SteamyTea

So could the alternative if it is not sized right and your water pressure is not good/consistent enough. I can't think of any reason why you cannot change the breaker. You will need an RCD (or an RCBO) as it is shower. What power shower where you thinking of fitting?

Then you will be needing a 500 lt cylinder then

You can do a theoretical study. Take some basic assumptions and scenarios and run them though Excel (it is what Solver is for). So if you know the quantity of water going though the recovery unit, the temperature differences and the efficiency of the unit, you can get a good idea.

As an experiment 2 years ago, I heated my 200 lt, E7, unvented cylinder to 50°C, then turned it off. Having my usual short showers of about 30 lt of water at 38°C, it lasted two days. So that was about good enough for one person and about 100 lt of water that was warm enough (the last shower it was as hot as it could go, no cold added). As some of you may know, I have limited the times that my E7 comes on to around a maximum of 3 hours a night, so 9 kWh in total. I should really try and find the data and repeat the experiment as I now have more insulation around the cylinder. This is something I have thought of doing, just a bit of rewiring and heating less of my cylinder. Generally, if the water has dropped to below 35°C, then half an hour of topping up (1.5 kWh) is enough for a bath.

I think there are a few confusing things gong on here: There is the 'best' future proof energy source. The most efficient method of using that source. The detail of using that source. Quite simply, we don't know what the future holds, so we can only rely on history. From research I have done in the past, the average energy bill is about 5% of the average wage, almost regardless of which developed country you are in. This consistent mean pricing is brought about by different technologies and build qualities. So you really need to look at other places in the Americas and Northern Europe to see what they are doing. I also have a bit of a plea, can we stop talking of 'taking a shower', 'having a bath' or 'turning the heating on'. These are very subjective terms and don't help anyone design and plan a system. As an example, I have my 'heating on', it is a 1 kW fan. It has been on for about 30 minutes, and as I am going out, will be 'off' in bout 10 (if the thermostat don't kick in). I had a bath this morning, took 80lt of water at 42°C. Now any of us can work out what we are using, so can we before we start talking about 'the top third of the tank' or whatever. Numbers are needed to make these decisions. Thanks.

When I was a kid, my little cousin got a thorn in her finger, she came running to me and asked if I had any cider for it. I asked why she wanted cyder rather than a plaster. She replied that her big sister said she always felt better with a prick in cyder. I will get my coat

Bet you both smelt of rotten fruit after. Dirty fxxkers !! (found a word that the swear filter missed, brilliant)

Hard to say what is best without some detail. But I think that for water heating on a budget either inline heater or E7 and a relatively small cylinder (all depends on occupancy). As for the fabric, it is hard to separate insulation and airtightness. The two work/don't work in conjunction with each other. You can get away with less insulation if you have good airtightness 'after' the insulation i.e. airtight layer on the outside. But, if you have really good airtightness, then you really need to fit MVHR, which puts the price up. Ideally, you want good windows, good floor and ceiling/roof and reasonable walls, it depends of the relative areas where you spend the money. Then design the place to make fitting MVHR easy. Then a small ASHP for the space heating . It could be Air to Air or Air to Water and underfloor heating. If Air to Water, it can be combined with a Sunamp and get some pre heat from the buffer tank. Then PV into the Sunamp. Roof integrated can be cheaper than 'normal' on the roof. The main thing is to look for bargains now and buy them up, even if they are not needed for a year or two.

Some of the older members and refugees may remember that Damon was working and a self setting/programmable room stat. He has asked me to post up a link to the website. Hopefully it is not too commercial and others find the project useful. https://myradbot.com/

Why I never go out with anyone unless they will sleep in a tent on a third date.

Just change the K to another L and spit all over the letter, works a treat.

What are the extra 2 minutes for? or is it best not to ask

Do you have long showers and full baths. I run my 200 lt DHW at 50°C (ish) and can get 4 showers out of it (or a half filled bath and 2 showers) usually. A couple of things may account for this. I have E7 and usually use the water within a couple of hours of the power going off. I have put a lot more insulation around the cylinder, reducing the losses from about 3 or more kWh/day down to about 1 kWh/day. There has been times in the past when my old lodger would stand under the shower until it goes cold, leaving me with a very luke warm shower at the end of the day, but generally that was the exception, not the norm. Are the modulating? If so, then, assuming the price difference is not ridiculous, go for the larger one. With regards to the efficiency differences of vented or unventilated, I fail to see the difference if everything else is equal i.e. insulation levels, surface areas, pipe lagging and run length. I may be missing something there (not being a plumber), but a small 'hole' to allow for ventilation is not going to account for much. Knowing what the weather is like down in Cornwall (he says sitting in a friends unheated house in North Shropshire), there are so few days when the temperature goes below 5°C in a year, and hardly any when it is below 0°C in a decade, you have to question the cost benefit of installing 'emergency weather heating'. Last year I only used a fan heater (was a mild year), this year was a little bit chillier, a little bit earlier, so the fan heater came out a week or two earlier, but it then warmed up again. I usually 'turn the heating on' when the daily mean temperature falls below 9°C.

I always used a daily diary when running factories, they called me Mr Pad in one place. Proved its worth many times.

Hans never mentioned making men redundant. Being single, I find that I can just lean against it for the desired affect.

Is that like tendenitis If you want to do this early Tuesday evening (set fire to things), I am going to be fairly close to you (well about 50 miles away). We can video it then. Hans Rosling thinks that the washing machine has done more women's health, education and independence that anything else.

Embalm it in 10/40 motor oil, then you can, at your leisure, revive it with WD40. Or for a more permanent disposal, cremation. Fill coffin with gasoline and switch on.

Can you get it via Kodi?

Bet that is a relief. Then the fun begin now.

You could test the idea with a fan heater. Just point it at the MVHR extract in the room and see what happens. I think the main problem is that MVHR is not designed to cope with the higher temperature differences and the greater airflow that a vented tumble dryer produces.

Not for much longer maybe http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/business-37701427

About what I currently pay on Day Rate and E7

And here is some of the history: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Horsepower

Interesting report, there seems to be no mention of the silicon finish. Or, again, am I missing something.

Slightly off topic, but as this is a free thinking subject, I am going to ask the question. If the silicon top coat moisture impermeable and the lime/Pavatex isn't, where does the moisture from higher internal humidity go. I may have missed something in the wall build up.