SteamyTea

120mm² For a 10 metre run. https://www.solar-wind.co.uk/info/dc-cable-wire-sizing-tool-low-voltage-drop-calculator and the circuit breaker will be huge. This sort of thing would need very careful design, probably better going up in DC voltage. 48V system would only need 35mm² 96V would only need 10mm² Now you are into 'normal' cable sizes. https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/96-volt-5kw-6kw-7kw-power_62450791324.html?spm=a2700.7724857.normalList.127.159a6819aXCwIO (This might be a grid tied inverter, but you get the point)

Have a look at inverters that can me installed together, rather than 1 inverter that can 'do the lot'. It is a big ask to expect a single unit to deliver either 3W for a light bulb and then 7 kW or more for cooking.

Are these small (relatively) inverters OK with induction loads?

I fancy having a play with some of those systems, I like polyurethanes. If you have some left over, let me know.

Really, more than most working people in Penzance, Camborne and Redruth probably earn. See how the colours don't match when housing costs are taken into account.

I was unwilling to pay the extra for that, and no slots free on a Monday, may day off. Hopefully they will turn up on Wednesday before I go to work, but I think they use Hermes. Friday 21 August 2020 by Neil Tollfree Amazon offers option to pre-report lost parcel if delivery assigned to Hermes Amazon will now offer customers the chance to pre-report a lost parcel if the delivery has been assigned to Hermes. “If your delivery is assigned to Hermes, then it is pretty much certain that package will end up left up a tree, under a motorway flyover, or on Ebay,” explained Amazon representative Simon Williams. “So, from Monday, as soon as a delivery is assigned to Hermes, customers will have the option to immediately report the parcel as missing and request a replacement or refund. “There will be no need to wait for the inevitable ‘We’ve left your parcel in a bin in an industrial park six miles away’ card to come through your letterbox, everyone will just assume that, because it’s Hermes, that’s going to happen anyway.” Amazon customer Mark Hammond approved of the plan. “Really good idea. Will save a lot of time,” he said. “Only the other day, I got a card through my letterbox from Hermes saying that as no-one was in, they’d left my parcel on my doorstep in a parallel dimension. “So, then I had to spend the rest of the week reading up on trans-dimensional physics and creating a portal to the parallel dimension and when I finally went through the portal, I found they’d left the parcel in a pile of dog-shit and then piled more dog-shit on top of it. “I wouldn’t have minded, but I was in all day.” Hermes responded to Amazon’s move saying ‘f**k off, we’re Hermes, we don’t give a shit. C**ts.”

No, I am totally right. If the resins are correctly proportioned and mixed with the hardener (misnamed catalyst, though it is really an oxidiser) then there is nothing for the water to react with (it is free hardener that causes the gelcoat to fail, when mixed with water the PH changes and dissolves the polyester molecules). What you are describing is bad workmanship and will fail prematurely, even in the absence of water. Thermal expansion and contraction will see to that. This is why prepreg was developed, it takes out the human element from it. I developed, over 30 years ago, an 'ismosis' free system for high temperature and high humidity environments. The system is still for sale, but not cheap. It is way over the top for a roof coating though.

No it isn't. The misnamed 'osmosis' is caused by the gelcoat failing. This is why the moved over to epoxy resins. The molecular crosslinking is greatly improved compared to modern polyester resins.

Not just the m² that is important, the periphery has to be taken into account. A 10m by 10m square has a periphery of 40m. A 1m by 100m has one of 202m

Quite simple and not too large. Have you thought of what you are going to do about finished edges (the ones you can see from the ground)?

Once the joints are layed up the final top coat could be done a few days later. How big is this roof and how complicated a shape. It is not to do with being waterproof, more to do with water absorption.

Would be my concern too if the whole job was to be done, and the low temperatures. Build a decent shed, you know it makes sense.

As far as I know, the fake stone pillars are still outside the entrance of the Heathrow Excelsior Hotel, made them in 1984 (hotel has been renamed).

1.22 by 2.44 (8 by 4, the world is built from it). The trouble with either just coating with resin, or putting up plain boards is that they will absorb some moisture. So much safer to get them coated properly first. It is hard to stress just how important keeping everything dry is. It is not unusual for a boat to have the gelcoat stripped off because of problems (known as osmosis, but is actually a mismatch of materials), then the shell is stored in a shed for months to dry out.

Not far from my family. You need a metre extra at least to work in. A metre all round us best. Should be able to do 4 boards a day if done individually, as long as you have somewhere to place them on their edge once part cured.

Yes. Where are you? I could do with a trip up country to see family. Have you got a large shed?

Managed to order my new oven and hob from AO. Apart from the teaser prices on eBay, they were also the cheapest, even when delivery was added on.

Fibreglass is a manufacturer of materials, it should be glass fibre, as opposed to flakes or powders. Bit like saying Hoover instead of vacuum cleaner, or even thermal mass instead of material thermal properties. Many different plastics can be reinforced with glass.

Yes, just make sure it is sanded to get a mechanical lock. I don't know of any videos. Could make one if you were closer.

Put at least 2 layers of 450gsm CSM on. You can leave it at 1 layer around the edges. Wait till fully hardened, lightly sand down. Get all the dust off, then apply topcoat, except for the edges where the joints will be. Then fit. Then lay 2 or 3 layers for your joints. The thicker the better as this will be 'resin rich'. Then, once fully cured, lightly sand, clean and apply topcoat. The topcoat will have a wax additive in it. So don't expect the normal resin to bind to it successfully. Also. By prelaying up the sheets you get good practice on using the resin.

How I would do it.

Basically yes. Damp boards can stop the resin curing where it makes contact, even if the outer is hard. This can lead to premature failure and a prolonged smell of styrene. Strong sunlight and high, or very low temperature can also cause problems. As I keep saying, if done right you can't get better, if done wrong, it gives it a bad reputation.

Because the resin needs an oxidising agent to link the polyester chains together. So it tries to get the oxygen out of the water, but it cannot break the strong H2O bond, so the water just gets dispersed in the free stryrene, which is carbon and hydrogen, and does not need anymore hydrogen. Or It just makes a sticky mess.

Tie a knot in the flexible pipe.

Can you tow it behind a Crapi