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Make a little scale model from plastacine and drop into a bucket of water...

I was about to write 'time flies by with too little progress to show for it' and then realised that was exactly what I said last time! Anyway, since the last update, I have battened out the walls and fitted the first layer of larch cladding on the gables. There was a fair bit of head scratching and working out how the detailing around the windows etc was going to work out before I could get on with the battens. The larch also had to be treated with preservative oil- this will be an ongoing task but it should help keep the wood from looking faded and neglected (even though I gather that look is fashionable for some reason). Another overly time consuming task has been the detailing around the fascia and soffit boards. These things are very easy to draw up on Sketchup but in real life it is much harder to ensure that things are square and level. What I have ended up doing is making up the four barge boards and fitting these, then running string lines between them. I have no idea if this is normal practice but it at least ensures that these highly visible parts of the roof line are symmetrical and match up with each other. On the roof, the battens are ready for the arrival of the corrugated steel sheeting- unfortunately I wasted time chasing some tantalising prices from suppliers further south, which fell down due to delivery costs, and when I eventually ordered from my local BM I was into the Christmas shut down period. Inside the house, I am absolutely delighted to be able to say that ALL of the insulation is complete now. I have 150mm rockwool between rafters and studs, and 50mm of Kingspan over the studs, with 100mm over the rafters. Today's job is to take advantage of the howling gale outside to identify any leakage paths and finish the foaming up between the boards. A tedious task but one that should help me achieve a high airtightness level. The vapour barrier will then go on top to provide the final airtight layer. I have also taken delivery of my stove- a Burley Springdale 3kw model. This is the third woodburner that I have bought (I installed one ine ach of my previous two houses) and it is a real step up in terms of design and built quality. The stove is 100% room sealed, with a single intake that draws from an external duct. The firebox is fully lined in vermiculite blocks, even on the top and bottom, to ensure the hottest and therefore most efficient burn possible. Finally, a stainless steel mesh at the top of the stove acts as a soot catcher to burn off any particulates. It's an impressive piece of kit and I can't wait to get it fired up.

It's what most estate agents call "link detached". Yes it's not truly detached, but there are no habitable rooms adjoining, so you still get most of the major benefit of a detached house, not being able to hear your neighbours, and not having to worry if you play your hi fi too loud. But if both extended / converted so there were habitable rooms adjoining, it would definitely be classed as semi detached and worth less.

@Ferdinand & the brickmaker, what do you think?

If everyone does it, it'll look like one long terrace!

Having done a SIPs extension, I would consider that...as you indeed are. Quicker to erect, cheaper (esp if you put the panels up yourself), and potentially better insulated. It will also reduce weight on your footings. It may be worth digging down to your footings to see what the situation is with your footings/foundation.

You may find the party wall in the garage isn't load bearing - not unusual for them to just be block work on slab. That would then mean you would need to replace the wall and its foundations unless you used a steel or two from front to back. To maximise the space have you considered using brick slips as a skin ..?

@Dudda THe membrane surely needs to be on the warm side of your insulation, otherwise you will have a risk of condensation when your humid inside air meets the cold watertight- I assume - barrier. SO fixing screws breaching the membrane should not be an issue ... it goes on afterwards. Unless I have misunderstood something. For fixing studs I use these in the relevant size: http://www.screwfix.com/p/easydrive-countersunk-concrete-screws-7-5-x-50mm-100-pack/1066H?kpid=1066H&cm_mmc=Google-_-Product Listing Ads-_-Sales Tracking-_-sales tracking url&gclid=CPj-wdLJvNECFQeNGwodJusA9 Typically they need 30-40mm in the wall. The method is 1 Use a multi material drill but such as a Bosch Multi construction ones from Screwfix. Very good in the small set but check it is long enough for your screws (as the actress said to the bishop). 2 Pre drill stud if desired. 3 Hold stud against wall, and drill hole in wall through hole in stud using same drill. 4 Switch to impact driver and screw Concrete Screw into wall. Ferdinand

NWSD - Now we're suckin' diesel

Really? I would have thought the opposite

Still leaves some grey areas but sheds more light on the issue with specific separation on the adoption of CDM for commercial building and that of a self-builder like most of us here. I am still confused a little and concerned enough to consult further with some personal contacts in NHBC that I have who have and do deal with H&S.