Leaderboard

ok. update on this. my application was approved! now I need to supply commissioning documentation. they've asked for this: I'm ok with the 'As built Single line diagram/circuit diagram' as I already have this diagram which I think is what they're after (please correct me if I'm wrong!) Site layout and site location plans are fine as I can send the architects site plans with the head marked on them. my query is around does the above diagram show all the required protection settings that are needed for a G99 commissioning docs? I'm really hoping that I can simply send the above image and the site layout and location plans and be done with it! but I don't want to send in incorrect plans. can anyone who's been through this please assist with what's required here or if the above is all that's needed?

We started gas and quickly moved to ASHP. Really wouldn't bother going down the grant route for the ASHP you will just be ripped off with a unit way to big. ASHP like it all kept really simple, this also reduces costs, so no need for thermostats, mixers or pumps, buffers or volumisers, do it all from the ashp circulation pump. So UFH on ground floor and in bathrooms only is a good choice. Keep it to single zone, run 24/7 in weather compensation mode is best way to run in a new build. Make provision for panel heaters in bedrooms. Electric towel rad in bathroom. I would definitely look at Panasonic, easy to install and set up. You need to know your heat loss before progressing. So you need to understand your airtightness and ventilation strategy first. MVHR is for ventilation, if your house isn't going to airtight (better than 3) it's not a good choice, demand activation MEV would be better. Advice, go airtight, really well insulated, MVHR and ASHP. You may not be building a Passivhaus but read up on them, nearly everything is sensible and can be applied to any house. I would steer clear of companies that want to design something and you hand over loads of money for kit you don't really need. Once you get your head around MVHR it's pretty easy to design yourself. Same with the heating system, download LoopCad and design the loops yourself.

Your DNO wants to know where the generators are isolated so they can isolate them if they're working on your supply. You probably need a lockable AC isolator on the Luxpower unit and a note stating where in the house the isolator is. A copy of the drawing should be pinned up where the DNOs incoming supply/cutout fuse is located. When our DNO upgraded our transformer they checked the drawing and checked both systems were shutdown although they didn't lock off the isolators. They do actually use the info you give them!

http://www.cool-info.co.uk/multi_dx_systems/Multi-split Systems.html This appears to show five different setup variations based on a common central heating style flow/return rather than individual dedicated flow/return lines

Think the import / export meter should be after the CU so it captures all the loads on the CU not just the inverter / battery combination on the edge of the properties consumption / export.

What finish? What steel spec? How many corners? How many levels? What performance level? Access? Where is it? Define normal build? Stick or masonry? I have never hidden that I work in the industry and know full well that I could give you a meterage rate for a notional ICF build which would bare no relevance to the real world. Locally, in the last 6 months, we have had clients quoted £2.30/4" block labour only and £3. That in itself is higher labour rates than ICF. Add materials, insulation, cavity details, dpc, windows etc. The only true comparison is a rate inclusive of labour. I tell you what, you price up the OP's build in an alternative and I'll get it done in ICF and we'll see. Proper BoQ style, cards on the table. I'll plant a tree for every 10% price difference in your favour. Although I know that I can't plant half a tree.

Very very expensive. Get it designed and spec'd and sent out to specialist contractors. This is not a DIY job. It can look really crap if you get grout runs, bad formwork moulds, wrong colour etc.

I was guessing none of the cables were terminated with RJ45 plugs or into a patch panel to be honest, especially as they weren't labelled. Hence why I suggested something that would help with tracing (tone) as well as checking. Really cheap tone ones are a little hit and miss if the cables are bundled tightly.

Get a cat cable tester . You put a dongle on one end and tester on other . Piece of piss . Pocster knows best 👍

A bit of progress on the bay window. All the gaps have been filled in and built out. You can notice less sound from the outside too. Next stage in the membrane.

Back in 2010 we were the first Isoquick foundation system to be laid in England. Unfortunately the concrete laying did not go well. A combination of cost cutting, by not using a pump, and the concrete setting too quickly left large voids in the 200mm slab which were detected using ultrasonic testing. The results were confirmed by drilling core samples. Fortunately I had videoed the whole process which showed the mistakes made by the concrete installers, and the company doing the work for us accepted full responsibility. A month later we had a completely new slab. We just carried on, but a few weeks later than we had expected, but as the whole build took eight years it wasn't too bad.

Get yourself a tone tester. If he didn't test the cables either, something like this would be ideal and would get the job done in minutes... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/166191878185

Any reason why the wall couldnt be blockwork, add a micro cement finish to imitate the concrete?

Two options. Hire formwork that can be lined. Second. Hire a couple formwork joiners (a specific trade) and they will build your shuttering. Expect it to be an expensive endeavour. Full height for work like that can go horribly wrong and can be dangerous... I've done a lot of joinery and formwork, but don't have the balls for something like that.

You need to break down what MVHR does Extracts from wet rooms, so all the wet rooms temperatures will be averaged out by the time they get to the HE. But you are only extracting 1/3 to 1/2 the whole house volume each hour. So not much Supply air will pass through the exchanger and basically be within a deg or so if the outgoing air. Again you are only supplying the same volume as you extract each hour. So again not much. You bypass the HE if the outside world is cooler than inside the house, when inside is hotter than outside but at summer temperatures outside (not winter), but you are still changing the air in the house once every few hours. HE bypassing is stop making things worse not really fixing them. Open a couple of windows and you can do several air changes an hour with a cross flow. MVHR is just ventilation don't treat it as anything else. A floor several degrees cooler than the air can suck a lot of heat away. The other day the heat pump was pulling 7kW out the floor for about 1.5 hrs over a 2 hour period, just because the sun was out, it was about 20 outside. But this is really a topic for a different thread.

Yep have MVHR, I also thought MVHR means equal room temps and moving heat about, it doesn't work like that, it's just ventilation. But when the sun's shining it gets hot, MVHR is rubbish at moving heat. Also have UFH in cooling mode, but to get rid of heat quickly opening windows is best. UFH cooling, really just helps bring down the temps quicker than it would otherwise be and tempers the extremes. Our bedroom window is open most of the summer.

I think similar situation to my plot. It doesn’t get residential stamp duty until it becomes … an actual residence. So, I think you have (presumably) ag land with an ag barn on it. So £2K stamp duty on £250K. No extra 3% as not residential property. A lot of residential solicitors / conveyancers are not familiar with this. Land agents and commercial solicitors are though.

There is a specific gutter trim that should have been used, Google EPDM gutter trim and you’ll find it straight away. I think it needs ripping off and doing again as has been suggested, it wouldn’t take long or cost the original installer a great deal.

There's a great difference between using a bit of air-tight foam for specific purposes such as air-tightness round windows and joist ends and foaming up a whole roof. I think it's the latter application that upsets Bldg Soc's rather than the very reasonable use of small amounts for small applications (though I could be wrong and they may be more twitchy than I thought!)

Cad work is done for now. Meeting with the architect next week to try and finalise most of the window sizes and some other details. Almost finished printing the parts for the model and made a start tonight glueing it together. I’m using PLA plastic for the prints and super glue to stick it together.

I hate when people show off how quick their build was .