Eye watering cost of Oak

[dpmiller]

Scumble?

[Stones]

If still considering using flooring, 2200 mm lengths available

 

Random search : https://www.ukflooringdirect.co.uk/engineered-wood-flooring-galleria-professional-multiply-oak-220mm-brushed-oiled

[scottishjohn]

 you could veneer the MDF.

 www.amazon.co.uk/Iron-Pre-Glued-Veneer-2500mm-300mm/dp/B00BRVQRB2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550661986&sr=8-4&keywords=oak+veneer+sheets

[Simplysimon]

10 hours ago, scottishjohn said:

 you could veneer the MDF.

 www.amazon.co.uk/Iron-Pre-Glued-Veneer-2500mm-300mm/dp/B00BRVQRB2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1550661986&sr=8-4&keywords=oak+veneer+sheets

just buy veneered mdf, soooo much easier

[ProDave]

So I had some spare time this morning and did the bare bones of a "floorboard" oak door frame

 

 

Here is the detail of "that join" near the bottom:

 

 

We are now "evaluating" it before deciding whether to continue, and waiting for the joiner to visit and see if he ha any better ideas.

[Declan52]

Looks dead on.  By the time you put a door stop on it there won't be much to see of the join. 

[Oz07]

That's passable tbf! For me it's either that or redwood and painted. Anything with a thin veneer such as ply is asking for trouble in such a high traffic location

[ProDave]

While waiting to decide how to move forwards, I briefly thought I had found a solution.

 

I noticed in the new Howdens catalogue they stock Oak veneered door  frames. I am sure they were not in the previous catalogue.  So I called in for some prices.

 

Bearing in mind some I would need to double up to get the thickness, so the price for 14 door frames was...............

 

 

 

 

 

 

£700 plus VAT.

 

Yes dearer to buy an oak veneered door frame than to buy the solid planed oak and make one.

 

 

[Oz07]

50 quid a lining what's a whitewood one now 15? You could veneer your own I've done it before. However longevity would worry me with veneer

[ProDave]

The decision has been made to proceed with the "floorboard" door liners.  I have enough wood for the upstairs ones, with the joint at the bottom.  The compromise is I will try and source a wider door stop so less of the underlying door liner is actually visible.

 

So far 4 of them done, 2 more to go.

 

For cutting them to width, the first one I just planed, but found it hard to get a straight finish.

 

Since then I have been cutting them with the circular saw, as a pair with both good faces together and using my aluminium rail as a guide.  The resultant cut edge is clean and square and just needs a little sanding.

 

 

 

I still need to source some 2100 by 180mm oak floor planks for the downstairs door frames.

[ProDave]

Just an update to this.

 

I had enough left over floorboards to make the 6 upstairs door liners (with a joint at the bottom of each)

 

After a long wait, the joiner came this week to hang all the upstairs doors (he is a busy man)

 

 

 

 

 

A late edit. this is how they ended up with door stops and architraves

 

 

No door stops or architrave yet, that will have to wait a bit.

[Tennentslager]

Photos don’t do it justice @ProDave give us some better ones because this is a good route for others

[ProDave]

DIY OAK door frames MK2:

 

The upstairs ones based on engineered oak floor boards ended up good, apart from "that join"  Try as I might I could not find any engineered floor boards long enough to not need a join, and it has been decreed there will be no join in the downstairs door frames.

 

I looked at buying planed oak and making my own, but it is hard finding it large enough and the cost, and the chance of it warping or cracking.

 

In the mean time I bought strips of 12mm by 70mm solid planed oak for the door stops, and got experimenting with the offcuts. And came up with this:

 

 

First build a "door frame" out of 22mm chipboard making it 24mm over size in width and 12mm over size in height.

 

Then glue and screw (where possible) a 70mm by 12mm strip of planed oak each side.

 

In this case the door will be fixed to the right hand of the two strips of oak.

 

Then when the door has been hung, a third strip of planed oak will be fitted (depicted here by the short strip) to bridge the gap and act as the door stop.

 

I am awaiting the joiner to fit the first door and try this.  If it works I have 2 more to make each for a double door set.

[joe90]

Cracking job, well done, yes Oak is expensive (I know I made a dining table and got the oak at trade price but still more than I expected)

[ProDave]

Well after what seems forever, the doors are finally finshed.

 

My home made Oak door frames as described above worked well, but it took ages sourcing enough Oak from the builders merchant to complete them all.  They were only receiving small batches with several weeks wait before they could get any more.

 

Then having completed the frames, I tried to contact my trusted joiner to get him to hang the doors, but he was not answering his phone or answering texts, so I hope he is okay.  In desperation I hung them all myself, which is not a job I enjoy or am particularly good at, but needs must.

 

 

The Architraves and skirting are Howdens Oak veneered MDF, cunningly sold in lengths just too short to get 2 full uprights from, hence the use of corner blocks to make the lengths needed slightly shorter.

[Dave Jones]

whats that offcut hanging out the ceiling ?!!

[joe90]

3 minutes ago, Dave Jones said:

whats that offcut hanging out the ceiling ?!!

Landing half newel post?   ( I ave one as well). Lovely job @ProDave well done (your wasted being an electrician ?)

Edited November 20, 2020 by joe90

[ProDave]

bottom of the newel post for the stair landing.

[Dave Jones]

1 minute ago, ProDave said:

bottom of the newel post for the stair landing.

 

hehe i know. chop the fecker off so it doesnt spoil the ceiling line. 

[recoveringbuilder]

You’ve made a nice job , love the doors and my hubby insisted on corner blocks he doesn’t think it looks finished off properly without them!

[ToughButterCup]

Dave, that's really nice. I should guess that a sustantial part of the cost was caused by the curved detail, and I bet that glass is bevelled - not cheap either. 

Well done. 

 

Now, off to fetch a bit of old MDF for a loo door. She's on the war path.....? Can't imagine why.....

[ProDave]

That's what happens when you let SWMBO see a door catalogue.  She didn't want the cheap TP oak doors with straight "planks"  She wanted glazed and took a liking to these (upstairs are the same style but solid)  they are XL Joinery doors a little over £200 each, but they were much cheaper on line than any of the local merchants could offer them for.

[Oz07]

Prefinished I take it. 

Also with the arc not being long enough I presume you are using metric size doors? 2040+10+70 2120mm with no allowance for clearance at the bottom. Lengths 4.2. So wasteful why don't they sell them in 4.5s. 

 

Would the equivilant imperial sized door have been cheaper?

[Oz07]

Good job btw

[ProDave]

No they were not pre finished.  They didn't offer the 2040 doors in pre finished, so those are 2 coats of Osmo door oil,  I had to contact XL joinery because the first words in the instructions was "Do not oil" but they said they are happy with Osmo oil.  At least that means everything is bare Oak and 2 coats of Osmo.

 

Yes imperial doors would have been slightly cheaper, but there would have been much greater choice, and the arc's would have done 2 imperial lengths.  All the corner blocks were cut planed and sanded from a strip of larger planed Oak.