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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/16/16 in all areas
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Would anyone be so kind as to post up a photo showing their MVHR installation? I'm trying to visualise how much space I'll need to allow for the unit, distribution boxes and ducting so that I know how much space I have left over for everything else. Thanks in advance1 point
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The main potential issue for me is that if there are enough objections, it gets called into committee. While you should, in theory, not be any worse off, I suspect it'll be easier, cheaper and less stressful if you don't get the planning committee involved. If they get it wrong, you have to appeal, which is more money and time, even if you're in the right. So basically I'm all for reducing objections as a general principle. I posted something on this general point in the last few weeks. I'll see if I can dig it out over the weekend, but the essence of it was to be careful about being too open with your neighbours about your plans. The last thing you want to do is try and keep everyone happy by listening to their feedback on your detailed plans, then realise it's literally impossible to keep everyone happy because they all want different things. Then you've by definition seriously annoyed one or more of them by not implementing the feedback you asked them for, so they object. I think it's better to gradually get them used to the idea of development in a social context, then slowly allow the general to become more specific over time. By the time you submit your planning application, everyone around you more or less knows what's coming and there are no surprises. We got a bit lucky, but this was the approach we took and we had no objections to our plans to knock down a small bungalow and build a large, very modern two storey house with three times the floor area!1 point
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Also it's how all the more complex folk wire their intelligent lighting systems. All lights run back to one location and switched accordingly by a multi-channel dimmer / switching pack. . If there is a bedroom, with one light and one or two switches ( wall + bedside ) then maybe overkill for that but for multiple lights in a given area ( liv / dine combined open space ) then deffo a good idea imo.1 point
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It's the way it was always done in the 1960's, known as the spider method. There is nothing wrong with it apart from you have to put the junction box somewhere accessible. The wiring regs don't specify how to wire a lighting circuit so still perfectly legal. Make sure you label everything and do all your switch drops from the junction box in 3 core & earth in case that switch is ever used for 2 way switching, and label every cable as it enters the jnction box, a sharpie pen is good.1 point
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How long then can you leave green plasterboard outside, stacked against a wall but well covered with tarps whilst at the same time well ventilated? Also on battens to keep it off the deck. A bloke I know bought his last month but hasn't yet got it on the walls.....1 point
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So, here's my thinking so far. Ducting to/from the house is through the MBC slab electric (meter cabinet is by the plot boundary) 2 x 110mm duct from cabinet to plant room (feed and return) 63mm duct from cabinet to garage 63mm duct from cabinet (spare) ???mm from house to garden for lighting and power ???mm to the kitchen island (25mm rigid polyduct?) water 63mm duct from main to house ???mm from ??? to garden - not sure where to route this from. Should it come from the house or can it be teed off before the feed enters the house? ???mm from ??? to garage - not sure where to route this from. Should it come from the house or can it be teed off before the feed enters the house? BT duct 54 to plant room want to also route ethernet from house to garage, but not sure how best to do this without another duct. Are there tee pieces for duct 54? Misc duct ??? for coax cable from aerial at bottom of garden Anyone care to fill in the blanks and suggest areas I've overlooked?1 point
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I'll dig out a few pics and post them up. There have been quite a few posts already on this but the pinch point will be where the flex ducts come back to the distribution boxes - I had a 14 port intake and same for extract and it was very busy - there really was only one place (plant room ceiling) where they could go and also the 180mm duct would not go very far beyond the plant room either. The min bend radius of the flexi ducts can become the key restriction in getting multiple ducts to a given location once they start to overlap, it gets more and more challenging to get the next pipe in. Every MVHR installation should have a swear box, will soon help pay for the build.1 point
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Tesco sell thin bleach very cheap. I dilute it 50/50 with water and put it in a Hozelock plant sprayer. Use it regularly in the shower and it stops mould forming on grout/silicon. Don't use a sprayer with brass parts or the bleach will corrode it.1 point
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Yup and we are another BPC customer. Happy with everything so far but we are just about to start boarding out internally, so don't plan to do final commissioning for another 3 months.1 point
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IMO, this is a case of the regs being OTT and way out of line with 95% of the current build stock. OK, I think that most of us would see the sense in having good acoustic insulation between attached dwellings, but why have high levels of acoustic separation as a requirement within a dwelling. Our current farmhouse has its original 300 year-old old beams and elm floor boards. We replaced the plaster and lathe between the beams by battening and plasterboard, but when you are sitting in our living room, you can hear any guests in the bedroom above fart (let alone other activities). We've got PosiJoists and 50mm Rockwool plus an extra layer around the MVHR ducting in our new build which I think is a sensible compromise.1 point
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When you have kids you need to be able to hear them when they are upstairs. As the moment the noise stops you just know some ones up to no good.1 point
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Hi Gary. I think the feedback so far has spoken for itself, so good to have you on board as a contributor. If your at all unsure of the "do's and dont's" please feel free to PM one of the staff, but were certainly the better for new, genuine members Prepare to have your brain picked Nick.1 point
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Welcome Gary, Looking forward to the benefit of your advice and experience. All I can say is that if you are as helpful here as you were when I was a potential customer (providing me with a layout plan and air flow calculations before I had even committed to buying), it will be great for everyone.1 point
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Hi Gary, Good to have you on board! Its a great place to share knowledge and even better when we have some domain experts at hand. Cheers Damian1 point
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Welcome Gary, just about to commission the system I bought from you back in Jan and installed in Feb/March1 point
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Hi Gary, it's been a few years since we met. I think I was the one of the first to cross your door over three years ago as the day we met you where only moving in to your new offices and couldn't find anything to show us. Welcome aboard I am sure one of the mods will be along to explain the rules around advertising your own goods on the forum.1 point
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85sqm @150mm centres is around 550m of pipe give or take so it would be 5 circuits. They can can all be linked together as one back at where you want the manifold if it's just for shoving heat around but they should be reasonably similar in length.1 point
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