MJNewton

Ha, yes, not to mention trapped fingers. I also liked the slight 'ricketiness' of them which I first thought was merely Chinese quality of construction but have now realised is actually really helpful for being able to nudge the board around without needing to necessarily move the whole lifter. A real workhorse. My only regret is not having any more ceiling boards to do (although I may just rip another ceiling down without hesitation if there's even some benefit in doing so).

I was thinking a skirt of some sort, even if just to mitigate the issues immediately and prove your theory about how the water is finding its way in. As you say, once the roofing is up to glazing level it sounds like there won't be a problem, but worthwhile proving that now if you can.

Surely the spring clips are merely to hold the inner section of the vent up inside the outer? I don't think they are designed to attach to the ducting. What's the inside diameter of your ducting i.e. what's the delta between the 94mm OD of the vent and the ID of the ducting? My vents have have a rubber ring around the outside that fills this cap; perhaps you could fabricate something similar (eg gap-filling foam tape).

I use PVC tubing to help apply sealant/foam to awkward places. Widely available on ebay for next-to-nothing.

I envy you guys that just crack on with it... I let things drag on and on.

So that mountain might well become a mole hill afterall? Room looking great though. Always a great feeling to finally get to the end, no matter the journey!

In case you might not have clicked the Adapt-r link I see they've actually got a photo on their front page which may be food for thought:

Yes, I've seen that before. You need to connect that white bit to the waste system. Do let me know if I can be of any more help... ?

I'd take it up with your GP. Seriously. The carpet fitter isn't responsible for conditions with your feet and isn't really in a position to do anything about it, aside from fitting underlay of your choosing if you consider it being a trigger. I would expect you to have to pay for that now however as there's nothing wrong with what he's fitted.

Cloud 9 Cumulus. One of the most widely fitted and well regarded underlays in the industry.

Just pull the carpet by a tuft right in the corner (pliers will suffice to lift it until you can grab it by hand) and then pull up - it'll come off the grippers without issue and can easily be put back and pushed back in between the grippers and skirting. Whatever you do, calm down. I've never known so many mountains being made out of mole hills and the distrust you have in the motivations of others - the stress you create for yourself has surely got to be harmful.

What underlay is it? Lift the carpet from a corner - the underlay often carries branding printed on it.

Probably the AEG ComfortLift?

There's a retrofit option available for other dishwashers - http://adapt-r.co.uk/ (surprisingly pricey but could be worthwhile (neceessary) for some).

You could probably argue the same about most kitchen cabinets really - they're just different permutations of the same components and I would expect the price to correlate with the number of parts. £120 sounds a lot though; I'd expect it to be half that tops (eg the ones from DIY Kitchens are £60). More to the point however, I thought most (all?) single integrated ovens are of the same dimensions and so the shelf could've been provided ready-fitted thus making it plug-and-play like the others. It certainly was from our one from DIY Kitchens and suited the randomly-bought oven perfectly. It had an integrated drawer under the shelf and so would've been limited in ability to adjust if the oven above wasn't a standard size. Even without the drawer you'd need a filler panel for the gap underneath and ideally should be supplied cut and finished rather than you having to make your own.

I'm wondering if it's the relatively high number of wet rooms that is pushing the overall extract requirement to be quite high, and this in turn is forcing the supply rooms to be higher than otherwise needed to ensure an overall balance is maintained. Taking the specific 20 L/s for the sitting room in insolation that's quite a high flow. I suppose it is the room that would likely see the most number of simultaneous occupants but even so; try not to focus on what the figures say as the real world is a lot more forgiving and has to be given the imperfections of the system as a whole.

I must admit, I've often found myself explaining to people why there are 'really old fashioned plug sockets' in my 'new build' house! Even once I've explained I think they still go away wondering if I really know what I'm doing...

Okay, understood. When you said '20 L/s' I thought you meant that's what you were getting and you were trying to get it up to 80 L/s (for that one room alone). So what are you getting? No, it's the balanced volume *throughput* that's of interest i.e. your 80 L/s target is 80 L/s supply and 80 L/s extract. P.S. Try and stick to one set of units; it gets really confusing swapping between the two!

Now I *did* go for 5A outlets, but in every location there's a double 13A socket too so at worst they'd only become redundant. I've always been a fan of them pre smart lighting (we don't tend to go for room (ceiling) lights anymore), and I'm always mindful of the potential need to go back to that method of control one day... whether that's due to us selling up or - more likely perhaps - the wife not wishing to adapt to a complex, convoluted and sometimes uncertain method of 'just turning a bloody light on!'!... ?

That 80L/s flow rate target is surely for the whole house though, not individual rooms?!

I stand to be corrected, but I don't think British Standards have any authority in and of themselves; only indirectly through reference from other things (such as building regulations) that do. Furthermore, BS6229 is a 'Code of Practice' rather than a 'standard', which may be relevant.

For me it was the desire to avoid being trapped within a single ecosytem, and also the dissatisfaction of certain aspects of a particular supplier's offering. I figured that if I can break the system down into smaller component parts I can pick the best-of-breed for each and reap the flexibility of mixing and matching. I know you said table lamps, but I think my thinking stemmed from wondering how best to control the GU10 downlights in the kitchen - there are only five but that was enough to make me think twice about forking out for five smart bulbs, particularly as none of them gave a specific feature that we were keen on ('warm dimming' as per their tungsten cousins). We ended up with bulbs from Ikea - warm dimming and a CRI >90 for only £2.50 each, and conventional (Varilight V-Pro) wall switch dimmers. I should say (admit) I am not ruling out smart bulbs though - more just finding my way around without committing too soon.

I've only got three so far - a 2.5 controlling some patio and garden lights (only really using the sunset timer on it, but it was a cheap way of doing even just that and gives the added benefit of controlling them remotely), a 1PM powering the MVHR (monitoring power consumption and acting on behalf of the smoke alarms to turn the unit off in the event of fire and send me an SMS) and a 1 controlling the boost function of the MVHR (in addition to a few hardwired switches around the house I've got a Pi monitoring everything and triggering boost on rate-of-rise humidity changes and so I figured it'd be easier to bring all the inputs through to a single device which then controls the unit, manages auto-off timers etc). At some point I imagine we'll be getting some of their dimmers for the open plan family room (which has five lighting zones) but am holding off for the time being as we're not a fan of push button dimming, preferring instead the use of rotary controls. The Shelly dimmer doesn't support such inputs but I believe something might be in the pipeline as the GUI hints that it is supported, and if not I may try and roll my own solution with rotary encoders and a suitable interface. I don't want to rush in to spending £100 on five dimmers though if a new(er) model may be required to give me exactly what we're after. I know what you mean but I thought I'd give it a chance. They've been in over a year now and I've not noticed a single instance of failure, and I've actually been very surprised by the responsiveness eg the time between pressing a button on the app and something happening is pretty much instant - certainly no slower than, say, the responsiveness of changing the TV channel with the remote. There are a few things I particularly like about the Shelly's - they are built to a European design spec (some are also UL certified) which is important to me if burying them within the house, they can work independently of the Internet/cloud if required/desired, their parent company (Allterco Robotics) seem very open and easily accessible and are constantly coming up with new product lines in response to customer feedback which gives me a bit of confidence when committing to one ecosystem of products.

I've been using a few Shelly smart relays and have been really pleased with them (not just the product but the company in general). They don't currently do UK-spec plugs but I'm sure I recall reading that they may become available around Christmas time.

Thinking aloud, I was wondering if rather than treating the wall directly you might be better off creating an 'air gap' (eg a fence) of some sort? This could be attached to the wall for stability but otherwise not become any part of it.