Roger440

This ^^^^ Except if on clay, its an attenuation chamber you need.

Why would the mass flow rate be the same?

Good work Surely, aside from changing the buckets, just double or quadruple or whatever the number of wheels? If you have 6, then it will generate 6 x more power. Plus effiecency improvements from new buckets and a better geberator.

Im struggling with the absolutely silient bit. So, middle of the night, on a still night, you cant tell the difference with it on or off?

Be sure to keep us updated. The appeal of ST is that its DIY-able more easily. And hence much cheaper. The actual level of efficency is rather unimportant if it gets the job done in a cost effectve manner. Computers and software are something i reallk dont want involved if at all possible. Partly because i struggle with them, and partly because they are invariably more unreliable than what they are managing, and always unsupported 5 mins after you bought them. Of course, you do need space for large tanks.

This ^^^^^. Or even the ones that you fill di-ionised water. If all you want is the ambience, then either of these will do it. Beats deliberately trying to kill yourself. We removed wood burner. When i actually finish the room, one of the water ones will go in . Something like this. https://www.dimplex.co.uk/optimyst If you are as well insulated as you suggest, an actual log burner is a bit bonkers, just from a heat perspective.

Very much so. Cash flow is always a problem, but right now, its about being on the ball enough to know which of your input costs are going up and adjusting what you charge accordingly. If you are too slow, you will get caught out as your margins will erode. Fast. The days of once or twice a year price increase is gone. Stick with that and you will almost certainly be in trouble. Easy to say, less easy to do. In our case, its a several day excercise to update the various systems and websites with new pricing, advising trade accounts, doing price lists etc.

Thanks. You are braver than me. It would worry me forever more.

Can i ask what you used?

Wishful thinking when you consider that 99% of houses with a decent EPC will be hideous boxes crammed on in estates. And still poorly built. If you want to live in something "nice" its likely to be old. In circa 6 years of looking at potential houses for my final move, ive not seen a single "newer" house that ticked most of the boxes. The only viable alternative is to build one. Which of course is why we are here.

Thats not likely as estimates vary between £100-200k per household between now and 2050. No government is going to be upfront about that. Its also not feasible without a very substantial reduction in living standard.

This ^^^. If you just look at it as "money for chums", all of a sudden lots of stuff makes sense. Like 0% on Insulation only if its installed by an "authorised" firm. Who owns a lot of these firms? Chums, donors etc. Or if you fancy a slightly less clear cut, tin foiliy theory, the WEF vision. Which is essentially the transfer of all wealth from the many to the few. Well underway as we speak. Once the recession is over, one guess to who the winners and losers will be.

Id hazard a guess that the cap stone have a groove on the underside to stop the water tracking back to the wall. I forget the correct terminolgy. The motar probably doesnt have that so water tracks back. Extend the groover through the motar with a grinder. Job jobbed. As Radian says, suspect the bricks were damp. Assuming its a cement based render, id expect that to fail at some point.

Handily, the forklift barely gets used. Just occasionally when needed. Makes no semse to have it really, but as i own it, it comes in useful. even when i di use it, it will be for 20 mins. Im unable to identify battery capacity More research required..

Late to the party as always, but im all ears! Mechanical relays and timers. No electronics. Ace. Good as this thread is, its lost me a little on the electronics side. Have you expanded on this anywhere on the forum? Building opposite at work has a massive solar array thats never been connected. And isnt going to be. Im hoping they take it as part of the works they are doing. That aside, its occured to me i have a forklift. It has batteries. Is this another money saving opportunity?

I did most of mine with a needle gun. Air powered, so quite light. A trelawney one. Had it years, great piece of kit and can just get away with a 1.5hp portable compressor. Damaged the surface of the bricks a bit, but the prying the plaster off was doing the same as they were very soft. As it was being replastered, not really a problem

No one seems to care about litium leaking into the environment. Id go so far as to say its going to be an environmental disaster many years from now. All the batteries from phones, laptops and other consumer electrical stuff just goes straight to landfill. Eventually thats going to end up in the ground and our water.

When you say "solid" do you mean no cabity, just a single wall? In which case, proceed with caustion as its likely to have no DPC, so your airtightness may create a host of other problems. My main issue with them is noise. Some will say its not a lot of noise, minimal in some cases. But its noise all the same. Plus of course, and discussed here before, all the other buggers in the village with log burners filling up the valley with smoke. Which would then get pulled in!

Im with you 100% Knowing what i know now, id never fit a treatment plant over a septic tank given a free choice. Ive got a vortex. Which we fitted. The reality is it needs maintenance, uses electricity and makes noise. They all will to some extent. Septic tank is passive. Just sits there. Can you not fix the baffle, and renew the drainage field?

The early signs od damp would definitely concern. me. Its pretty much the only reason the salets would be coming through. Id take a guess and say the wall itself will be damp were you to check.

I have used limestone tiles. Pointed up with lime mortar. Without time on your sude i would view the limecrete as a "safer" option. Concrete might be ok, but might not be. Limecrete will give you the best chance. It is more expensive though.

The real problem is that the timber rots. But you cant see that until its too late. If i was buying a house with that done to a conventional roof, id by budgeting for a new one.

Hmmm. Bit of a contradiction? Worked fine, but have salts and discolouration. My conclusion i think would be different from yours on the fine bit.

I think you need to establish whats going on with the walls as well before making decisions. As ive posted before, i started with the issue of wet walls, properly wet, enough to rot the socket back boxes. House (well front part) is mid 1800's, no DPC, brick. humidity usually around 90% There were issues. The 2 obvious ones were high external ground level on the gable end, and an uncapped chimney. They were easily fixed. Externally, below the render, it was pointed in cement. Removed and redone with lime. Externally things improved. Following a visit by the river, was the push i needed to strip of the gypsum plaster. Having done that, again the wall dried but it remained damp above the floor. Floor was concrete on a plastic dpm. After some months and things improving no further, i decided time for a lime floor. So up it came. The effect was, frankly more pronounced that i could have hoped for. In the end i had no floor for a few months. Dried out completely. The walls and the soil. Ended up like a dust bowl! So why am i rambling on? Because, for me, it was obvious that the concrete slab was the issue that was driving the moisture to the walls. Which couldnt lose the moisture effectively. As you say, lots of conflicting info. Im working on what i see with my own eyes. The lime floor, on foamed glass, has been down since early Jan. No issues to date. Humidity spiked when the floor went in but now down to 50% No signs of damp in the walls. Granted its maybe a bit early to be 100% confident. But im reasonably confident. The real issue with making the decision is that to really understand whats going on means living with it for a while. For me that was no issue, but that doesnt work for most. Plus every case will be different. Some will get away with a concrete floor. Some wont. In my case it was pretty clear. But, why would you take the risk of concrete, other than cost? One advantage of the glass/lime was less excavation next to walls with bugger all foundation as the glass is also doing job of the sub base. Total depth from top of floor to soil, 225mm. Of course, if the house was damp even "as built" then of course rectifying later inappropiate materials isnt going to fix it anyway! No easy answers! Unless you are really keen and retrofit a dpc to the walls. Though thats probably only sensible if its brick with straight course. Old building walls id guess is stone?

There have been a couple or three very recent threads on exactly this. Id recommend you read them.