowledge of them shed some light?

Thanks both. I'll give the plasterer a call and have a chat before starting anything myself.

I think I might get the plasterer to do it.. I'm not confident I'd be ae to get a flat/flush enough finish, particularly given the unforgiving nature of this room as I mentioned.

Thanks Nod. I did think (fear) it might be a case of having to make it worse before it can get better! How deep do I need to be making the V? Through to the plaster? Tape? Board? I suppose if one of the latter two I'd discover whether there's any tape or not). Is the V so that there's enough body and surface area for the filler to attach? Any particular filler you'd recommend? I did think of calling the plasterer, for advice rather than blame/remedy. He was a nice bloke so he might even pop round to take a look.. and maybe even sort it (I'd be more than happy to pay if need be). Incidentally, it's a really unforgiving ceiling for blemishes - full width sliding doors at one end and quite large room with the entrance at the other. I swear even dust would cast a shadow...

A few months back I had our new open plan extension skimmed and following the mist coat noticed some slight cracking along a couple of joints in the ceiling. I didn't think too much of them at the time and just filled them prior to the final top coats of paint. Today I noticed they're back, here's one (well, two - there's a less visible small one coming from the corner): The cracks have come back *exactly* as they were when first spotted and the main one happens to be on a joint line which I am assuming is the issue. In particular, I carried the resilient bars through to the extension from the main room and I did notice that board joints aren't nearly as well supported when butted up over a resilient bar as they are on a joist. I wish I'd put some timber behind these particular joints to keep them firmly anchored together but that ship has sailed. I am pretty sure the plasterer taped all the joins - I saw it in loads of other places and surely if he'd missed one out he'd spot it when going around? For context of zoomed out location showing its location: As you can probably make out the extension roof is mostly lantern opening and so there's likely not all that much rigidity in the whole structure and I am assuming this leads to ever so slight movement. I do hear the odd creak every so often e.g. when the sun is blazing and warming things up, and I am assuming this is normally. The crack is only really visible from one part of the room... this being where the sofa's going to be going for watching TV... Grrr. Any ideas how to deal with this? The movement will presumably continue (the extension was built around 18 months ago so if it's still moving around now it surely always will) and so I'm thinking something flexible is required? I don't need to necessarily get rid of the crack entirely - I just want it less of a blot on what is otherwise a perfectly pristine white room. I'm gutted really, and whilst I recognise I'm learning as I go along this extension is probably going to be my last so I'll be stuck with it for a while! I've Googled for advice and found loads - too much really. I'm hoping someone here might be able to say 'X will sort that no problem'...

For what's it worth, try and remember you are installing MVHR for its practical benefits not aesthetics and so if some evidence of its existence can't be hidden away then so be it. A bit like radiators. (Of course I don't practice what I preach. I had many a sleepless night trying to work out how to retrofit our MVHR with minimum visibility. We had a simpler layout to deal with though (although did have 2.5 floors) and I was lucky with some built-in wardrobes, joist directions and the fact they were I-Joists so could have large holes drilled through them if necessary. Still difficult and I look back now with some pride - and surprise - at what I achieved! )

I think that could bit could be an issue as you'd be trying to push (or pull) four 75mm pipe's worth of air through one. The increased volume of air through that pipe would likely result in noise not only from air speed but back pressure also. I stand to be corrected but I would imagine it'd only really work with a large diameter pipe to feed the downstairs distribution box, just as would be the case in a conventional setup.

...which in case you were still wondering 'so what?' means that it therefore stores energy (when compressed) which can be dangerous if something suddenly gives. Shouldn't be an issue with low pressure plumbing testing though I wouldn't have thought. (I have visions now of an AAV blowing a hole in the roof and landing in next door's garden...)

I would expect it to be snooker table flat. On second thoughts...

Something to add: If adding on a new roof on top, would there be edge detailing challenges? (Or would they be ripped off to give a simpler base on which to lay the boards and new edging?)

Taking a step back, and reflecting on my own very similar experience, is your main concern the (lack of) fall or the quality of finish? I am a but more relaxed about less-than-perfect falls with modern materials, not least given that when I started doing loads of research about the issues - not from forum discussions but in standards documents, manufacturers literature etc - it really was more about the consequences of the extra loading of standing water, freezing causing safety issues etc thus not particularly significant for most domestic situations. As some one (in here I think) told me; a roof with a hole in it will leak whether there's a fall or not. If it's the quality issue then that can surely be resolved without replacing or building over the roof from what I've read from others on here that know about GRP. For what it's worth our building inspector's opinion was not to rip the roof off and start again. I don't think we discussed building over though unfortunately. Just wanted to chuck that in given what I went through as the situations are uncannily similar. (Same roofer perhaps?! ) Do also be mindful that when you post up 'shoddy' work on the Internet it really gets ripped apart and you end up feeling like you've got the world's worst house and are the world's worst customer for letting it happen. Reality is there are probably thousands of these 'shoddy' roofs around that have simply never been offered up for critique. Remember: I see them all the time on the TV and soon so will you...

My trick - which admittedly is yet to be proven to work as it's my first time with downlighters - is that I put some thinnish (~10mm thick) pieces of wood up inside the hole for the downlighter spring wings to sit on. My thinking was that when it comes to pulling any lights down/out the stress will be on those pieces of wood (and distributed across the board) rather than the delicate edges of the hole. I secured them in place with a couple of small blobs of silicone just to stop them moving around in the process whilst not preventing removal should the need arise. Should work I think?

As would resilient bars (I think) which I suppose is a form of counter batonning. It obviously helps with reduce noise transmission which is why I thought it worth mentioning. I learnt this having ripped my lounge ceiling down (boards and bars) and discovering a couple of joists were creaking when walked on. It turns out it was the nails used in the joist hangers - the joists were moving ever so slightly moving causing them to scrape on the metal. Replacing the nails with screws cured it, but then so would replacing the resilient bars (which I did eventually) given we didn't have the issue beforehand.

Ha... Good question. To be honest I try not to dwell on it given we are where we are! I seem to have got increasingly picky - obsessive in fact - about detail and perfection and I really don't like it. It takes the fun out of everything and makes me feel so anxious. This extension build has really exercised this affliction but to the point now where actually I *expect* things to go 'wrong' (to my picky eyes!), and can almost laugh about it when it does given how predictable it has become. My Dad's the same so it could be result of nature, if not nurture. I hasten to add though that the trades have long gone... this is now me screwing up. For example I haven't done the best job of the final decoration of our new family room - or at least in my mind I haven't. Everyone else thinks it's amazing. I'm not pleased though. That said, having inspected the plaster/paint finish on the rest of the existing house I've realised we've been living in a right state without knowing it and yet for some reason it never bothered me one bit, and doesn't now! A comment in an American decorating column talking about perfection really struck a chord with me - something along the lines of 'you stop focusing/worrying about something when its no longer the newest thing in the room', which when you substitute the right words for the particular situation you're in is really true I think. Back to your question though; I am satisfied that our roof won't leak - or at least no sooner than anyone elses - and that's surely what matters given it's the sole job of the roof. My eye does get drawn to other people's flat roofs - even on drone shots on TV I find myself evaluating any flat roof I can see (and there's some shockers out there!) - so I think there's still a niggle in my mind about how mine stacks up against others. It also pleases me to see a small pool of water on someone elses roof and them seemingly being able to carry on with their lives. I don't regret not getting the whole thing ripped up and replaced. I think! It might be a bit different in my case as I am convinced the fall was just a mistake from a likeable, honest, respectable and otherwise competent builder. I can't bring myself to punish someone for that, but maybe I'm soft and not seeing it wouldn't actually be that happening.

Another update to my experience a few posts back: Leaving aside the fact these damage/incorrect/missing item problems shouldn't really happen, DIY Kitchens have been really good in sorting out them out and I've never been left feeling I have to fight for a resolution; it's all just been about the nuances and options for each particular case. The missing items have all been sorted, as have the replacement of the wrongly-sent drawers. I've accepted the unit that I asked to be dry assembled but was sent fully glued and screwed (well, stapled!) and the cracked drawer front has been replaced. The cabinet door with permanent marker was sorted with WD40 and the one with a chip was replaced... but the replacement is also damaged! The pre-cut hinge hole screw holes don't look great: Those inserts are apparently Blum's 'knock-in dowels' intended to improve on chipboard screws (alone). I am assuming, however, there must surely be some compromise in strength in the situation above? I've calmly put my concerns forward but am awaiting a response (sometimes it's been instant, sometimes a couple of days - I think they're maxed out). Should I insist on (another!) replacement? Incidentally, this door will be connected to an integrated fridge/freezer door so I don't know if that causes more or less stress on hinges than a 'normal' cupboard would. For once I'm fairly relaxed about these issues and not in any rush as there's nothing stopping me from cracking on with the general installation (well, there is, but it's nothing to do with DIY Kitchens - just me being slow). It's definitely helped that there's been no resistance to resolution. I'm also really pleased with the quality of the rest of the kitchen. The Blum components - drawers in particular - are absolutely excellent, but of course they're not exclusive to DIY Kitchens. Incidentally, the replacement items arrived on a one-man delivery van who appeared to be basically driving round the entire South West dropping off and picking up remedial items and, presumably, one-off purchases that they allow from existing customers. As would be expected, all my stuff was right at the back of the van and I must say I felt sorry for the next customer on the round who thought he'd bought a shiny new oven but actually had bought a step/climbing aid for the guy to use to repeatedly clamber over everything. He was also being a bit rough with my stuff, but thankfully the packaging is really good and I ended up hopping onboard myself to give him a hand (actually, just to save my own stuff and that guy's oven!).

This post gave me a sense of deja vu following similar issues I had a couple of years back, except in my case it was using a liquid membrane coating. Our roof had a fall issue although it did have a slight onel, just not as big/consistent a one as is generally advised as discussed above. The issue with our coating was also a case of arguably-shoddy workmanship in areas (combined with a fussy customer who panics about everything but I'm not suggesting that's you here!). We ended up not ripping the roof up given the potential risk of damage (known and unknown, noting there was also a very-well built and dimensioned roof lantern cutout taking up the majority) to the rest of the works and the fact that our roof coating was specified as being suitable for perfectly flat roofs anyway (and apparently this being a common installation in other countries that moved on from felt etc many years ago). The poor finish in some areas was something I could learn to live with given they gave it another coating for added reassurance (to me as I was the only one worried) regarding waterproofness. It also helped that whilst I didn't know the roofer I did trust and respect the builder who subbed him and so was willing to go along with the proposal following some input from the technical director of the company that supplied the product. I think you've had all the technical guidance you need already; all I would add is the advice not to let it consume you. I was really bothered by it - upset even - and just reading this thread reminded me how bad it was! Incidentally, our poor fall is something that still haunts me a little bit today... the roof gets really dirty and I've always wondered if a greater fall would've reduced this. Perhaps it's more to do with the grey colour and slightly sheltered location though, particularly as even the full-pitch roof on the main house gets moss, lichens and no doubt loads of dirt trapped on it and that doesn't seem to bother me. But then I can't see that 2m from a bedroom window...

...and if the valve refuses to fully stop the water despite being closed then screw on a blanking cap. (I prefer to do that anyway with any unused valves for belt and braces)

Sorry, yes, I agree it'd be B and so 1000mm above the surface. I thought you were suggesting/thinking 2300mm above the surface...

But you said 'tomato'!