Susie

You only need chlorinated once you have over 100m ready to connect up. you also need to do it a maximum of 24hrs before connection if it’s chlorinated more than 24hrs they won’t connect. sounds like you can plan ahead and use the host house supply as long as possible. we were given 3 names from our water company and one, a small company, was happy to do it in 3 stages. They also made the trench wide enough for elec and BT. We only have the middle section dug in trench at the moment. wording from top of our invoice is ‘City & Guilds Qualified & Water Industry Approved Groundworker’ if that helps.

We are going to be building with ICF and have similar access problems often a smaller concrete pump can be sent. We have had concrete deliveries so luckily know that’s possible if they reverse in all the way. Search the blogs on here for ICF there are a few good one. The roof was going to be a normal looking triangle truss roof but due to access we have changed to a mono truss which is basically two smaller triangles that are fastened together on site to make the full truss. We struggle with labour here so less time on site helps. have you been through BC yet or warrant. Do you need access for fire. Our plans have gone in and we needed a turnaround as they can’t reverse more than 20m.

Welcome to the forum you will find lots of help on here.

Thanks for this link to great site I have bookmarked for a few jobs.

Your cold water at basin probably comes from mains as it’s drinking water and not stored. can you find the isolator for the water coming out of tank for the hot water, no use just turning off what fills it unless you want to drain it

No it’s the foxes and rats etc I tried the bird proof sack we can buy but my drive is 150m long so the wheelie bin is easier. we don’t have as many gulls up here on the north coast as we have less tourists eating fish n chips and pasties. 😂 I get your point on the steep roads though and they can be a pain for emergency vehicles getting through.

Yes that’s the style but bigger. We have industrial use one. It was too big to go inside a long wheel base transit so always went on the roof which was a pain so in the end the lads were given telescopic ladders or hired in plant. We keep the y ladders in the barn. They are too heavy for me to move around and set up, so husband does the moving and setting up and I go up them. The fact they are heavy adds to my comfort of using them, they always feel sturdy even if not always on great ground e.g uneven floors or wire stair treads, the stabilisation base comes off ours. The ladders are great for vaulted ceilings or stairways, we use quite a bit without the 3rd section just folding them over at different angles against walls etc. the join on the two is an adjustable ratchet type for various angles. The ladders are years old now and still great no problems or wobble. At the time they where expensive but worth it, probably cheaper now, can’t find an exact image. Work out the maximum safe working height you will need and buy the best you can afford, a long as you have room to store them they are an investment in your safety.

Depends on how you feel at height and how high you need to get. a good investment for safety. I have tall step ladders and y ladders 3 way but they can be a little unnatural if very big and it takes confidence to go up and then do anything with one hand. I sometimes use both the steps I put small tools on or the paint roller to save going up and down all the time on the y ladders.

I like your first option a bit smaller for getting in corners and difficult places. Also this https://www.toolstation.com/club-hammer-bolster/p14764 Are you taking any plaster off walls going back to bare brick or stone if so hammer and bolster are good. are you removing skirting board carefully to avoid replastering and then just replacing with new skirting. Then a small hammer for taping the bolster or similar. lots of rubble bags recycle for free soon or a skip. and hand cream your hands dry out a lot with plaster.

Depends on location, in Cornwall we still have black bags and most people in the countryside end up buying a wheelie bin to stop vermin scattering rubbish. We are also still on small coloured sacks for recycling so I use a wheelbarrow to move them all on recycling day. once they are camouflaged they will be great and can nearly put themselves out.

Welcome to forum lots of helpful ideas on here from other self builders.

Sand paper, pencils and masking tape ae also not allowed so doubt the marking out paint is either, most consumables are excluded. the wooden floor under lay is allowable as the theory is the top wooden floor becomes part of the fixtures and fittings but carpet and carpet underlay can all be removed easily. think of selling a house and what you would tend not remove v what you could remove.

I would go back to them and ask for a receipt or invoice that doesn’t just say custom item, explain why that’s its too vague.

Under the order number is ‘show details’ if you click on this do you get a better invoice/receipt.

National grid free issue duct came in sections for bend and very large coil with no draw string. Openreach duct again free in numerous deliveries with huge amount of draw rope about 500m apx all free. was advised by National grid to use our large compressor but the water guy had a spider for sending the rope through. I was giving perhaps too many cups of tea out in the first days (it was cold and wet) to him and his guys then he realised the job was taking too long so we agreed he would send young lad to house for drinks fine by me but I didn’t see cord go through duct. We just inspected every night how far they had got. When he comes back hopefully next year I might get to see if it’s drier.

Sorry not sure other than it’s blue and the tail ends shouldn’t be left in the sun. no mention on the quote only a few months ago but my head has moved on 😂

@Furnace one trench , each in own duct, Openreach and electric provided the ducting, open reach also provided pull cord and cable. Duct for water was optional we chose to use one as stoneground. Were actually not fully connected up yet the trench from the road which will only have water in it will not be done until near the end of build. From the road it passes a pole from which the electricity and bt start this is the section we have done but not as far as build. The final stretch will be from temp electric to new build once built. So it’s the middle section of a 150m length we have dug. We just needed to claim the electric as the village is short on supply with a next door but one property off grid. We have done just over 2/3 probably. Hence why we have water tails wrapped and bagged as we didn’t want a joint. The guy who will eventually chlorinate the water dug the trench and lay everything in. Electric is connected to site box but as we don’t really need it yet we have not got the supplier yet. No point paying standard charges for things we don’t need as our other farm buildings have supplies near to build. The chlorination guy has a water number that means he can fill trench back in without an inspection.

Our trench has the water, electric and a pull cord for Openreach in to save costs. we are over 150m from the road and have been told the pipe will need chlorinating due to the distance and it has to be done at a specific time prior to water connecting to main. currently the tails are left out and bagged up as don’t want to pay standing charge until we are ready as like you water and 3 phase is already on the farm to other buildings. you can the the pipe yourself but they might want to check the depth so tractor and ripper might not be allowed.

Welcome You probably have already discovered how wonderful the site and people are. good luck getting air tight soon. We are doing a knock down and rebuild on the site of an old barn on our property. The site electric is in and tomorrow we have some hired plant arriving for a week so we can clear all the rubbish we have hid over the years behind the shed, and all the brambles and nettles we allowed to take hold and camouflage it. let’s hope May is a dryer month for us both.

Another newish member from North Cornwall @Gareth J

Welcome I’m not too far away near Bude.

Agree on the trusses as cheaper. To save money we are going for a raised tie truss rather than fully vaulted we still get our roof windows velux and a high ceiling but gain a little top area for cables, MVHR or lights etc. two local companies have quoted and no need for an SE as BCO will be happy with what the truss company provide in calculations.

We plan on putting ours in the wall and using the space above fitted wardrobes for pipe runs.

If they filed on the 31st March and we have had two bank holidays so yes it could take a few weeks but definitely before the end of the month I will get an automatic alert when the accounts hit the credit report and will let you know.

Short summary of company in question incorporated 1986 last return made 31/12/22 accounts filed 31/3/22 made up to 30/6/22 credit rating 7/4/22 60 good credit worthiness similar since 2018 limit £120,000 7/4/22 increase most years since 2018 when it was £83000 no current CCJs last accounts covered 15 months moved away from HMRC year end by 3 months. first time they had accounts audited