SteamyTea

You need to add the R-Values of all the wall components together, then take the inverse and see what it is. How do you work out the R-value of a structure? The R-value of a structure can be worked out by adding up the R-value of each individual component that offers a solid, consistent layer in the structure. Like this rudimentary ‘wall’ example below, the constituent parts come together to make the total R-value.

And if the same person had done it with lime, it would have been a double disaster. Don't mix up bad workmanship with choice of materials.

If you want your render to never dry properly, then choose lime. Don't fall for all that nonsense about it being breathable and flexible. You can mix ordinary Portland based cement to give you the same properties.

Was my thinking to.

Get a basic physics book. http://www.mhtl.uwaterloo.ca/courses/ece309_mechatronics/lectures/pdffiles/achall_web.pdf http://www.pgccphy.net/1030/phy1030.pdf And this one is useful: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Why-Buildings-Fall-Down-Structures/dp/039331152X Download the Building Regs: https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/901517/Manual_to_building_regs_-_July_2020.pdf https://assets.publishing.service.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/899279/Single_stitched_together_pdf_of_all_ADs__Jun20_.pdf Learn SI units, and then always use them, without exception. Learn basic algebra, statistics and geometry. Get used to spreadsheets. Make use of this website. https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ This is useful for terminology. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Penguin-Dictionary-Building-Reference-Books/dp/014051239X

Is it the line/service into the house, rather than the routers?

Do you think he may be after your place at a knocked down price?

Offer to buy their place, or at least the land that they want to develop. Then you have control over it.

I did a modelling study a few years back and found that it was better, for grid stability and reducing the large local losses, to just fit houses with small, <1 kWh, 3 kW power, batteries and inverters. I think the major problem with a PV/battery storage system is that the UK has clearly defined seasons due to our latitude. PV with battery storage may work well below the 'sunshine belt' sub 40° latitude (draw a line around the world that passes though Toronto and Madrid and that is the line that gives peak, land based, solar production), just not really viable in the UK. Even that large Tesla battery storage in Victoria, Australia, is for short term grid stability, not long term energy storage. If you really want to store PV energy, stick it in a water cylinder. Any left over can go into the grid and help lower all our emissions. All the incentives are about lowering emissions, not individuals personally benefitting financially. If you want to financially benefit from lower emissions, use less energy in everything you do. For the last half hour my house has been drawing 30W. The heating has been off since Sunday. It is 20.7° where I am sitting. And my car is doing 53 MPG, which is 1.2 kWh/mile, or about 3 times what a BEV uses, but still pretty good for 1.6 tonnes of steel. This gives me a dilemma. Fitting a new ASHP system will cost about the same as buying a second hand BEV. My house uses around 5 MWh/year, my car about 30 MWh/year. I will be financially better off getting a newer car, and the environment will benefit as well. And I may get my first car with a warning when the windshield washer bottle is getting low, and an mp3 player.

I think that is how they are meant to be earthed, i.e. not earthed. https://electrical.theiet.org/wiring-matters/years/2016/61-summer-2016/electrical-installations-in-caravancamping-parks-caravans-and-motor-caravans/

Comes as no surprise that the price goes up with demand, it would be really odd i it went the other way. Prices tend get closer to the mean price, that is the idea of offering variable pricing. It is not being offered to be nice for the end consumer, it is all about the generation side becoming more efficient.

Caravans are earthed differently to houses. Could that be an issue?

It is not the timber, it is the treatment used on it. Don't burn treated timber. The law is there for a reasons, don't think you are a better research scientist than the ones that did the research.

It is illegal to burn waste timber that has been treated.

There did seem an unusual amount of rain this winter. But gorse fires still happened.

A vector is a quantity and a direction.

Or more a case of driving at 50MPH instead of 90MPH. The air resistance goes up with the square of the speed. (Velocity and Speed are different)

Not always. If you lower the mean internal temperature by 1⁰C, you reduce the losses through the walls floors, roof, windows and doors, and the ventilation losses. But you have a colder house. This is not the same as reducing the ASHP, or any other wet heating system flow temperature by 1⁰C. With an ASHP, it may increase efficiency enough to counteract a longer running time. With a condensing boiler, it may mean you get less condensing and loose overall efficiency. Energy (kWh) is Power (kW) X Time (h). We should really calculate in seconds (s), but the numbers soon get s lot of zeros. Just to confuse things, the unit of energy is the joule (J), but there is a direct conversion to kWh. A watt (W) is a joule per second. So a kWh can be described as 1000 watts running for 3600 seconds or 3.6 MJ. Probably notice there is no mention of temperature (T) in the description of power and energy. Temperature difference is the important bit. No temperature difference (0∆T) no energy transfer, so no power used. Called equalibrium. Increase the ∆T and there is an energy flow (Q). If you see the term flow, flux or Q, then you know there is a time element involved. The usual letter for time is t, not to be confused with T for temperature (makes for a gun time in calculous ∆T/∆t). To confuse even more, when dealing with heating systems, surface area (m²) becomes important. This is why a properly installed under floor heating system may run at 28 to 35⁰C. It has a lot of area to distribute the energy over time. It is why, with traditional radiators they are run at a high temperature (up to 70⁰C) to counteract their small surface area. Heating an identical room, well the air in it, takes the same amount of energy. This is due to air needing the same amount of energy to be heated the same amount. This is known as the heat capacity (Cp measured by volume) or the specific heat capacity (SHC measured by mass). Air has a SHC of around 1 kJ/(kg.K). We should really always work with the kelvin scale as it removes odd results when passing 273K, or 0⁰C. Like all basic physics, the concepts are simple, it is the detail that gets confusing. Why I have avoided radiative heating in the calculations. It is the radiative element that can make some rooms feel warmer than the air temperature leads you to believe. Humidity levels can have the same effect. They can both be calculated, as can latent heating affects, but a wall thermostat only measures temperature.

I take it you don't live in that size space. My house is around 50m². Don't leave much space for storage. Hard to find a place to store a bike, a ladder, hobby stuff. Just my book shelves take up 1/30 of my usable space.

Not on the face of it. Would have to look at the spec if the unit and it's control system. But at the moment I am looking at the tide going out, which warms up the town. 12 hours time, the tide will cool the tide down again.

It is because people seem to have trouble grasping the difference between temperature, power and energy. There is still a misconception that lower temperature means lower power, and therefore lower energy by definition. This is wrong. Not many people have an ASPH larger than 12kW. But even small houses often have a 20 kW gas boiler. Now some of that oversizing is to allow DHW to be instantly heated (and that is not a great flow rate). But it does mean that during cold spell, an extra 8kW or so of power is available for space heating.

It is those few times a year when my space heating load doubled. Not much in the scheme of things, but hurts at the time. Heating is off now.

This is the problem I have. With small power loads, it is not worth me fitting an ASHP.

And not poisoning all the newts in your pond.

Physics Specific Heat Capacity of Water = 4.18 kJ.kg-1.K-1 So say you want to heat 200 litres of water from 8°C to 50°C 4.18 [ kJ.kg-1.K-1] X 200 [kg] X (50 - 8) [°C] = 35115 kJ To convert kJ to kWh, multiply by 0.0002777 35115 [kJ] X 0.0002777 = 9.75 kWh Assuming a 2.8 kW immersion heater, to calculate the time taken to heat 9.75 [kWh] / 2.8 [kW] = 3.48 hours Assuming two prices for electricity, E7 at 10p. kWh-1 and Standard at 16p.kWh-1 9.75 [kWh] x 0.1 [£.kWh-1] = 0.975 [£] 9.75 [kWh] x 0.16 [£.kWh-1] = 1.56 [£]