SteamyTea

If you have a heat pump, or use resistance heating, it is easy to divert the power to a normal cylinder. If that electricity comes from your PV, and goes via a heat pump, there will be times when for every kWh of PV generated, you get 3 or 4 kWh of thermal energy.

Put it into the largest, or coldest one.

Are the flats on separate meters (probably best) or sub meters (better for you, not so good for tenants). You may be better off just pumping it into one flat.

Some PV power can easily be diverted to them, and the DHW store.

Modern ones are very controllable. They have timers and good air temperature monitoring. Panel heaters are alright, and just like a storage heater, or any type of heater, they need to be sized correctly. The largest expense is going to be DHW. Do you really want your tenants paying standard rate for that. 20 minutes @ 10 kW is around 60p a day. About double what I pay on E7.

Storage heaters, size them correctly and they will last decades. Assuming a good water pressure, then maybe an inline heater, if pressure/flow is bad, then storage and a pump/accumulator. If you can fit a vented system, then you have no certificates/annual checks needed. If you have hard water, then you will need to fit and maintain a water softener, can't rely on tenants to do that. Should be able to divert PV easily to the DHW system. Or ask a plumber and they will come along with a complicated and expensive system for you, maybe even a Sunamp.

That's interesting. Depending on the wall orientation to the sun, it is really measuring energy change (of the building fabric), rather than temperature. It is really energy levels that need controlling with either additional inputs to the house i.e. heating, or subtract energy i.e. extra ventilation or active cooling. With a few weeks of data collection it should be possible to collect enough data to work out the characteristics of the house to make a system that is a bit more predictive., even if it is just a simple lookup table, rather than a formula (but the formula is pretty simple, Newton worked it out a few centuries ago).

Pocster fiddles during the night It was a horrible sight. All we knew the lights went out. And Buildhub had a terrible fright. (and a law suit)

I don't think that LED lighting is a replacement for natural light, think it is more a supplement or used in totally controlled areas with no natural light. Different plants use different parts of the light spectrum, and they can change their needs throughout the year. This is why leaves change colour. Some plants also need a very definite amount of light before they start producing seeds/crops.

I use 4G, plenty fast enough for me and at £20/month, that fibre price is 100 months worth.

Was you fiddling a couple of days back and you broke our internet?

Not at all. What i am saying is that the insulation levels need to be better.

This is my solution to stop @Ferdinand's cats. Sharp slate off cuts.

Not so far from my Mother's. Quite a few people around you still doing it. https://www.yell.com/s/glass+fibre+services+and+supplies-surrey.html You may be better off contacting a few and asking if you can buy some materials. And don't forget acetone and hand cleaner.

If you lived down here I would come over and make a video of it, with @joe90doing the work.

Most likely is putting in to much hardener and running out of time, but still trying to put it right. There comes a time when you have to stop, and then, when it is fully cured, get the angle grinder out. The other problem is not using enough resin and getting dry patches (this also happens when it sets hard before it is consolidated with a roller). It is also not just temperature dependant, UV light sets it off to. so working indoors and working outdoors can be very different. But if you do a square metre at a time, with half metre overlaps (assuming at least 2 layer of 450GSM mat here), you will only be mixing up a couple of kilos at a time. I would also make up something that makes cutting the mat easy. I made a table with the mat on a stand. That way I could roll the mat out and cut it with a Stanley knife (a basic one, don't try with a retractable blade one). By having a dedicated mat cutting area, you will not get resin on the mat before it is used.

Get an 8 by 4 sheet of whatever is going to be your roof covering. Then say it up into 2 by 2, make at least one upstand, and one external radius (the bigger the better). Then have a play. You can try different methods of applying it i.e. brush, roller, prewetted mat. You can also screw a bit up and find out the best way to recover from it. Also worth doing some bits in multiple seconds. Mat usually has one cut edge and one uncut. Use the uncut edge to overlap a cut edge.

Yes, because the supply temperature is lower. They are not magic radiators, all you need is a larger surface area, so two radiators instead of one is the same as one double radiator. (as you usual it is a bit more complicated as have to have the return temperature correct to)

Waste disposal is a broad term though. The person that picks up the bins from the street would only need sensible levels of training, though they may be be qualified in the field, or other fields. My 'bin men' are very articulate and interesting, though they are jobsworth that will not pick up legitimate stray rubbish. The person that designs, commissions and runs a land fill site is probably a Degree or Masters qualified engineer or chemist. Not that you would often see that person on site as they are probably running a dozen sites. But the person that runs the department may well just be someone that got lucking in the politics of local government. They may, or may not be qualified. And the leader of the local council is elected and any qualifications they have may have no relevance to the job.

I always suggest that people practice before hand. If you can get yourself a small kit, and you have a bit of dry space, give it a go. You will learn more in 3 practice runs than doing a roof for the first time.

Yes it is. I think we need to get the term 'technician' a better reputation. I am not sure about now, but a decade ago technicians had done a BTEC. I think this is the real problem. I stopped counting the levels at 40. And I am at Level 7. https://www.gov.uk/what-different-qualification-levels-mean/list-of-qualification-levels

Poshest car in the street. Guy has another one that he take to rallies.

Must be a Kentish thing. When I was at school there (was a boarding school), one of the boys got caught with a catalogue in the wood at the end of the grounds. Probably a Barrister now.

I only have a tiny patch of earth to work with, so have most things in pots. Last year I decided to get rid of a lot of the pots, so just tipped them out onto the ground, levelled it off, and decided to see what would happen. I also had some bamboo that I dug up and put in pots, then neglected, for 6 years. This spring I made a planter out the front, moved the small grass that was growing and put the bamboo next to it. All taken very well. Including the wind blown/bird pooped echiums.

This will account for a lot of your heat losses. Because there is little insulation, the UFH will have to run at a higher temperature, which increases the losses to the ground. You may find you are better off having radiators rather than UFH.