Susie

We’re The Old Cow Shed but I was told by a local farmer who use to play on our farm when he was a kid it was a bullock shed. It’s close enough for a townie. We’ve called it The Old Cow Shed for 6 years it seems wrong to change its name now. Six years ago it never occurred to us to build our own home. The name was just to identify which storage shed.

I like seeing my address pop up when you enter your postcode on a form.

Unfortunately no its a bit similar to the SAP software I believe some architects are doing it in house others are farming it out. the advice is get it done before planning permission but guess what our local Architect got the planning first and then tells me he isn’t doing the new Overheating calculations that have to go to BCO before you start the build and is using a local company instead. More delays.

Don’t forget which way to hang the doors into hall not into room. and if you don’t like that swap after you get completion certificate.

I have been told by architect that because it’s new regs some people were fudging the results but BCO have caught on and are checking all spreadsheets on the simplified model throughly. got a company in Bude ringing me back later hopefully for the Dynamic modelling. I need the software for the dynamic modelling as I just can’t pass the simplified modelling. The simplified doesn’t take into account MVHR, shading by other buildings it designed into the build such as overhangs and canopies. For the dynamic method… To demonstrate compliance using this method, there are a number of bits of guidance that must be followed, including: CIBSE’s TM59 methodology for predicting overheating risk The limits on the use of CIBSE’s TM59 methodology (set out in AD:O) The acceptable strategies for reducing overheating risk (set out in AD:O

I have used Jeremy Harris’ spreadsheet for heating. This is to pass Part O and it’s a real pain for a bungalow that is facing south for solar PV (and the views) but because it’s a bungalow has restrictions on night time opening of windows. I have to make every single window including the plant room open inwards to meet the arm’s length criteria but some are too high to open manually. it’s just a load more red tape for us small builders who have to pay to have another report done because we are so well air sealed we use MVHR for ventilation. If I was building a few houses I could model one dynamically as a so called worst case and use those results for all my builds. it looks like another grand for a bit of paper that is going to say my house has solar gain because it faces south but with MVHR it’s ok. that’s my middle of the day moan over.

This is the telephone number from my email from them. 0800 0328660

I would be happy to pay £900 if they took the MVHR into consideration in the modelling before changing my fixed windows to opening. I shall look up R J energy consultants

The shading required is a bit misleading I live in a medium risk area and so do not require shading. The target is no shading and my answer to shading provided? Is no if I was in London for example in a high risk area I might be required to have shading my target would be yes to shading and I would have to answer yes to providing shading, and it would have to meet set measurements. it’s a shame it doesn’t count in the simplified model but if I do pay for the dynamic modelling the overhang may be considered.

Having got our planning permission in October our architect is only just looking at drawing the building regulations up, and looking at Part O. He wants another company to do the modelling, simplified and dynamic. By my own calculations, we haven’t passed the simplified model, and I have had to change almost every fixed window to an opening window. The cost of this change could lead into thousands of pounds, and a possible increase in the sight lines. Since we already have planning permission I don’t really want to start changing windows too much. I think the Dynamic thermal modelling method will take into account MVHR, which we have already planned to include in the build. Does anybody know if dynamic modelling can take MVHR into consideration and keep most of my fixed windows. I don’t know how much the dynamic modelling would cost but would hopefully not be as much as changing all my fixed windows to opening windows. We are also a bungalow with downstair bedrooms, with 2 windows open 300 and one 150 at night. We are in a very safe area and I don’t see this as a problem especially as in reality they would be on vent with the MVHR on but I do have to take security into consideration for the simplified modelling, hence the restriction on opening but I don’t know if they are opening too much to pass security. I don’t want bars or grills on the window. Notes on calculations All windows are single pane and top hung, which gives me only one ventilation area for each window opening. Glazing area is calculated as Window openings less 10mm packer and 53mm Frame. Opening pane is calculated as window openings less 10mm packer. 53mm frame is similar to Velfac and Ideal combi rather than Rationel and Origin OW80 casement type window. I could recalculate with larger frame. Max stroke length of .650 (arms reach) has been applied to most windows reducing opening angle, they were originally meant to be fixed picture windows. Ideas on ways of passing Part O Sill heights have been increased already. Change windows from opening outwards to opening inwards, the arms reach criteria means I can now open my windows more. What is the opening angle of an opening inwards window e.g Zylefenster? Do I model as 700? I shall look into this tomorrow. I could somebody to do dynamic modelling to include MVHR and solar control glazing. Recommendations for dynamic modelling companies are welcome.

Contact Openreach they have been very helpful with me. I contacted them early. We are digging the trench next week for water, electric and Openreach. this is what they are providing for free. 100271 x 90m:30 lengths of duct 56 094929 x 2: .Bend duct 56A 090126 x 1: .Bend duct 56 house end 095002 x 3: .Bend duct 56B 095096 x 1: .Connector bend 4 095037 x 2: .Joint box 26 075874 x 2: .Frame and cover 102C 054822 x 100m.5/0.5 PET cable 041304 x 1: .Draw rope bag 250m 071987 x 1: .Cover 101A 072180 x 3: .Capping 25 Susan's builders will install our duct and cable from new house to EL pole Xxxxx. Installer to erect two spans of drop wire back to DP 8. EL pole xxxxx will require a license. DP 8 will require a pair divert. they have a guide book at https://www.openreach.com/building-developers-and-projects/fibre-for-developers/guides-and-handbooks similar with electric if I collect from depot. we getting temporary site electric so will have tail ends of water pipe and pull ropes tied up for about a year we may get the new fibre installed by the time we finish the build 2 years off minimum.

Is the ‘Worksop’ a business you run? Putting this on its own phase could be good depending on what equipment you have in eg welding equipment, lifting, or compressors, for some items we are suppose to tell western power (new name is National Grid) incase we cause spikes on the network. Another useful possibility is putting a meter on the workshop phase just for your own accounting as a business expense rather than the low working from home of £250 apx we claim for the business. Working from home can be a tax minefield though shared private and business use of a Worksop can often get round this. We have 3 phase, one for our workshop, one phase for night storage heaters, immersion cylinder and kitchen and one phase for everything else it’s fairly well balanced but we moved in as it is so we didn’t design the circuits or phases. I would expect a lot of electricians down here are use to 3 phase and yours should be able to design it ok as it’s a lot more common than back in Manchester my home town. We had 3 phase in our Trafford Park premises but not in the suburbs so most domestic electricians didn’t touch it enough only the industrial electricians like ourselves.

If the build is still ongoing presumably as long as you add the batteries before completion you can still claim the VAT back. For us it could be long build and we’re hoping prices will lower and we can assess a real production before further investment.

A bit late as I think you have had enough but incase someone else reads we had this in a hotel which worked well so we are replacing our hinged screen to stop water splashes come out further down where screen finishes. https://www.qssupplies.co.uk/bathroom-furniture-shower-taps/91721.htm?srsltid=AeTuncqrptgoRmFCtDJeR69YHahjZmVtVmq56pgT-pD1uvuLw-8N90d6GBk a very neat combination of screen and curtain.

You mentioned regular visitors in you original post. Is that paid for guests if so are you claiming cost of electricity as a business expense. The pay back on a battery for us was calculated at 13 years so really not worth it, but we can use a lot of what we generate as we can send some to another business building, on the third phase. You might want to consider a 3 phase inverter that would allow the battery addition at a later date (add battery on solar side before inverter so as to limit losses) when they hopefully get cheaper. it also depends on your build time as the longer you take to finish the more you might be able to judge your usage and claim back the VAT of the battery just before sign off.

We have got our full planning permission but a condition is that we only demolish between October and February due to birds nesting (one robin, one sparrow) so you might get a condition on your pp but more likely I’m afraid is that you won’t get pp until after May when presumably you are having another visit and report.

You most likely do not have a faulty heater. I live in Cornwall our economy 7 hours are 12 to 1 and 2 to 8. All areas are different so check with your electric supplier. The storage heaters are timed to start charging up at 2 by 8 and I suspect a lot earlier they are fully charged up. By that I mean the storage bricks have soaked up as much heat as possible to be dispersed slowly throughout the day. The old beige ones had a flap at the top in the grill bit when you adjust the output it opens the flap a bit more for each number so 1 is a bit open and 10 fully open this allows the heat out quicker. Note it’s all mechanical at the end of the day if you don’t move dial back to 1 the flap is still open so at 5 o’clock as well as still charging if you didn’t close the flap it is also releasing all that stored heat back out. It took my mum a while to get this. for your parents get them to sit down and look through the grill near the top as you adjust the output and they will see the flap move. The new one will be similar in that by the last hour of your economy 7 hours it will be very hot and the heat will be released in timed periods depending on a schedule. It’s most likely still a flap but for example it will open at 8 for few hours then close, open again at 1 till 3 when it closes and opens again at 5 till 10. They can be programmed to release the heat very slowly all day or nothing till the evening. The old ones are most likely on their own circuit linked in to a time clock at the meter. We are on 3 phase and economy 7 getting the time on an old radio wave clock if your on the same you may hear a clunk as the circuits are switched on and off eg for me 12, 1, 2 and 8. If you have a smart meter you are definitely not on the old radio wave time signal. Im sorry you replaced one it was unlikely to be broken if they do break it’s the opposite not heating up at all. if I can help mor ask away and post a picture and we can try to help.

When you have sorted this out come back and do your introduction as it’s always nice to read others. especially if it sounds similar to me, Cornwall, old cow shed (knock down),ICF. 😀

I’ve hopefully got quotes coming in from ESP, joule and valiant. I will update on this.

I use goodnature brand A24 Automatic Rat- And Micetrap With Trap Counter, it also kills squirrels when placed higher but need to cover the gadget with the metal cover or they by pass it and eat the plastic to get at the bait. it’s instant death for them without poison, a small gas canister triggers a humane death. Not cheap but very effective and the gas canisters are relatively cheap to replace.

Thanks @HughFand @Nickfromwales I’m looking for DHW and space heating UFH with small wood burner for those really cold nights and they look nice. I do keep coming back to Willis just trying to explore all options. May be more PV to cover the cloudier days is the way to go. we would self install the PV (other half is electrician but been off the tools now for nearly 8 years) and we can probably use as much as we generate either in the home or divert to our home business in the barn, without exporting and MCS. I will keep researching.

@Jymmm Are you still happy another year on? Is it for DHW and space heating. I have been in talks with ESP and they are getting back to me but initial conversation is that it won't meet my 1.1kw requirements for space heating over 144 sq metres the long runs of UFH are what Harold at ESP was concerned about. Also that if I use all the water on long baths and showers it would take 5 hours to heat up again just on MVHR with no solar, in the evening, and would not be providing space heating during that time as DHW is its first call. Seems a bit strange, and even if he was right my UFH will cool down slowly, and for two people to use 300l of hot water is a bit excessive for a shower it was as if he didn't want to make the sale because he thought it didn't meet our requirements. Im not passive but close to, do you remember your heating requirements or U values?

I have tp link three m5 deco and two ax3000 covering an old stone barn conversion of three levels and two barns all Wi-Fi no cables brilliant mesh system. I can be out in the veg plot with full Wi-Fi which is 30m at least to main deco, using one in a barn to boost signal, also have cheap security camera on it. I was going to get outdoor type but these do the job for me sending signal from in house to in barn to in another barn. There are new Decos coming out soon.

@Gone West was EASHP a typo, a quick search finds EAHP

I will look into an EASHP thanks @Gone West . I’ve not got as far as choosing the MVHR, no quotes back yet so also left the spreadsheet at air changes per hour at .43 and MVHR efficiency at 85% so hopefully this can be improved. I’ve read about the extra coatings they can put on the ASHP @billt but still not convinced my outdoor investment is the best way I can spend my £ it’s the insides of all those ASHP further down the coast I’m thinking about the average life span of an ASHP in salty conditions can be as low as 7 years in which case my investment is better else where. Perhaps all those air BNB and second homes can afford the maintenance costs or they don’t know until it’s gone wrong and the installers don’t care as that’s more income when they go back to fix them for the part that is out of warranty. 🤔 im considering putting the UFH in but not connecting it up to anything until I know I need it, leaving room in the plant room for either a Willis heater or looking at the Sunamp system.