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Has anyone suggested rendering it yet?

https://www.completecareshop.co.uk/walking-sticks/walking-stick-accessories/walking-stick-clip-view-large?gclid=Cj0KCQjwiILsBRCGARIsAHKQWLPpSsJF6D8vK40m4_Thc7J1FaCk-XYjDcd89jfsNy71Q0hnG49xPvcaAq3mEALw_wcB

Ubiflex is the poor man's version of lead flashing Now I would have been a bit more smug had I though to apply the Ubiflex before the render went on, but I hadn't thought of it then. I did do it before the garage got rendered and it worked great. Now have 40m of ubiflex to apply to the main house but luckily for me, the render is (hopefully) getting replaced so I can nick in and do it all properly this time. Every cloud etc..

I really like the Ubiflex suggestion. In fact I am going to use Ubiflex extreme under my fibre cement boards and with this as the covering material for the insulation I will not need to cover over the expansion gaps. Thanks for sharing

Oh yes; I was going to foil tape all joints anyway. Rather make sure they aren't coming apart before I do that though...

"Naasah, yer wunt 10kW mate ... 's wot vey all 'ave round yur...... 10kW - at least."

What's the floor U value? What are the door and window U values and areas? What allowance has been made for thermal bridging? What's the ventilation heat loss rate? The floor area can be considered to have a lower ∆T than the walls and roof, as the ground temperature under a floor, pretty much all year around in the UK, tends to be about 8°C. Assuming that the floor U value is also 0.2W/m².K, that there is a 1m² area window with a U value of 1.6 W/m².K and a normal pedestrian door with a U value of 1.6 W/m².K, and with a low ventilation rate, for a ∆T of 20°C between inside and out (ground temperature assumed to be 8°C, and internal to ground ∆T of 12°C) then I make the heat loss about 345 W. I've not included an allowance for thermal bridging. Also, if the doors, window and floor U values/areas are not as assumed then the heat loss will be different.

Yes it has perforations.

I also love chickens and have 6 in a large fenced area in the garden. Don't let them out anymore as the fox loves them more than I do. WRT dressing your insulation, I used a 200mm strip of Ubiflex (fake lead flashing) to cover the insulation - runs from under battens for render and over the insulated up-stand and into gravel. It has a gritty finish and I think it's made of bitumen covered steel mesh - so flexible but tough. Comes in a few different colours and there are also cheaper versions from different brands.

Don't think all the subscribers are from here - got some friends to follow me and picked up some followers off a renewable energy website. But I think Buildhub is by far the best "expert" site I've come across for DIY advice.

“Having spoken to some experts” !!! i see subscribers are up by 1400% since your first post here. ?

A low loss header is really just a way of making a bypass valve without needing any moving parts. It doesn't usually have enough capacity to be useful as a buffer. They work by using two hydraulic switches, in effect. The flow in and out pipes are in line, as are the return in and out pipes, so flow normally runs straight across the header, in line with the pipes. If the flow is restricted on the downstream side, then the upper hydraulic switch trips the flow downwards to the return end of the header body. They work well for dealing with the case where the flow can be restricted by a slow to operate valve, or closed thermostatic valves, as they allow a bypass in much the same way as a bypass valve. The only slight issue with them is that they partially rely on the temperature differential between flow and return to maintain a reasonable degree of separation between the two sides. With a heat pump this temperature differential may be a bit low, so separation may not be quite as good as with a boiler. There are larger LLHs made specifically for heat pumps, like this one:

Yup, Ralph. I'm absolutely with you on that. All those integrated appliances are eye wateringly expensive, but a hob that I will be using all the time, I would find better value for money than some of those other gadgets. If you think those built in coffee machines have crazy prices, you've not seen the price of those glass doored wine fridges (even ones that only hold 5 bottles) or perhaps a Zip all in one tap, lol. I'm also still waiting to hear what on earth you cook in a teppanyaki pan, I thought they were large flat surfaces. DHD

I take the view that if I have to ask it's probably too much for me and I don't bother. We we're invited to a cooking demonstration at high end kitchen place. All very cool kit but I got a fit of the giggles when I was told the built in coffee machine was over £5 grand.

Firstly, if you need a brilliant supplier, I bought a load from these guys https://www.scaffoldingsupplies.co.uk/ and dealt with Rob, who was an absolute pleasure to deal with. I'm a complete newbie with Kwikstage but thanks to the guys on here, got the first floor of my scaffold up without too much issue. So here's my thoughts: 1. It would make sense to me to have a slightly longer ladder so you have rungs to hold while stepping on/off. 2. That's how I thought of doing it and how I've seen normal scaffold/ladders. I personally am going for stairs and and access transom when I go higher. 3. What I planned to do was to use normal scaffold to create the vertical that the gate would attach to, then use another scaffold pole to create the handrail that attaches to the vertical pole. 4. As per the advice I got on this post, I used a return transom on each level when turning 90 degrees. My build is Northampton if you ever want a visit. IIRC a couple of people gave the offer and great advice to see some in the flesh. I didn't go to anyones site but it would have been very useful to see exactly how it goes up. And for what it's worth, although it was work getting the scaffold up in the heat we had, I'm really happy I went down the Kwikstage route

If they are having to put up with construction noise in the week, wouldn’t it be nice to give them a break at the weekend. It depends what tool you are using and when, nail gun at 7pm, nope your not being a nice neighbour. Doing some painting at 9pm what’s the problem i think you need to evaluate each job and work out if you would like it, I personaly would have the hump with you.