Leaderboard
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/30/17 in all areas
-
He's probably using a trough .... Roofers labourer turned up last week drinking that Weetabix and milk in a bottle .. aka baby food .... It right near put me off my bacon, egg and sausage cob...2 points
-
2 points
-
Hello to everybody.........first thing is have to put me 'ands up to being a lurker! for quite some time. My nick is a joke as one of my friends is a plumber. This place is so informative so many thanks to the posters. I do have a plot which is in a conservation area and several TPO's. It's an ancient sandstone quarry approx 800 sq mtr, a bowl so not all the land is usable. It is taking quite a long time (I have had the plot for 16 months) because I live 300 miles away. I have planning for a two and a half storey house which does not conform to the local surroundings, (the council OKed it as it is obscured by trees along the boundry with the road) I am trying to get my application for tree removal within the plot passed so I get a soil/ground survey carried out. I have a structural engineer onboard so as soon as I can get a survey done I can get cracking with organising foundations etc.. I am going down the SIPs route, not passive but energy efficient etc. I hope to do a lot myself to save some loot. Well that's all for now folks....abuse gladly accepted1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
That one was a 2000mm x 850mm shower area ( mosiac tiled ) and the glass was iirc 1400mm long. Aluminium wall profile can be seen in the second pic, but I always bond the glass straight down to the tiled floor with clear CT1 as bottom channels look rough as toast and harbour water, grot and worse. Point being, you don't need anything complicated, but you do need to do a good job of fitting the screen. Masking tape either side of where the glass will hit the floor / tray, smear a bit of CT1 along the 1000mm long run and rub it in and get some adhesion going, then apply a generous 10-15mm bead of CT1 along the bit you just smeared ready to drop ( lol ) the glass down onto. Two man job tbh, but I have done them on my own when I have had to. Set the glass down gently and let it displace the CT1. Clean off the excess with wet wipes and multisolve spray, the bit you'll love the most More on that when you get to that stage1 point
-
Ditto went for Internorm. The product quality is great with good air tightness but we did have issues with order lead time due to factory shut down in summer. However we wouldn't buy inward opening windows again. Daft idea. If it rains and you've left the window on tilt the rain can get in if the direction is wrong. You can't put anything on the window cill cos it gets knocked off when you open it. And there is no window stay so a little puff of wind and it blows fully open. Be wary if you want a light colour clad as the drain caps to handle the rain that gets in the frame are black unless hand painted. while giving a reassuring clunk when closing this clunk is rather loud in the middle of the night.1 point
-
Slacker! Seriously that roof looks the business. Slap up meal, I hope you let her go large!1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
Not if you keep chomping the cheese coated stakes mate Sound dangerously good, but I'm on a bit of a diet thing at the mo. Kicked breakfasts into touch in favour of granola "It's granola!" , still beats the shit out of muesli . They should feed prisoners on muesli, and watch the crime rates drop over night.1 point
-
Thanks for all the replies on this. Cage rattled and response received, let's see what happens next!1 point
-
That looks the bollocks mate. What's the little window? A light tunnel? ( taken the labourer missus for a slap up meal yet ).1 point
-
1 point
-
Well, the SIPs took 2 weeks to do - weather was absolutely foul at times and the guys just kept working although even their waterproofs were utterly soaked through. Normally they'd expect to take a week, but our large dormers complicated matters and they finished around lunchtime on the second Friday. I would say one thing to bear in mind with the erection costs is that you'll get a quote, but then you have to supply a 10Kva generator and a (massive - forget using a farm one) telehandler and in our case a crane for them, so with loo facilities too etc. your easy looking at another £2k on top of that quote. Unfortunately our new BC guy is proving extremely enthusiastic and has now decided that he thinks SIPs shrink and is demanding evidence from me to the contrary (firstly he was querying whether SIPs are an "approved" building method!) - I'm not sure where he's going with this - he is picking up also the tiniest inconsequential things. (I have explained to him the physics of OSB) I have a sneaking suspicion he is new to the role. I've pointed him at Kingspans technical services suggesting he is more likely to get a detailed response than I am. I do hope things change and he gets a little more practical. The bottom photograph is how far away I had to go to get the whole crane in the photo!1 point
-
I'm assuming you can't get the OAP discount combined with tradepoint card?1 point
-
I had Amtico laid in my bathroom and ensuite. I had glued and screwed, at 100mm centres, 10mm marine ply to the 22mm Caberboard and filled and sanded the screw holes and joints. The fitter still went over it with a compound saying it needed to be perfectly flat to do a good job!1 point
-
1 point
-
Hi Ferdinand, that's the stuff. Appreciate we can get it cheaper but we've been trying to spread the spend round a few local suppliers and 17.50 is a decent chunk under 22.50 which seems to be the going rate for a single on the shelf. The other challenge is its a 90mins round trip to wickes, local supplies is a mile away! Nick, big spud towers is fairly monochrome to allow the views to shine through and to give a neutral background to our eclectic furniture... I'm after a simple white finish all over and I like the chalky finish. (It's an old industrial site) good thing is as you say it covers anything and blends in a treat so we'll just touch up on occasion!1 point
-
Would a hose union back plate ever see use in this, a bathroom application? Thinking ready soldered joint, just put a bend in the copper. http://www.screwfix.com/p/hose-union-back-plate-mm/564151 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point