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It sounds as if a one day Boot Camp type course (or a few hours paid mentoring) might be a wise investment. Ferdinand

I've seen one manufacturer (can't remember which one) that gave a much longer guarantee on treated softwood windows than they did on hardwood. I think the longevity of windows is as much (and maybe more) down to the detailing, installation & finish as the type of wood. I quite like the idea of dry-glazed windows with a ventilated bottom bead over a bottom rail cut at an angle (to drain water away).

From my experience so far, also think about briefing contractors (we have a sheet that they sign) as regards H&S when they come on site, procedures, where the toilets are, hand washing, water, PPE, and first aid, It also has our contact numbers on it and details of what our insurance does and does not cover, as well as parking arrangements - our site is urban and awkward. I also get all our contractors to sign a detailed contract with us - I don't think this is a principal contractor thing, but is useful legally in case of dispute and makes sure that we all know where we stand. I have spare PPE on site for visitors, including hi-viz, hard hats, ear and eye protection as well as a first aid kit. I believe you are also legally required to provide fresh, clean drinking water, somewhere to rest/shelter and toilet/handwashing facilities. I also keep the full H&S file on site with all the signed briefing sheets in it, the plan and copies of all our insurance. Also - who is your principal designer? This is a very important role and MUST be designated. Good luck - it's an admin nightmare! Like building a house isn't hard enough ....

For a start, make sure your self build policy includes employers liability. Mine (from buildstore) does and the builders I contracted to build the shell wanted to see that certificate.

Yeh look up egger p5 online OP. Looks like it has been used with right glue aswell. There are 2 types 1 with film as said above but both are waterproof. Give it a good scrape down now. Run your planer or sand any joints which you feel are protruding excessively. I'd of thought it will be ok.

It's all about planning. you need to be at least 2-3 steps ahead each stage of the build. So basically you have what ever materials ordered up with a delivery date a day or two before they needed incase they are late plus what trade doing the job booked in. Phone a week before they are arrive to double check all is still ok and then maybe a day or two again. Have somewhere to unload the deliveries and somewhere to store them. And double check the delivery docket before you sign it. Get yourself a big calendar wall chart and pin it somewhere that you will see it everyday, not the bedroom ceiling!! Fill this in with the dates of deliveries and when you expect to be moving onto the next stage of each build. Write it all in as you will get caught out somewhere along the line and be paying for some trade to stand there while you go and collect whatever you have forgot. Above all don't get too stressed out over things when they go wrong.

Is that usual? None of the architects we spoke to require a QS to price the build. They nominally used a percentage, but it was based on an informal build cost estimate, usually agreed in advance (especially where the architect isn't involved beyond the design stages). The estimate is at least partly based on the fact that you'll have given the architect your budget in advance anyway, but will necessarily be hugely rough given how hard it is to do a real estimate anyway.

4 things really, the lower storage temperature (50°C rather than 65°C+), limiting the time that it recharges on E7 to a couple of hours before the period ends (mine is strange as it comes on for an hour, off for an hour, then on for 6 hours, then off again at 7AM), using the water as soon as it is hot, rather than wait till it has cooled a bit, so morning bathing for me, and finally, loads of extra insulation. This was the hard bit, but I basically lined the airing cupboard with 100 mm of Celotex, including the door. Then filled in the corners between the cylinder and the boards with Rockwool. No a pretty job, and I was unable to insulate below the cylinder, and there is still a gap at the back where it is hard up against the wall, and where the cable goes to the immersion heater. It would be easy to design right on a new build, harder as a retro fit. This is one advantage of the Sunamp, it is smaller and already well insulated, so replacing an existing cylinder becomes an easier job.

Could you maybe post a couple of images, Peter?

You are my father in law and I claim my £5. I hate negotiating more than just about anything else in the world.

My installation was done by my builder, if I were do do it again I would employ a specialist. Most of the ducts were semi-rigid so that was fine, rigid ones were not simple to get done. One large unit is not always going to be more energy efficient than 2 smaller ones. With 1 unit you may end up pushing air through very long ducts and will need a higher fan speed to overcome the increased resistance, whereas 2 smaller units could mean positioning each for shorter runs and reduced fan speed. (e.g. closer to either end of a long house). I have no practical experience with 2 units, but would be concerned on how to balance the 2 given the house is a single volume. Also you have 2 inlets and outlets to take care of.

As I read it this would be enough '...the digging of a trench which is to contain the foundations, or part of the foundations, of a building;...' (The Town and Country Planning Act 1990) Get yer shovel out.......