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Gate Pillars


Onoff

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I'm actually thinking about infilling my gate pillars with flints! It might even start tomorrow! More questions I'm mulling, any input appreciated:

 

- A 5:1:1/2 sand/cement/hydrated lime (as the bag above) mix is the plan

 

- What sand, ordinary "orange" builder's sand? At least that might match the brick pillar mortar joints. Reading back on the thread there's talk of silver sand...not sure I'll get it in Wickes.

 

- Plan is to do a couple of mixes and see what colour it dries. Say a soft sand mix and whatever "white" sand I can get tomorrow morning.

 

- Thinking to mix in a bucket with the Aldi paddle mixer?

 

- Is the aim to fill the depth of the recess with as much flint, front to back, or can I "get away with" a thin piece of flint with lots of mortar behind? Thinking the mortar should really encapsulate the flint rather relying on trying to stick the flint to the mortar. I'm thinking thin slivers might detach and fall out more easily? 

 

- I've still not mastered knapping! ?

 

- Undecided on a stainless trim around each panel.

 

Saying all that I've to first make a stainless surround for the video intercom that'll be inset and also to resin in stainless studs to mount the coach lanterns. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

By more thoughts? Comment off another forum not to use any OPC:

 

Hydrated lime will be fine for that job, use a stiff mix using sharp grit sand around 2:1. For a yellower look add some builders sand.

Depending on exposure, lime will weather off over time and leave the grit showing if you avoid trowelling the joints smooth, use the edge of your trowel and just rake them.

Put a board across the front and place flints against it to keep them from drooping, fill all at the back and around each flint.

Do both all panels at the same time, alternating between them.

By the end of the day, they will have gone off enough to remove the board and strike off the excess mortar.

Lightly brush any nibs off the next day, but not too hard.

Move boards up and repeat, by the time you reach the top course you will have got the hang of it and be able to place them in freehand.

Most important thing it not to rush, nothing worse than watching it all flop onto the ground cos it's too wet to support the next course.

It wouldn't hurt to use a couple of stainless screw in ties in each panel.

Size the flints in proportion to the panels, you only need small ones for that, place them touching, as the joints get wider towards the front.

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  • 2 weeks later...

@PeterW

 

 

Morning, just mulling my pillar caps and what to get to fill my mould up before a trip to Selco for materials.

 

You I think were trying to match Yorkstone. Was that the reason for the white cement and lime?

 

The washed plasterer's sand as the aggregate, I presume that was to achieve a fine surface finish and sharp edge detailing?

 

I'm looking at doing black pillar caps using dye. The thought is that it's in keeping with the black gates and the whole Gothic esque final look we want.

 

In that case is is necessary to use white cement or lime? Was the lime there for colouring?

 

I was thus thinking 4 of washed plastering sand, 1 of OPC and the 1/2 lime if necessary if it does anything for the mix other than colour.

 

Thanks

 

 

 

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@Onoff correct on all counts. I wanted a stone / cream finish and the lime also made it compact slightly better. I used an SDS drill just pushed on to the boxing to get it to vibrate the bubbles up to the top. 

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7 minutes ago, PeterW said:

@Onoff correct on all counts. I wanted a stone / cream finish and the lime also made it compact slightly better.

 

 

Do you think this might soften the final set hardness of the casting?

 

8 minutes ago, PeterW said:

I used an SDS drill just pushed on to the boxing to get it to vibrate the bubbles up to the top. 

 

 

With the drill set to hammer action?

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2 minutes ago, epsilonGreedy said:

 

Do you think this might soften the final set hardness of the casting?

 

 

With the drill set to hammer action?


possibly slightly softer but not noticed any issues. And yes, hammer and a blunt chisel bit ..!!

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1 minute ago, PeterW said:

possibly slightly softer but not noticed any issues.

 

 

I suspect the finish you achieved it superior to commodity cast cills?

 

One problem with standard cills is that the rough surface accommodates algae growth as the years tick by. 

 

4 minutes ago, PeterW said:

And yes, hammer and a blunt chisel bit ..!!

 

 

You anticipated my follow-up idiot question!

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3 hours ago, PeterW said:

@Onoff correct on all counts. I wanted a stone / cream finish and the lime also made it compact slightly better. I used an SDS drill just pushed on to the boxing to get it to vibrate the bubbles up to the top. 

 

Just been and bought plastering sand, black mortar tone, and the integral waterproofer I favour that incorporates a deaerator.

Couldn't get any cement white or OPC for love nor money. In line with the mortar shortage I've been reading about maybe.

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1 minute ago, Onoff said:

Still no bloody cement in Wickes! ?

 

At this rate I might have to take my chances on a bag of old stuff I have here.

 

 

 

There was some 2 years ago when this thread started ???

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7 minutes ago, Onoff said:

Still no bloody cement in Wickes! ?

 

At this rate I might have to take my chances on a bag of old stuff I have here.

 

 

I have 8 bags of OPC that might be for sale. I believe the current exchange rate is 1 Bitcoin per 25Kg bag.

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Just now, PeterW said:

Remember the great cement crash of ‘21 ... something to tell the grandchildren while we wait for the first train of HS2 to run .... ?

 

The BiL worked on the Chunnel. Bagged cement a day out of date was binned. Let's say a lot came home...

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Finished my capstone mould...I guess. For tomorrow we cast!

Made up a square of 15mm copper to give a drip recess.

IMG_20210530_131251992.thumb.jpg.f36fa74c34fef775420b03a588ecd145.jpg

Currently got the copper glued to the timber with some blobs of CT1 and cable tied on whilst it sets:

IMG_20210530_181550441.thumb.jpg.78ff93bf51db58aaf63c4b0760d2a9c2.jpg

I'm going to put a square of galv mesh in halfway through the pour. Got one piece of 25x25x2.5 enough for just one cap.  Then some 12.5x12.5x1.5, enough for two. Not sure if the smaller mesh will be strong enough?

IMG_20210530_182318783.thumb.jpg.526c64f72d53737ea535f6fe60611fe3.jpg

I was going to line the mould with say plastic sheet DPM. Just couldn't get it flat. Even tried ironing it with SWMBO's iron. I did put a fillet of silicone on all the internal edges and took it off with a 5mm radius Cramer Fugi tool. Guess I'll just brush the internal faces with vegetable oil? Seems preferable to engine oil etc. Another thought was lining it with duct tape.

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9 minutes ago, TonyT said:

Mould oil/release oil is available in diy shops.

 

ive seen others use diesel?

 

The write up for this says it can be used as a release agent.

 

https://www.toolstation.com/action-can-dry-ptfe/p57723?

 

Tbh I like the idea of vegetable oil, a bit more environmentally friendly etc. Once the caps are on I imagine it'll just degrade and wash off.

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