Leaderboard

I've a normal, "quiet" light switch in the bedroom so we can turn the en suite light on with using the click-clack pull cord. SWMBO is a pita though for getting up in the middle of the night, using the loo then coming back and LEAVING THE F***ING DOOR OPEN! Not that it annoys me in the least.

Sorry, I somehow missed this yesterday. Probably just needs tightening, but worth checking that the rubber seal is intact and seating properly.

It puts to much air into the mix which makes it go like fluff. Once it's hard you end up with voids in the motar so it's not as strong as it should be. With voids then frost can get into it and it will crumble. I always used this type where you have the small bit at the top to measure it out. Squeeze the main bottle to fill the small bit and drop it into a bucket of water then into the mixer. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Multicrete-One-Shot-Plasticiser-Concentrated/dp/B07BBJRT2C/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?_encoding=UTF8&qid=1567361968&s=gateway&sr=8-1&srs=5309686031 To get a good motar the secret is just to let it mix and mix and mix. If you just lash water in till it looks right but not properly mixed then it dries out to quick.

We have an en-suite with a corridor past built in wardrobes/dressing area and would not be without it, I am yet to wire it but when staying in a hotel last year the bathroom had a movement sensor which switched a low level light on for nocturnal use without trying to find the light or having a bright light come on, it’s on my extensive “to do list”.

We have an ensuite but I could quite happily live without one. I think buyers would expect an ensuite these days but just because you have one doesn't mean you have to use it.

Luminous, semaphore version of Bernie the Bolt. And a shattaf for fun.

Nope - MVHR. Every modern low energy build should have one. Though if you are very sensitive to noise you may wish to add an inline noise attenuator in the ducting. Whatever takes your fancy Movement sensor activated lighting in circulation areas and bathrooms, together with low-level dim lights will take care of these and improve your safety. We used fire doors on all internal doors. Just be aware you will require a gap under the door for MVHR so some noise leakage is inevitable, in our house the only obtrusive noise is the shower. Cistern is in-wall and quiet, bath fills down the bath wall so no splashing noise. If you woke early and wanted a shower you could always use another one? I guess I am suggesting that an ensuite is a bonus, especially if you are moving away from the traditional 3-bed-semi approach. Modern buyers tend to expect this, so it may have an impact when you come to sell. I have seen this mentioned somewhere before, and I guess if you are tight on space or money and need to make choices then reducing number of bathrooms is one way to increase space in bedrooms or cut the build cost. But if you have the space and money then why not - don't get it.

Thinking laterally like Dr de Bono from the other end. So no problem then. You will have already left the house and will not be disturb by the swearing. 40 pairs of earplugs for 4.86. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Laser-Lite-Ear-Plugs-Honeywell/dp/B018RIA44S/ref=asc_df_B018RIA44S (So you have something to use even if you are still in the house.)

Even relatively modest houses often have a master en suite nowadays. If there is space for one then you really should fit one. I made the doors to en suite fire rated doors which are heavier to reduce noise transfer. The funny thing is our master en suite doesn't have a door at all and TBH if my wife is running a bath the noise is annoying but I don't notice anything else. All our WCs use in wall cisterns, they are vastly quieter than open cisterns and you basically cannot hear them. Similarly with MVHR you do not have annoying noisy extractor fans. Other things you can do are to make sure that anything noisy doesn't share a wall with the bedroom and try and put the door round a corner so it doesn't face the bed. But it is unlikely someone will be having a bath or s shower when you are sleeping unless you and your partner keep very different hours. I have never had steam or smells from an en suite as an issue ever in a house.

We have our ES coming off the dressing room. So two doors between ES and bed.

Put a dressing room at 90 degrees to the entrance to the en-suite and enter the en-suite through that - it will create a sound break and a decent wall build up will stop any residual flanking sound.

We get zero smells, steam etc from our en suite, and very little noise (flushing the loo in the middle of the night is barely audible in the bedroom). The key to making this work was as @ragg987 mentions above, having the MVHR boost controlled with a humidity sensor, plus having ventilation directly to the loo itself (as discussed in this thread: https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/11115-loo-odour-extraction-system-update/). It also helps to fit a heavy door between the bedroom and en suite, I think. I'm sure that much of the noise reduction comes from having a fairly hefty door (ours weighs around 40kg).

Depends on your price point. Many buyers with a family insist on s en-suite. A small dressing room between the bedroom and en-suite would solve the issues you mention.

Ensuite does not equate to bathroom noises steam and smells. Keeping the door shut and having a MVHR extract in the bathroom will take care of both aspects. Having a humidity sensor in the bathroom to boost the fan speed helps too. Other factors for ensuite are probably more important, e.g. number of bedrooms, occupants and number of bathrooms and toilets they will have access to.

If you use the Everbuild Integral Waterproofer it is also a deaerator so less air bubbles get formed in the mix that need tamping out. I was going to suggest he attacks it in two hits but couldn't face writing another diatribe...

I’d normally board the wall and ceiling first Then use 75 x 25 batons horizontal Butted up tight against the ceiling and wall This way will help you make accurate cuts on your slope Always put the uncut edge of the Pb to the top This will give who ever skims it a clean line to skim down to As there is always a bit of undulation on the trusses

So... I would just use cut a piece of 25mm thick insulation(or the depth of your battens) about 6” wide and just fit between the battens at the top and bottoms of each gap. Quick and simple and will take the spring out of the corner joints.

I'd first cut a fillet of pir to go along the top and infill (or gun foam) where the sloping board meets the ceiling. I can see a gap! ? I'd do horizontal battens top and bottom then at 400 ctrs on the rafters. You want to support where the slope end's boards meet the wall & ceiling and back up the joint tape/scrim. Even then you might be wanting a flexible filler later on if you get any cracks.

I did a custom setup as have most here. My pipes were installed by warmafloor but the setup and control is all custom designed and installed.

Just keep mixing till they are full. If you need to buy another few bags of sand and cement then buy them, finish this part and move onto the next task.

I'm pretty sure that installers have yet to pick up on this. AFAIK, it's probably only members of this forum that have discovered that floor cooling can be pretty effective in hot weather. Perhaps we're pioneers, in which case I suspect we might be collectively recognised as such when installers catch up with some of the things we are doing, in years to come.

Most ASHPs can cool as well as heat. They normally use the cooling function to defrost, so it's built-in. The manufacturers may not openly advertise the fact that their units cool as well as heat, but several of us have found that it works surprisingly well. I may have been one of the first to try this, with our re-badged Carrier ASHP (it has a Glowworm badge, but was also sold with a Kingspan badge, amongst others). I found it to work very well, so adapted our control system to include cooling (just meant adding a cooling room thermostat, really.