Roger440

That link is wrong on so many levels. The new rules coming into force do not mean your septic tank is no longer legal, UNLESS its discharging to a watercourse. Their proposed worms are for the soakaway. If you have a soakaway, then the new rules dont apply. Plus of course, id like to see anyone prove that the worms have made a system compliant for discharge to a water course. Do they have an EA cert for this? Errr, No Irresponsible marketing and taking advatage of peoplesognorance.

Interesting. This i assume is because its resistant to water unlike plaster? I was going to do mine in lime, so after its got wet it can just dry out. Hadn't though of doing it this way.

When you say rendered, do you mean inside or outside. Assuming outside, what did you do on the inside?

Im unclear how you think this wont cause damp issues? Where will the moisture currently exiting the wall go. Assuming you have no dpc of course.

The OP doesn't say ifit has a DPC or not, but id guess not. In which case it must be a breathable solution. Anything gypsum/cement based will very likely cause damp issues. Indeed i have this problem, where the walls were covered in some sort of board with, in places a void behind, leaving nowhere for the moisture to go. This applies equally to exterior. Mike wye and theres another who escapes me do all this stuff. https://www.mikewye.co.uk/product/lime-plaster/ The key on old buildings is dont try to stop the moisture, you will fail. Unless you fancy retrofitting a DPC.

As Dave said, perculation test as a matter of priority, ie, BEFORE you buy it. If you cant install the required soakaways, you cant build!

You can get cavity wall insulation that goes in as a liquid and then becomes, effectively expanding foam. Aside from some of the obvious advantages, it fully waterproof and ones of its claimed features is for use in flood prone houses. So it would be full fill and flood proof. Arguably, you could just do the 1st meter, then normal cavity insulation from thereup. Its expensive! https://www.completeinsulations.ie/spray-foam-cavity-wall-insulation/

Im with you on this!.News to me too.

By that would i be correct in assumimng inside the CU it would no longer be necessary?

Mainly because as they run up the wall, they will have to do a 90 degree turn which will look awful as they will stick out. It certainly a very visible area. Then of corse the same again inside. Currently its a plastic CU, though i guess i could change that. Even if i came in closer to the floor, ive still got to turn a 16mm cable through 90 degrees. I suppose could try going through at an angle, but its conventional brick and block with cavity. Still look crap though.

Thanks for the pics. Follow the logic on heatshrink on the single conductors. Hadn't thought of that. Like yours its all "inside" the cupboard with electrics in.

Im guessing thats the basis for the argument?

Bet thestuff was clean though :):):) The parts washer is actually purpose made with a waterbased cleaner.

This is what i was trying to say. So what you are suggesting you both believe to be acceptable? If so, thats good There is a school of thought on the electricians forum that it isn't. Using logic says its OK though.

This too !

Possibly. but logistically it makes no sense. Plus the summer house and sewage supplies are already in. But need re-doing. Neither comply with much in the way of regs, and the sewage supply has only just been put in! So much for Part p registered electricians!

Well 10 "might" be OK. But given the equipment likely to be in it, and the possible distance (depending where it ends up, 16mm buys me a bit of margin. 10, not so much. To put it in perspective: 3hp compressor Possible boiler Lighting (lots 2 x 3kw fans 3kw parts washer Ramp And if it goes at the other end of the garden, 200 ft away

Im not worried about the load end. Just the house end.

Think we are talking cross purposes? As there is no garage yet, im only installing the cable to it while i can. So ALL the supplies need to come from the house.

Ive got a second CU. It used to supply storage heaters, so got bags of capacity. Its still connected on the incoming side, but not on the outgiong. Terminating all these supplies in a box just to swap to twin and earth is going to get awfully busy!

One will be the garage, so thats going to be 16mm. The others are, outdoor lights, sewage treatment plant, and electric gates.

If you have the space, its a no brainer. They are just so cheap now. Spent 13 years using ramps! If i had a choice of 2 poster id get one with a screw mechanisim. Not very common now, but infinitely more controllable if lowering the car over an engine for example. I think they fell out of favour as if the nut fails (cant remeber its proper name) then it falls down. Wont happen if you look after it though.

I need to run 4 outside supplies. As they will all be going underground at some point, they will all be in (various sizes) SWA. Obviously they will run up the side of the house. At this point, assuming this is all legit, i would enter a junction box, where the SWA outer will be terminated and an earth cable then run to the consumer unit through the wall from the back of the junction box. The rest of the conductors, my intention was to strip back enough of the outer sheathe after the earth termination to run the conductors all the way to the relevant breaker. Reading on the interweb, it suggests that once i have stripped back the sheathing, from that point the cable is no longer "as manufactured" so technically not correct. If i dont do this, i would need to terminate in the junction box and join it to short bits of twin and earth. Which seems daft. And another joint for no good purpose. Is the considered wisdom that im OK with running the SWA conductors all the way to the consumer unit? Correctly terminating the SWA outer at the junction box?

From a practical "working on cars" perspective, a 2 poster (like this) wins hands down every time. There is almost no job you cant do. However, in a domestic setting, they take up a lot of space, need height, and are always "there". A good compromise, assuming you have head height, is a full height scissor. You can still do 95% of what can be done on a 2 poster, but when its down you have a flat floor. Down side is they are MUCH more expensive than a 2 poster. And need 2 recesses in the floor. After that, a half height scissor. Ideally these need a shallow well, but you can just lay them on the floor. 4 posters really are quite big, and quite limiting and you still need the height. Been round the loop a million times. Full height scissor is my 1st choice as you can use the space flixibly.

I did this. Definitely recommended