SteamyTea

I made a sauna hot box for drying our acrylic sheets before they were vacuum formed. Should have rented it out to the local swingers on the weekends, would have been more profitable.

If there are 30 million homes, and they use a mean of 15 MWh/year, then reducing that by a third would save 150 TWh/year. The UK, in 2019 used 1651 TWh of energy. So around 9% of our primary energy. Would be a little better than that as homes used delivered energy.

Isn't that something you write letters on? Does look a bit like a 3D printer.

@Crofter I am taking a keen interest in what you are doing. For many years now I have thought that directly heating the air is the better way to heat a space, the downside has been that most of the systems available are US systems, so generally oversized. There is an argument to be made that UFH is better, but there are downsides to it i.e. heat loss to ground, fixed position, repairs may be expensive. There are problems with air handling, main ones I see are the size of ductwork, flowrates and limited temperature, and then the big one, sound transmission between spaces. When I was a kid, our neighbours has a hot air system, and it was almost as good as an intercom system for attracting attention. I can imagine a drunken conversation where one half hears everything from another room. Would probably end badly.

My much smaller place is 35 years old. Doing the same as you, small insulation improvements and better airtightness, along with much better DHW management, means I now regularly use a third of the energy I used to, last year was almost a quarter. Daily monitoring helps. Going to be interesting as I now work days again, instead of evenings, that may push the usage up.

Probably between 10 and 12 years ago. They went bankrupt when the government (greenest government ever under Cameron) pulled the plug on the grant system.

The Forum's built in search engine to truly appalling. I find a proper search engine doing a site search is much better.

I have always wondered why this is not a standard practice. And why do a lot of windows designs stop replacement glazing being fitted from the inside. Looks a very similar system to what the Mark Group were fitting a few years back.

How big is the volume it is entering, will there be furniture in the way? Can you distribute the inlet into 2 or 3 in a line? Or is the 733 lt/s (0.92 kg/s) the total airflow for the whole building? The kinetic energy, is very small, so would not think it is noticeable.

Right. Do you really need an in and out for each space. Surely it depends on what temperature you want in each space. You may find that bedrooms can have extracts only, and living areas inlets only. I still think that using shadow gaps is the way forward, especially after looking at my dusty skirting boards earlier today.

Could you put in a secondary system that recirculates the air, but also heats it. More vents and pipes I know, but cheap to do. Double the pipe diameter and you quadruple the mass flow rate for any given flow rate.

Sounds like his onlyfans site.

What are you trying to make? Knowing that will make the choices easier.

Use a PU adhesive on the feet. There is a glue for everything.

My 20+year old speaker can go anywhere. Just listen to the solar powered quality. VID_20231009_133843135.mp4

Basically no. There is a heat loss spreadsheet on this site that will get you most of the way there.

I should be fully cured now, and had over a 100 heat cycles already, so should be alright. As an experiment, you could set your flow temperature to 35°C, see if it saves some energy and still makes the room comfortable. @JohnMo, @ProDave 48 hours of rain is not unusual here. You East Coasters are just not used to rain. But were have had two days of bikini weather, 22°C, been better than August, which was dreadful weather. Half term week soon, so weather will break then. Perranporth Beach yesterday.

The top thread stops the floor board/sheet moving, while the lower thread locates it on the joist. If there is a gap, the board/sheet cannot move downward. The 'squeaky board' sound is rubbing on the screw/nail shaft, not wood on wood, usually. You can get a similar effect using bolts, rather than screws. Just need to drill a clearance hole and make sure the heads are larger diameter so that they don't pull through.

Diet and move slowly.

Would it be possible to drill a large diameter hole, say 70% of the depth, then bond in a steel tube, with an ID ≤ 60% of the depth. A project for @Gus Potter to ponder.

I live alone, so put up with the ripples. I suspect if I had my own wife, I would be warm with rage most of the time. Someone else's wife, warm with passion maybe.

They have many rules. One is that if you want to overtake the school bus, you must physically stop your vehicle before starting the manoeuvre. They have 4 way junctions as well. You all have to physically stop, then whoever was first their has right of way. There is a roundabout in Boston, MA, that cause loads of confusion, thankfully there are a lot of British and Irish there, so it kind of works. I got let off speeding because there would have been extra paperwork because I was an alien. Did pass my driving test in Pennsylvania first time though. Dead easy.

@Pocster's chopper. Whoops, thought it was useless tools.

Yes. But there are different safety factors for different industries, and then longevity has to be taken into account. I don't think that finger joints are a problem in structural elements, as long as they are known about. I worked some someone that made an automated jointing machine for Barratt Homes, back in 1987, just before the timber frame scandal hit, that we are still paying the price for. More Scarfs, they can be engineered quite cleverly.

As SEs over engineer for safety, it is probably well within tolerances. Below is a scarf joint. It works on the same principle of increasing the contact surface area as finger joints.