Roger440

I can imagine how pleased you would be...............

Its a sika product. It will be ace!

Ive got nothing useful to add other than yoo must really like swimming! The work and considerations required to stop a sewage treatment plant popping out of the ground caused me enough stess, but this is a whole other level.

Insulating properly is expensive. You can run a dehumidifier for many years before you get close to the cost on insulating effectively. Its also quick and easy.

Techincally correct. But my barn was, before i made it somewhat airtight, rarely more than a couple of degrees adrift from outside. Because it was well ventilated. A couple of degrees difference isnt not that critical, a building full of damp air is.

Which is why you use a dessicant one in low temp environments. They also generate significantly more heat, which is useful in the OP's situation. And mine.

Maybe go back and read my post on the previous page. Most of this ^^^^ is just another one of your rants and is not relevant to what i said.

Indeed, but on this id want to put some kiln dried sand or similar on it too whilst sticky to prevent UV degradation. (whatever the manufacturers say about it)

As above. Make sure its as airtight as possible, and get a dessicant dehumidifier. Problem solved, though with some running costs. Insulating will help a lot, but thats not going to be so easy. You absolutely do not want more ventilation. If its 95% RH outside, it will be 95% inside. If its ventilated you cannot possibly get any other outcome. Steel wont rust below 65%, and nor will mould grow on wood at that either. I keep my workshop at 50%. Nothing degrades in any way. It does, however form part of my largest expense, electricity. But its a big workshop.

Globally no, we are not "ahead". The UK being miles ahead wont stop anything. My point was globally. Not UK.

Pessemistic, but realistic, and what is actually happening and will continue to happen.

At the more extreme projections, it wont be pretty. But they are that, projections. People will find a way to survive. But maybe not all of them.

There was, and still isnt, any possibility of collective action by everyone to do what needs to be done, before we consider there are no guarantees that even if we did it would make any useful difference. Human behaviour being what it is, it was always going to be that way. Adapation was and is the only realistic route forwards.

Sounds like an deveoping outbreak of common sense. Ie, adapt. Sadly, we will have no money left to adapt after spending it all trying to stop it.

You are not alone there. If i was being cynical, sounds like nothing much other than extracting some % from otherwise existing businesses and customers via some techy, appy type stuff. Somehow. Or put another away, someone with some techy knowledge trying to answer a question, that nobody is asking.

Now thats nice. Both the building and the contents......................

Fotunately there no timber in the roof its all steel. So not going to get ruined. Though it doesnt look that great, but nothing a coat of matt black wouldnt sort out. No one want to do the roof with new panels except for a chap i know. He is expensive, big company, lots of overheads etc, so i get it. But £50k isnt happening. Problem is, a) i cant do it myself, and b) going to need a crane as the panels will be 6.2m long. Cant rerally use a telehandler as there is a 10 to 12ft wide hardcore strip down each side, but no space to actually turn. If i was to do it, id probably be looking at 100mm rather than 40. Only going to do it once! Pic for reference

But as you know, when i needed an SE, i used one.............................

Looked at that too. Im not a fan, as keeping said insulation dry in this environment will be rather difficult. Wind driven rain can be rather bad. More expensive than spray foam, a bit more expensive than my under cladding wheeze (mainly because i can the do latter, but not the former) but cheaper than a new composite steel roof. The thing that skews it, is the overall roof is 4000sqft the workshop circa 2400, the balance being either the canopy (big) or the rear of the already insulated office bit. If i do inside, ive only 2400sq ft to do, and whilst i "could" do only part of the outside, it would look terrible and its not exactly hidden from the house! But everything is an option. Spray foam still looks like the winner. If i stop the leaks. Its not asbestos as built in 2001.

All correct. And whilst good in a commercial environment and enough to satisfy the law, its not really what im looking for. This is purely a hobby. If im cold, i wont enjoy it, so becomes pointless. Ive spent enough of my working life in cold workshop environments, even with various forms of heating to know i need better. My long term target is to maintain it through winter at 12c. 12c is ok if you are working. 2c or less, not so much. But until i sort the roof out, everything else is pointless.

Ive partly done/doing that. At the back (centre of pic) are the double doors into my "clean room". That fully insulated (apart from floor) The area under the mezz will recieve the same treatment with an insulated door on the front opening. That will be the "dirty room" for weding, fabrication, painting etc. But the main part of the workshop with the ramps, which is where i spend a good chunk of time doesnt lend itself to further subdivision, especially with the entrance door where it is. Ulitmately i need to sort out the roof as its just single skin fibre cement. So any heating just disappears. The walls are cavity block. The only sensible answer is either spray foam (expensive), but 27 of the roof sheets are cracked (mostly due to overtightening on install (!!!) so that needs fixing first. Or put another insulated steel roof on the inside. (more expensive) Replacing the whole roof is beyond expensive!

Just a 4 poster? You need a 2 and a 4........................... However, warm it isnt. Still to many options and decisions. And not enough money

This is all wonderful. I can get AI to do my structural calculations too, or SAP report, but the BCO wont accept them. Has to be from a competent person. Even if that same person might be using the exact same method. Though "competent" is open, currently, to interpretation. I imagine that will change, bringing yet another layer of cost and complexity to bear.

What Nick said about porcelain on a solid bed. you wont break it dropping spanners. I jacked cars up with a trolley jack with steel wheels on them. thats some crazy point loads. they were fine.

If its a proper screed, nice and flat, then if you just want to stop dust, just use a densifier. Its clear like water and just soaks in. Cheapish, and dead easy to apply. If you paint, you are appying a coating. Again, if its completely smooth, and with proper prep, a single pack product will work up to a point. However, not all single pack products are equal. Id certainly not be buying from B&Q. Ive found Promain very helpful if you ring (an actual telephone call, madness i know!) and explain what you are doing. For me, if painting, its 2k epoxy every time now. But i prefer to tile. Did my last garage with tiles and its absolutely the best solution long term. Good epoxy is expensive. Tiles more so, but the difference if you do it yourself not that big. Depending on the tiles of course!