MJNewton

Now I *did* go for 5A outlets, but in every location there's a double 13A socket too so at worst they'd only become redundant. I've always been a fan of them pre smart lighting (we don't tend to go for room (ceiling) lights anymore), and I'm always mindful of the potential need to go back to that method of control one day... whether that's due to us selling up or - more likely perhaps - the wife not wishing to adapt to a complex, convoluted and sometimes uncertain method of 'just turning a bloody light on!'!... ?

That 80L/s flow rate target is surely for the whole house though, not individual rooms?!

I stand to be corrected, but I don't think British Standards have any authority in and of themselves; only indirectly through reference from other things (such as building regulations) that do. Furthermore, BS6229 is a 'Code of Practice' rather than a 'standard', which may be relevant.

For me it was the desire to avoid being trapped within a single ecosytem, and also the dissatisfaction of certain aspects of a particular supplier's offering. I figured that if I can break the system down into smaller component parts I can pick the best-of-breed for each and reap the flexibility of mixing and matching. I know you said table lamps, but I think my thinking stemmed from wondering how best to control the GU10 downlights in the kitchen - there are only five but that was enough to make me think twice about forking out for five smart bulbs, particularly as none of them gave a specific feature that we were keen on ('warm dimming' as per their tungsten cousins). We ended up with bulbs from Ikea - warm dimming and a CRI >90 for only £2.50 each, and conventional (Varilight V-Pro) wall switch dimmers. I should say (admit) I am not ruling out smart bulbs though - more just finding my way around without committing too soon.

I've only got three so far - a 2.5 controlling some patio and garden lights (only really using the sunset timer on it, but it was a cheap way of doing even just that and gives the added benefit of controlling them remotely), a 1PM powering the MVHR (monitoring power consumption and acting on behalf of the smoke alarms to turn the unit off in the event of fire and send me an SMS) and a 1 controlling the boost function of the MVHR (in addition to a few hardwired switches around the house I've got a Pi monitoring everything and triggering boost on rate-of-rise humidity changes and so I figured it'd be easier to bring all the inputs through to a single device which then controls the unit, manages auto-off timers etc). At some point I imagine we'll be getting some of their dimmers for the open plan family room (which has five lighting zones) but am holding off for the time being as we're not a fan of push button dimming, preferring instead the use of rotary controls. The Shelly dimmer doesn't support such inputs but I believe something might be in the pipeline as the GUI hints that it is supported, and if not I may try and roll my own solution with rotary encoders and a suitable interface. I don't want to rush in to spending £100 on five dimmers though if a new(er) model may be required to give me exactly what we're after. I know what you mean but I thought I'd give it a chance. They've been in over a year now and I've not noticed a single instance of failure, and I've actually been very surprised by the responsiveness eg the time between pressing a button on the app and something happening is pretty much instant - certainly no slower than, say, the responsiveness of changing the TV channel with the remote. There are a few things I particularly like about the Shelly's - they are built to a European design spec (some are also UL certified) which is important to me if burying them within the house, they can work independently of the Internet/cloud if required/desired, their parent company (Allterco Robotics) seem very open and easily accessible and are constantly coming up with new product lines in response to customer feedback which gives me a bit of confidence when committing to one ecosystem of products.

I've been using a few Shelly smart relays and have been really pleased with them (not just the product but the company in general). They don't currently do UK-spec plugs but I'm sure I recall reading that they may become available around Christmas time.

Thinking aloud, I was wondering if rather than treating the wall directly you might be better off creating an 'air gap' (eg a fence) of some sort? This could be attached to the wall for stability but otherwise not become any part of it.

Just to be clear to other readers; I wasn't actually there

Yes, looks good @zoothorn I enjoy your threads, sometimes for the wrong reason and by God sometimes they are *painful*, but it is great to see one conclude with a nice ending. I do hoping you're sprawling around on that carpet taking in that new carpet smell? Oh, is it just me that does that then? P.S. Please only mention your air pump in the relevant thread; we don't need to all hear it (pun intended!) in here...

Must... resist... temptation... (@Admin close the thread quick before someone gets banned ?)

If the mains cables are protected by an RCD then I don't think they need any mechanical protection even if <50mm from the surface. If they did, I don't think metal capping would count as it's still no match for a nail? I'm sure there's a resident spark on here who'll know chapter and verse. Drywall adhesive can be smoothed and sanded, but whether it'd provide as good a match to the surrounding area as others plasters I don't know.

Defeating the purpose is one thing, voiding the warranty (despite no such constraint being a condition) is the bit that concerns me. I'd put your health and comfort first, and worry about any warranty issue if/when it comes to it.

They should put a clause to that effect in their written warranty really if they beleive it to be an issue. Did you make it clear you'd only be looking for it to be temporarily disabled? (Assuming you're not persistently smoked out of course)

Did they say why, and more importantly on what grounds? There's no such restrictions in the written details as far as I can see.

Now *that's* a light!

It's preferable not too, particularly if the replacement component is of slugjtly different dimensions. A diagonal cut across the olive with a junior hacksaw 3/4 of the way through (being careful not to nick the pipe) and then twisting with a screwdriver will remove the old ones in no time at all.

I too use the Flomasta inhibitor. Feels, smells and tastes (don't ask!) like any other.

Thanks James - will have a read!

Good question - I'd have to check. The roll I linked to is 10mm thick and my recollection is that mine could be that or thereabouts. I suppose the thicker it is the more filtration/restriction there is so I think I'd be looking to maintain 'normal' performance on that front.

I'm sure this must've come up before in conversation, but I haven't found a dedicated thread so thought I'd start one... The filters on my Titon 1.25 MVHR are long since overdue their first replacement and whilst 'official' replacements aren't prohibitively expensive at £12.78/pr the thrifty Northener in me is reminding myself that's it's the sort of thing that's heavily marked up and so there is likely a cheaper - yet just as good - alternative available. My filters consist of clip-together plastic frames and so it'll be trivial to replace just the material and so I figured I ought to be able to buy a roll of G3 filter material for an additional outlay upfront but that will likely last me forever and so soon pay for itself. Furthermore, if I had a roll I'd be more likely to replace the filters more often and it'd be a sunk - and long forgotten - cost once I've got it. Has anyone else done this and, if so, can share any recommendation of supplier? A cursory Google search finds me a 1sqm filter roll for £8.34 (excl. delivery) which would give me 10 replacements.

I'm out too. The 12 pages have been interesting but we're going round in circles now.

Quick reply as I'm busy at the moment so can't check the manual, but could it be frost protection kicking in?

... or sludge (but I do seem to recall Zoot saying they're new in this instance).

Yes, just do that. I wouldn't bother with the vents though - if it is fully sealed then the internal temperature ought to just track the average room temperature given the mean of all the air passing through it.

Varilight programmable dimmers are the best (or should that be worst?!) example of that! To be fair, with only on, off and timings in-between things are going to get fairly complicated if needing to enter multiple different modes of configuration so their designers do have my sympathy.