Susie

I haven’t totally crossed of a Heat pump but I’m only a few miles from the coast on top of a hill and in winter we can have sea mist come and go a lot. we get strong winds from 3 directions because we’re so exposed. I’m concerned how quickly a heat pump could deteriorate in the salty air.

That’s my problem @Radian@SteamyTeawhen they say something so stupid and he was talking minutes on and off because I questioned that. I was getting told no cylinder is set up for PV input and UFH output not that I shouldn’t do it for cost or any other reason just that it can’t be done except Gledhill.

I didn’t think this would be so hard but after speaking to Telford they said it doesn’t work they have no cylinder that can be run like this. Telford also said constant on/off is not good for immersion heaters, they wouldn’t last as long, and they said thermal stores are outdated, now better insulation is available for cylinders. He seemed to think I need a boiler or heat pump but I disagree. Im working on getting my U value for the new build low to avoid heating most of the year. Spoke to another supplier of UFH and cylinders who looked into it then rang back and also said it can’t be done Next I contacted Gledhill they suggested the Torrent stainless OV https://www.gledhill.net/products/alternative-energy/torrent-stainless-ov/ I also contacted cylinders2go who thought a cylinder with a heat exchanger would work and suggested I ask on the forum. Im sure a lot of users on the forum are doing something similar so why am I running into problems? Other alternatives are willis heater and Sunamp. I don't know much about Sunamp so more research needed. I have been using the fabric and ventilation heat loss calculator and the floor heat loss & UFH calculator. Here is my summary.

@Blooda 3 phase smart or just 3 phase?

Did you ever sort this out @joe90 did you change phone as well as network. I’m happy to pop round with my iPhone on O2 it works well for us 3G/4g and on Wi-Fi but EE was rubbish here, nearest mast to me is crimp cross.

outbuildings do count as does amenity land which is a vague description of in my case a field I can use for exercise or growing produce etc as opposed to general gardens. you are assed on internal useable sq feet so yes thickness of walls should be taken into account. Comparing with similar properties is useful but beware it is difficult for example a house with a large extension should only be reassessed when sold, not when the extension is completed hence why estate agents don’t all say the council tax band or put a caveat in the wording. some use full links below. https://www.gov.uk/challenge-council-tax-band https://www.n-kesteven.gov.uk/_resources/assets/attachment/full/0/4717.pdf

Thanks for all the help, I also found this thread useful, (Floor heat loss and UFH calculator) and I will be looking into loop cad at a later date. So far I have required underfloor heating power 10.5 W/m2 and required floor temperature 21.2 deg Thanks to everyone.

@Nickfromwales you said back in 2019 you installed Ivar mixing pumps, is it this one and do you still rate them, https://underfloorparts.co.uk/product/ivar-uni-mix-underfloor-heating-ufh-pump-mixing-kit-underfloor-heating-manifold-control-unimix/ Thanks

Thanks @JohnMo that's a low temp so I need to know this when looking at the thermal stores it might make the Willis system better its just a basic immersion on the UFH.

It could come down to cost on something we might not use @Conorand @Andehh were in the country so distance and narrow roads go against the cost of £5000 for screed or £3000 for DIY low profile UFH the extra can go towards better insulation/windows etc and so even less likely to need the UFH. I presume its also less digging out and less time. We probably won't fit the manifold till we know we need the UFH, Im from up north so Cornwall is already warmer.

I have used Jeremy's heat loss calc inputing all my U-values, area dimensions and OAT (Cornwall). Background The Build will be ICF, 144m2 internal, ground bearing slab with Celotex on top but no wet screed I'm looking at the fast to heat up dry board UFH systems. Solar PV will heat the DHW ,immersion thermal store, which will heat UFH. And economy 7 or willis heater are options. No air source heat pump, combination of the build being near my listed building and own choice that I don't want one. Wood burner stove for very cold winter months when PV struggles, own grown trees already cut and drying in storage more still growing. I'm home all day most days and quite happy to wear a jumper when a little cold. The quick to warm up systems advertise they can be at desired floor temp in 3 hours and room temp in another 2 hours can any body confirm this for a similar build? Example from one manufacturer is flow temp of 40deg, 50.8 W/m2 and floor temp of 24.9deg. Back to Jeremy's calc I how do I match my W and kWh to the best UFH

I worry that not all drivers would know where the front of the car finishes to avoid falling over the edge, driving straight over a bump or hitting a wall. Will all the drivers be aware how far forward they have to be to ensure rear of car is not still on pavement. A big plant to the side you line up with helps. Not a blob of paint or big arrow as not every one likes that past experience has taught me. I have driven many cars from Volvo V70 to BMW mini and now a Toyota landcruser but my my daughter is more suited to the Mini, her comments on the other cars have ranged from how much do I turn the steering wheel for corners to how do I know where the back end is (V70). I suggest looking at neighbours drives and if possible having a practice I’d hate to make so many changes to just have a new set of problems. I know it was mentioned earlier about changing the car, could you borrow a small automatic my daughter commented on how good it was not having that extra peddle, and why we didn’t tell her before how they had less peddles and so much easier. That would just leave the slippy cobbles.

Just got the same planning conditions, what did you do?

We have a saniflo that’s been good for over 20 years. Can be little noisy but only when you flush obviously. Ours is in a basement and all water needs to be pumped up to ground, can’t have it any other way because we’re listed. It does like being used, the rubbers dry out so motor can run on a bit when not used often, but sorts itself out eventually, also never use bleach. We also have to put soap in bath to remove bubbles as it hates them they really makes it mad and it goes on and on…

Looks lovely how does it cope with our weather or is that in a porch room I also see a wonderful door bell pulley. Care to share who made both. PS we got PP on Thursday 😀

I’m just North of Bude close to border with Devon (and joe90 and GoneWest) We haven’t got planning permission yet so can’t help with the key decisions for the builders. I live in a converted barn that was converted by the previous owner an architect who got most things right but could have done some things better. We have a light switch behind a door and another you have to reach round for and when you switch all the lights off in the evening you can’t switch them off as you walk in one direction you have to put one on then walk back and switch another off. I would do plenty of walk throughs to make sure sockets, switches and appliances are in the right place. Somethings can be changed later but can effect finishes eg plaster and decoration. Always ask questions on here, the forum members can answer most questions and we all learn by reading each other’s questions and answers. Most of all enjoy the conversion/build.

Looks great. We drove the NC500 this year and saw quite a few of those polytunnels you mentioned and got up close inside one to see how it was done. Yours looks great just like those but at a fraction of the cost. next project for you is half cut drain pipes along the 2 long sides to collect all that rain and and an IBC for storage. So jealous, if we ever get planning my veg plot becomes the house and garden and I have to start fresh further in to the field. I’m at the opposite end of the country but high up near the coast and also suffer from the storms so currently have a walled plot and a netted tunnel to keep the birds and butterflies out. I’d love to suggest this to HWMBO but I know the answer ‘by the time the homes built the last thing you’ll want to do is garden well be too old’

I have recently had to register a company for VAT and that was very efficient but both the VAT exception department and VAT cancellation are struggling to keep up with the workload the first being months behind schedule dates and later a month behind. I was told the mail room if full of scanning to get on the system, so although your individual invoices don’t get scanned I presume as all paper work get at least one digital before it’s off to the right department that’s part of the hold up. For some VAT departments you are able to see what post date they are currently working on and get an estimate of when your post date will reach the top of the pile. If anybody phones up this would be a good question to ask to help out others of the forum.

Welcome to the forum. I have been a member now for nearly a year and have found myself reading through posts most nights and learning so much. What part of Cornwall?

The dish was for things like lasagne or shepherds pie I some times use a trivet thingy to put a little space under dish as well. I have a oven type mode with bottom heat and fan on top so the dish has the heat blown around it like a fan oven but from the top rather than the rear.

Not the same model but our saniflow has been in over 20 years so hopefully you won’t have to mess with it when done. Looks a small neat one. Do they still advise no strong cleaning chemicals and bleach. Dread the day we need to take ours out it I know HWMBO will get plumber just because he won’t touch it.

I was also a bit worried about this after reading reviews but found that compared to the deep fat fryer that had the extractor on full it’s no louder but initially as it lower down than extractor and closer to you it was noticeable. After using it a while now nearly a year I don’t notice it at all. Also unlike fat fryer I’m happy to leave it unattended and be in another room just as I would with the oven.

It all depends on the size of dish and air fryer I can fit a 9 inch deep round tin in mine or cook in the pot without the fry basket.

My air fryer is a multi cooker, as well as air frying it also slow cooks, steams, pressure cooks, bakes, and more some I’ll never use like dehydrate and yoghurt settings.

I did look at the twin drawer one but decided as we love our meat a big lump of slow cooked pork would fill a drawer and as it’s mostly the two of us (I freeze some meat for quick meals), one layer of chips 350g and something else on top cooks well but that’s two fish not 3 you would have to layer 3 fish and turn frequently. It’s suppose to cook 500g of chips. Have a look at specific recipes in your chosen Ninja or whatever make to get a feel of what it can cook. I’ve done bread buns in it making the dough in bread machine putting half in fridge and baking 4 buns for lunch it proves and bakes nice. There’s still things I’ve not done yet like rice as I use a steamer also but glad I bought it just wish it wasn’t so big and heavy. Oh and make sure you have room to open lid I have it pulled to front of worktop because of overhead cupboards so the 2 drawer would be better but hopefully it still working when we move house and I’m not having any overhead cupboards.