SteamyTea

Did you offer him a cuppa? I did when I had my shed delivered at about that time.

I had a similar issue with a job. Two identical, large pneumatic couplings. One was a straight though, the other had a hole on the side. The one without the hole cost more, no matter which way I calculated it. Came down to there being more material overall and more labour involved. Charged the customer more money for the cheaper one mind.

well said.

Not how I would do it. Depends on which type of resin you use. You don't have to lay the mat up to each edge. In fact I would not attempt to do that. I would stagger the layers anyway, then same with any joining strips. That way, there would be less of a thickness difference. I would also apply the flow coat/top coat/glaze to 95% of the already laminated area. This top coat is what really keeps the moisture out and is really the hardest to apply properly.

The 'newer' low styrene emission resins that came out about 30 years ago were a revelation. Could abuse them something rotten and seemingly get away with it. My old boss came to work for me on a large project when I was working on site for a couple of months. To save a few quid for the customer he started to use an old, but cheaper polyester resin. The parts lasted a few days in service. Now if anyone wants to buy an osmosis free, high temperature resin system, I still have it for sale. Not cheap, but cheaper than the alternatives. I am still amazed that no one has cottoned on to what I did, especial the boat builders. It did cost me a contract to make wind turbine blades for one of the few large turbine manufacturers back in the early 90's. They are not about anymore.

I think this is the difference between a DIY bodge and a professional service. But I may be biased as I worked in the composite industry for 25 years or so. I still itch.

It would work. A self-etching resin would make the bond just as strong. Most hand layup composites are done in multiple stages to get the desired thickness to avoiding temperature buildup, shrinkage and unevenness.

I did. But more thee material jamming between the disk and the guard. I have used angle grinders for decades and only twice 'sanded' the side of a finger. I am not sure what you are trying to cut. Are you cutting a screw/bolt from between two bit of wood i.e. stick the blade in the gap ad cut the bolt. Or are you trying to just knock the top off the screw and them pull the timber apart?

Under catalysing is a cardinal sin in the composite industry. You can get hardeners that have different 'speeds' so that you still get full polymer crosslinking. If you have not already fitted the roofing sheets, you could coat them in GRP before fitting. That way you can do it inside and only have a few joints to seal site. I have never understood why it is done totally onsite, that is just making an easy job difficult.

Which is odd as the world is awash with investment capital. ThisIsMoney had a bit about British Gypsum/BPB shortage. Never bothered to read it.

How airtight is your house to start with? If it is poor, then just ventilate/MVHR where you need to. If it is good, then maybe a combination of a central MVHR and some single rooms may do it.

Let the disk get too small and whatever is being cut can get jammed between the disk and the guard.

The seemed to be really selling fan coils as an extra.

Poofs https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shin-kicking

Saw the architect this evening, shall PM you his number.

You could go for a cheap freestanding kitchen at first, then jiggle it about until you are happy. Then buy a 'proper' one. Ok you pay VAT on it, but that is relatively tiny in the scheme of things, and you never know, you may like the free standing one.

Thermal blind maybe.

Eewwwwwwww

I started off on a PET, then a Mac, now Windows and Linux.

Is the Chelsea Clinton?

Try Charles Green in Redruth http://www.charlesgreendesign.co.uk/ If I see the one architect I know, I shall have a word and see if he can recommend someone that is close to you.

That's interesting research. Back in the late 1950's and early 1960's, my Father was a project engineer for Shell. He was part of a team building a new refinery in Brunei (we were economic migrants before the term was unpopular). Part of the project was to lag all the high temperature pipes with asbestos. This was done my mixing it up with a binder and slapping it on by hand. Though my Father was not actually doing the work, out of the 4 British engineers on the project, 3 died of asbestosis. They all died before they were 65. My Father was the lucky one, cancer of the spine got him, but at a decent age. So probably genetics plays a small part, not the major influence. The risks of asbestos were well know even back then. I often wonder how many of the 100's of Indian workers died of it. Do the right things, get it removed properly.

750 W is quite a lot. Would heat all my DHW, 6 times over, every day.

The responsible thing to do is remove them properly. Saves anyone digging them up unwittingly in the future. The cost of doing it now is cheaper than later. Trouble is you have to bear that cost.

Jeremy, floor area is 140m2