Roger440

Given its age i would tread very carefully. It wont have a damp proof course, so the walls and floor will need to breathe or they will get wet (probably are now.) Most insulation systems will prevent that from taking place, storing up future trouble. Id suggest a peruse here would be a good idea. https://www.lime.org.uk/ Im just about to use their sublime insulated floor system. Periodproperty forum is good too, though some of them can be a bit harrdcore!

What mr punter said. Ventilation. Where is it? The vapour barrier is a red herring. My previous hgose was a 30's semi, just platerboard and 100mm rockwoll. Totally bone dry. Never an issue in 80 years. Why. Ventilation. On a windy day it was plenty draughty up there. This looks like its sealed up.

The damp is coming from somewhere. And is has to go somewhere. So you now have concrete floor with a dpm, pushing it out to the walls. And you are going to insulate and render it outside. So you would, effectively waterprofed / sealed it. So the damp has nowhere else to go other than come out inside. Id guess the render you hacked off was also cement based? Your wall is no different, it has moisture in, it needs to evaporate. It cant, or couldnt, other than internally. If you cover that up with say, tanking, you wont "see" the damp, but your walls will be wet forever. As one of the videos on heritage house say, if you wash you clothes, put then in a bin bag and hang them on the washing line, what do you think will happen? If you left the render and insulation off, i suspect it would dry out in due course. Rule of thumb is 1 inch per month. Its 9 inches thick. It needs to breathe. Lime, lime lime. As per the heritage house site. In a new house, there would be a dpc in the brickwork to prevent this. You could try retrospectively installing, but thats a big undetaking. And runs the risk of the bricks below the DPC being permaently wet, which may, or may not be a long term issue. Theres a reason they use concrete block now. The front of my house is the same construction. It was damp all the time in there. 90+ humidity, permanently. Reduced the ground levels outside, removed the plastic dpc from under the floor, removed the render on the INSIDE. Put a vented cap on what was an open chimney. 12 months later, i can drill into a brick and it comes out as dust, not a slurry. Room sits at 60-65% humidity all the time. Ive still to remove the modern paint off the lime render outside, but it doest reach the floor so im getting away without it. Everything you could want to know is on the heritage house website. These links might be useful too:http://www.mikewye.co.uk/ & https://www.lime.org.uk/

Oh dear. Did you aquant yourself with the link above? I suggest you do so asap before you do anything else. Installing your dpc and slab "may" be making it woirse not better. Periodproperty forum is a good source of info too. Im about to do mine. There wont be any DPC or concrete!

If you check some other walltite videos, you will see it goes in as a liquid. there wont be voids. It can be used to crate flood proof walls.

What a fantastic place

We took the decision not to enable purchase of anything thats not out of stock. If you want to order something not in stock, you can only do it by phone or email. If its for something thats a stock item (prob about 95% of orders) we dont take payment until its physically in our warehouse and ready to ship. With all the current delays, whilst there may be some grumblings, nobody is out of pocket. Avoids all the upset, aggravation etc. Plus i can sleep at night as i dont have a stack of other peoples money for suff i cant ship.

I borrowed a clamop meter. not conviunced on calibration, and it was very sensitive. But it showed 5 amps running, but when it started ti struggle, and then pulse it would rise to 15 amps Interesting point about the cap. After some suggestions elsewhere, getting it hot first made all the difference. I ran it offlosad for an hour, and then reconnected. It was fine from that point on, until it didnt run for an hour or so, then it was back to tripping out. Ive also discovered putting a sump heater on the compressor is a done thing. All that sais, after using air most of yesterday, ive concluded that it isnt really big enough. For a 3hp compressor, air output is poor compared to my old piston compressor. Im going to last that in and see how that performs. Other than very noisey!!!

Its main issue it wont start from cold. Once its nice and hot, its fine. But it doesnt really run long enough to get properly hot.

Oil about a year old. But barely been used until recently. I dont really understand what effect the caps have, or how i can know if they need replacing?

Its 150psi, which is what its supposed to be. It worked fine in the previous workshop. Thats not to say its not developed a faul of course.

The compressor itself trips out. I assume some king of ovrload or thermal trip.

I should probably clarify. The breaker doesnt trip. The motor pulses, and after 5-15 seconds, the compressor trip operates. Leave it a minute or 2 and you can have another go. Usually with the same result. Its a hydrovane compressor. It works fine at work. The farmer also confirmed his compressor used to do the same occasionally when it was in the same building (well the other side of the wall.)

Terminals all checked. Done that Im not seeing a volt drop with a meter plugged in to the socket thats its plugged in to. But i do see a rapid climb in current consumption when its about to cut out. Supply comes from the other half of the building. Its the incoming to that that i think is the issue. A small bit sticks out of the ground. Ive got 16mm armoured under my drive. Its WAY bigger than that. But thats not to say its that size all the way. Difficult to know. Not my farm

In the abscense of a garage at the moment, im renting a workshop at the local farm. Sadly, it seems the incoming electrical supply isnt up to much. Most stuff is OK, but the compressor is an issue. Basically, it struggles to start. The colder it is, the worse it gets, no doubt due to drag increasing on the motor. Clearly the right answer is to upgrade the incoming power supply. But not my farm or my building. Given the problem is only on start up, and just before it trips out at peak pressure, i only need short periods of extra incoming. Ive tried to find a solution, but not sure im using the right terms. Are the products avalable, such as a battery bank etc, that will, effectively support those peak loads? Im not sure im explaining it well, but hopefully the brighter minds than mine here might have some ideas? Im keen to avoid a generator as this is way to much messing about, though clearly, its an option. Thoughts?

As ProDave says, if its been up a while, i certainly wouldnt worry about building regs. Planning, thats worth checking as suggested.

Me too. But really want to do the fixed half. But not really doable. But it was the "hood" that made the big reduction in noise. The spill pipe on the return will get modified eventually. Only reason its not done is its 55mm pipe. Ever tried buying 55mm waste pipe................? Could be a really good product with a bit of thought and virtually zero extra cost.

This seems to be a problem with all of them. Clearly the designers dont have one themselves. Mines a Vortex too. Whilst the actual plant might be quite good, precisely zero thought went into the compressor and housing. It now resides in an enclosure in the wall. Its much better and probably wont bother most. But eventually im going to move it into the summer house, which is about 10m away. The vortex sellers said i would need a bigger compressor to overcome the increased resistance created by the longer pipe, but aside from that no reason it wouldnt work. The other problem was the sloshing of water noise. Ive created a sound proof hood over the entry point where most of this happens which is much better. If id known all this before, i might have gone with another septic tank and a drainage field.

Steel framed barn? Im all ears. Nothing useful to contribute though. Just something im considering. General-Lee posted a summary of his a couple of weeks ago. Is this north bucks?

I keep looking at this, but quickly realise that it actually starts to get quite expensive. And complicated. I want to water a flower bed using gravity from an IBC/Water butt. But ideally i want to fit some lawn sprinklers too. That means a minimum 1.5 bar. So a pump required. Then we need filtration on the incoming water. I can plonk the storage behind the summer house and collect that water. But its not enough water. The house and patio drain to a soakaway. Thats a lot of water. But how to get it to the the IBC? Ive got a chamber in the soakaway line that i could put a submersible pump into to pump when it rains. But again, more complication and expense. Or i could pump from the river to the IBC. But that 200ft away. So more expense and complication. And some control wiring to make it automatic. Much as its ecologically unsound, turning the tap on is much simpler!

I did once find plastic clip on skirting board, but unless you have arrow straight walls, that probably not going to look brilliant I did toy with the idea attaching the skirting boards with screws and nice brass cup washers, and simply remove after a flood and dry out. If you used a decent timber it should be ok. The main driver behind this is the front of the house is old 9 inch walls with lime plaster and mortar, so needs to dry out. So nothing "waterproof" can go on the wall

Im i correct in assuming you have rendered the walls in lieu of plaster? How does that look? Is it as smooth as plater? Definitely interested in the skirting board options?

I need to do this without any damage. Dry ice blasting looks to be the best way. Sadly, thats not DIY

Oh, i cant help myself. One more Q? Whats the build up of the side walls? Are these fully insulated all the way to the eaves? Ir are you just insulating the rooms independantly of the building?

I started a thread a few weeks ago on exactly this subject. A couple of Q's if i may? What goes on top of the joists in what is the roof void? Are you just leaving it as is? Im unclear on the planning. You say you only got planning for single story. If i understand from the responses to my thread, planning dont care whats inside, only about the outside, and as a consequence and opening such as windows. PS, nice user name, let me share one of my toys..........................