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Posts
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Everything posted by SteamyTea
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ACH is poor to.
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I am waiting for a review from a non bearded, non self promoting, YouTuber. I did like the way the dish moves, can it be made into a bird and cat scarer.
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ICF window details - Be VERY careful
SteamyTea replied to magnethead's topic in Insulated Concrete Formwork (ICF)
I saw on here (or on the predecessor) that some well insulated places are attracting mould onto the exterior because the wall is now colder. I have never seen any real research into it, but like the idea. There is a set of relatively new buildings down here that after 2 years looked dreadful because of exterior mould on the East and North sides. -
When your contractor’s insurance doesn’t pay out!
SteamyTea replied to newhome's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Had a car insured with DL, was painful getting a claim settled, took about 18 months. A company best avoided. Think they were part of RBS once, and we know what shites they turned out to be. -
Stuff we did 40 years ago is still working. It does have to be done right, but then so should everything.
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You can get floor tiles that absorb sound. They used them in Milton Keynes shopping centre to stop that swimming pool echo. Can you use brick or block wall with plasterboard fitted onto resilience bars. You get a small service cavity that way.
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Tell the installer to try out a minimum install on another property to save some cash. Then they can compare like for like. These subsidies schemes are only selling you your own money back. Tossers.
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@PeterW Can a buffer be sized on the difference between power in and power out. That way you can decide how long the heat source is running for. You obviously need to know the performance 'curves' of the the source and sink in different weather regimes, but these are generally matched curves, do can be converted to a linear plot quite easily I think. Then it is just a case of deciding a range in the middle of the new chart to cover 99% of the expected conditions. Shall try a sketch what I mean later. Thinking a bit more about it, may need to break convention and put time on the y axis and plot heating time against cooling time.
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Reduce it to basics. You have a hot end, and a cold end [T]. The energy [J] travels from the hot to the cold. The shorter time it takes to do it, the more power is delivered [W]. Now you have all the units needed in thermodynamics. J is energy, W is power, s is time in seconds and T is temperature. A W is a J/s. All the rest is just metres [m] and mass [kg] to complete the system. Thinking about buffers, I suspect that there is a simple way to work out the volume [m³] from the ratio of power in and power out. Will ponder that as I stroll along the promenade to Newlyn and beyond.
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It is arithmetic, not mathematics. Arithmetic is pretty boring really, and easy to make a mistake, but we have speadsheets. Always remember that temperature, power and energy are not the same thing. Ideally a system would respond to external stimuli, so if the house only needed 500W to keep it at the desired temperature, the HP would modulate down to this, but when it needs 4 kW, it would deliver it, all be at a lower overall efficiency. Trouble is, life is not like that and a HP needs to run between fixed parameters of temperature and power. This is why a buffer is fitted, it allows absorption of a higher power (either though higher temperature or larger delivery volume) before it is needed. A buffer needs to be insulated just like any storage system, and it does not need to have storage at maximum temperature all the time (can't change the volume so temperature is the only variable). Microbore is the Devil's Vas Difference or Urethra, it gets blocked, and we don't want that.
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About a third of what we have lost. https://www.tuc.org.uk/research-analysis/reports/impact-covid-19-and-brexit-uk-economy
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No, they were saving them just for you.
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https://youtu.be/BQJKQjXpGQA?t=81
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First thing to decide is the thermal performance you want from this house. Then look at the best cost option to achieve it. All the rest is 'just' detail.
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Good, you can be the forums expert by the morning.
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Impress on him that you know what the technology is capable of, and the limitations, but you want it to work so that others can learn from it. A failed system tells people nothing in this circumstance, other than the designer is a twat. Have a hunt around the MCS site to find the design criteria that installers have to follow. Get your local weather data as well, Temperatures and RH, for as many years as possible, and at the best resolution you can get. Then you can do a risk analysis on the system frosting up.
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What is the orientation and size? Try glucophate to kill the weeds. Good time to start spraying is now.
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You also need to make sure there is plenty of room to fit one. If it is too cramped a space the plumber will do a crap job. With your quote, does it show insulation for relevant pipework?
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Looking to self build via community group bid.
SteamyTea replied to Mitch's topic in Introduce Yourself
With this sort of project, I usually defer to old GK Chesterton. "I’ve searched all the parks in all the cities and found no statues of committees" -
Yes, I forgot that, only now on my second mug of tea. I hate the clocks changing. Because the TRVs have shut most of the radiators down. I just think that all domestic HP systems need buffer tanks. I suspect that traditional gas combis would work better with them as well.
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Is that the worse case? Because makes it quite oversized. So should really be fitted to reduce the chance of short cycling, unless you have a large reserve of fluid in the radiators and pipework.
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It could be a way of fiddling the charging point numbers. Governments like to do that.
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That is about the same energy price when gasoline is a quid a litre. You obviously get better efficiency from an electric motor compared to an ICE.
