Susie

Surely you were on the old regs though, so not the part O?

I guess at some point a forum member will pay to have their house dynamically modelled for part O and we will all learn how much the shading and a MVHR effects the pass or fail outcomes. My building regs have now been submitted by my architect with my spreadsheet for the simplified calculation so fingers cross BCO are happy with it. @Furnace I have no idea how much your PHPP modelling has cost but could perhaps make more people think of building a passive house if they can save money on the part O. I wish it was in my budget now but too far into the design and timeline to make changes.

I presume that the underground option is underground all the way to your house not just under the road. It’s not a bad option if the cost is ok. Get it agreed and paid this tax year most utilities put their prices up April if you want to at a later date cut the overhanging tree down on your side I believe your suppose to give the off cuts back so throw them over to your neighbour. You already have got water and electricity presumably since you knocked a property down. Are they supplied direct to you not a shared water pipe between two properties. I had a water main coming in from street then split for a pair of semis these were built apx late 1930. I’ve also had an electric supply from street shared between me and my neighbour on an older terrace.

Things are moving quick for a few people I wonder if it’s the end of tax year and getting quotas in. goodluck @dpmiller hope they sort you out.

Good luck tomorrow. if like you say the visuals aren’t a deal breaker then I agree the chances of your cable blowing down are only a small fraction comparable to its full length above ground. Closing a road or digging up your neighbors are probably not worth it. our power is overhead as well and I don’t consider that a problem if it was to fall the longest I have been without power is 12hrs in 6 years and we are very windy here. A couple of times a year we get fly by checks on the whole village and surrounding infrastructure. Could be because GCHQ is close by and they will probably read this now as a huge percentage of our UK internet is monitored down the road.

Could you lay the cable yourself in the ground? If your in a windy spot I could see advantage to it being underground. Do you mind seeing the cable? ours is going in the ground because our nearest pole is 100m away at the end of our drive and the trench is open for water and electric. I have been told if we take a long time to complete the build then the cable might be upgraded by the time we’re ready to connect and the old cable will pull the new cable through.

Ours is Podium brand from Plumbase I like the the non slip and it cleans well but not sure it’s in your size. would be interested to see other people’s thoughts as well. ours has been in use for 12 months apx.

The simplified version does not take into account MVHR at all. If you don't want to make most of your windows open you will struggle. It depends on how use to a spreadsheet you are and how big your build is. Mine was a simple rectangle, not too difficult as im use to spreadsheets. Does the cost of @cheekmonkey put you off a dynamic model? I guess it depends on if the cost guarntees we keep remodelling until its a pass or if its £1700 and it either passes or fails and then more £ per hour until it passes. For me the cost of the dynamic was offset by me doing the simplified model and minor changes to some window sizes and although some windows now open and I would have preferred them to not open the cost of this change is still less than the Dynamic model would have been and as a bonus I have an opening window. I changed some windows to velux windows giving me more air flow on the North facade and I will probably have more art work on the wall or whatever looking to the positives. The following is for a non techie it breaks it down into sections if you are ok at allowing for frame sizes start with who you are most likely to choose as window supplier and use their data, enter all rooms one at a time. I made another table that allows for frame measurements jamb header non opening, jamb header opening, cill non opening etc and then a window opening that table that would reference the frame and input the data into the simplified spreadsheet. I can not show my calculations as Im a Mac numbers user not Microsoft excel and too much is lost in the conversion. A basic start for a non techie would be to start with what you think is your most glazed facade and don't worry about frame sizes just treat all windows as the full opening measurement and opening fully inwards top hung, unless it definitely can not be opening. You will need your Gross Internal Area and m2 for each room on that facade. If that passes or is very close to passing move onto bedrooms one at a time. On each one if you pass with all opening then try non opening and see if that's a fail or pass. Then move onto the other facades. If your passing or close then you have to start thinking about frame sizes and how each window will ideally open or not start with the windows that you don't want to compromise on then adjust the others either bigger for more ventilation or smaller if you have too much glazing. Each time you change something check which is your most glazed facade because if you start of with the most glazed on the West and harder % targets to meet adding windows to the North or East may change things and give you easier % targets to meet. I would be happy to look at your spreadsheet once started sometimes its just a case of another pair of eyes spotting a simple change. Before Part O Calculations After Part O Calulations

Well done as others have said very quick. Next up Building Regs?

Don’t forget liability insurance and either premises or if none then the garage becomes the business storage location. If more than just an office at home you need to inform your insurance company you run a business from home. vehicle breakdown cover for business use. no holiday pay has already been mentioned but chances are even when you are on holiday customers will be on the phone. The tradesman’s quote includes many overheads generally the customer will not consider.

Openreach have been great for me. Is that price when they dig the trench. I think there is an allowance for self builds of apx £2,500. If it costs less than this you don’t pay. If your neighbours have it then unless the local capacity is already full I’m not sure what they are charging for. We are currently digging our trench for water, site electric and Openreach. it took a few deliveries as they haven’t had everything in stock but we have been given free £0 all the conduit, box for in trench, cable covers for at the pole and at the house, 500m of pull cord (enough for the electric as well), and over 200m of cable. We’re self laying from the pole but they have to run 30m from one pole to an electric pole and they organise the wayleave. I do feel I have had great service of them so far, local contact and mobile number to keep in touch with deliveries and progress. They know we’re just preparing and will not move in and connect for a few years we have joked that the cable will probably be out of date by the time I get connected. To be fair Nation Grid have been great as well so may be it depends on location. I would definitely ask what the cost if for.

Welcome loads of info on here. Enjoy the journey.

Shading isn’t taken into account neither is MVHR or solar glazing. You can take all of them into account if you do the Dynamic modelling. So just two door changes and all windows open that’s not too bad. Did you check the arms reach for opening windows or are they open inward? You could put really cheap doors on and change them after completion. I do wonder if it’s going to be checked.

Just realised if you are thinking of replacing window frames then because your in Devon you are allowed UPC that look old in Sash style. Planning rules around England should be the same for everyone, but there not when your listed. Cornwall have refused repeatedly UPC windows in listed properties. Our isn’t listed by its appearance just who once lived here, may be whilst passing through and maybe met his wife here. So no UPVC for us.

Your close to the target. keep on tweaking sizes. front door is probably not glazed only any side lights. Where you ok with the open plan rules 4.5m depth restriction, if you have changed windows here check again it's still the same room. We had open plan South, East and West it started 4.5m from South but after changing windows was 4.5m from East which meant most glazed room changed.

Hi and Welcome I also live in a listed building in North Cornwall over 150 years old. Being listed is both lovely and difficult I get you completely. We are not allowed solar on the roof, no ASHP allowed, and have to keep the windows wooden..... I started with the basics which you have probably already done. All lightbulbs low energy, draft excluder around doors, old fashioned sausage dog type at main doors, rugs and blankets, heavy curtains etc Are you on LPG? I find filling the tank up in August is often cheaper and don't forget you can shop around your not tied to one supplier, unless you have just got a new tank, after the minimum your still free to move. Calor installed a new large underground tank £250 ish we dug the hole and filled back in. We left them after the minimum term and found cheaper supplier who took over the tank. Are you on Economy 7? Make the most of the cheaper hours. Once you have the basics sorted move onto slightly bigger things like insulating pipework, Hot water cylinders extra insulation. Finally save up and get permission if necessary for the other things. We need new windows but at over £1000 per small window supply only its too expensive for now. If you already have ideas you will find lots of help on the forum.

I’ve got to link ax3000 and deco m5 in a stone barn I just had to check which models and noticed that the cheap outside Wi-Fi camera on the cow shed has decided the best signal is 30 meters away in the lounge of the stone barn. Sometimes it gets the signal from a deco that’s in another barn but we have equipment that can block it so it just finds the next signal. it’s definitely not cheap but is simple to set up and works well inside and outside.

Broken glass shards and black gooey stuff that’s hard to get off. 😂

Can you put more windows on the North side that open? I put opening roof windows on the North side. It made my North side the most glazed so my first two targets were easier to achieve. I also have opening inward at 90 degrees and no arms length requirement. you did well on the bedrooms.

I have a 2 week trial of TAS but probably need a rest. I was going to use it but my architect used sketchup and it won’t import so I will have to draw it up my self not too hard but I’m behind with my work so since I have at least a temporary reprieve in passing the simplified method I’m catching up on work. I might go back to it later. Even if I end up giving the software a go later it should be done in a month so not an expensive option and will take my MVHR into consideration. Then cancel the software contract. For security we are supposed to have bars or grills if a bedroom is on a ground floor. It’s a wait and see what happens game. I’m also in the country with windows open at night. They will vent from the top, tilt and turn type. My windows have had to change two made 200mm more height and 6 roof windows added for ventilation. Two small windows removed that are replaced with roof windows. All additional windows on the North and making that the most glazed facade giving better target %. My problem might be different to some as it wasn’t too much glazing but not enough ventilation as some windows were big picture windows. I don’t want them to open as too big, bigger frames needed and another window seal in a very exposed location. I feel like most of February has gone by and I have been pondering windows most of the time so need a rest. The future homes spreadsheet only came out November I think 6 months after the regs changed I guess they know it’s a mess. I will post my before and after drawings as soon as I get them but happy to help anyone if I can.

The architect is adding some roof windows, as soon as the drawings are updated I can upload an image.

I hope in the future this will come in handy for somebody else. The simplified Part O Overheating spreadsheet is as completed by myself and handed in to BCO If any one needs any help feel free to ask away. I will update this post with any feedback I receive from BCO. Part O Simplified Method_FHH-SM-BETA-1.xlsx

If your neighbours floor seems ok what could be different e.g. do you have a floating wooden floor.

I guess it depends where you are in the country. im in a farming area so I’d try a few of those stores first to see what I could pick up. I also buy a lot from Amazon quick search says they can deliver a passage way sized gate Saturday to Wednesday. Would a gate solve your problem though. I’m thinking it sounds planned down yours over fence get bikes and back out yours. If you put a gate up can they get down your other neighbour and over fence to you. chances are they have already looked through your windows and are going round doing the easy pickings.

I have a pass on my spreadsheet. This is a link for anyone else to the best info and spreadsheet I found. I will post mine later. https://www.futurehomes.org.uk/avoid-overheating